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Post subject: Korean plywood Squire II strat.
Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 2:16 pm
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I was at a local pawn shop and the manager is a guitar nut, like me, he called my attention to a battered Korean Squire II. The guitar had a plywood body and somewhat different electronics set up than a standard strat or current squire strat. The guitar was junk, however his purpose was to point out the beautiful maple neck, as pretty as any american standard of the shelf. I gave him the $70.00, but probaply should have worked him down a bit. It had the standard junk squire tuners, currently found on the Bullet series. I plan to install some Fender (Japanese made) vintage tuners and get a nice body for it.

It was the mis-match of the century. A plywood body and this wonderful maple neck.


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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 4:06 pm
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make sure you post lots of pictures. :D


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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 6:51 pm
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Nothing wrong with a plywood body. I had an E9 Squier II with a wonderful maple neck and ply body, it sounded amazing


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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:36 pm
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Did you sell that E9 Squier II on ebay? I think I may have it!


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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:36 pm
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morecowbell wrote:
Did you sell that E9 Squier II on ebay? I think I may have it!

Yes I did. Man if you had it I would gladly buy it back from you. I have regretted selling that thing for the longest, but money got tight.Looked like this:

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Post subject: IT"S LAMINATED HARDWOOD !!!!!!!!
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:29 pm
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NOT "plywood", IT's made of "LAMINATED HARDWOOD" ! ! ! !

I have a '90 Squier II Stratocaster HSS made of LAMINATED HARDWOOD (approx 13 layers) , it has "sustain for days" and "superb vintage Fender tone". This model performs just as well though I think better than the Indonesian made Deluxe Strat I just sold or the made in Mexico and China Squiers.

The LAMINATED HARDWOOD bodies are derided UNFAIRLY !!

They are often overlooked, highly under-rated and superior in construction to other Squier guitars. If you find one cheap, GRAB IT !!! You won't regret it for a moment.


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Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 11:32 am
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No, mine is black. Also, according to Fender customer service, Fender has never marketed any guitar with a plywood body. If you are looking in the body pockets for the pots and pickups, you will see what looks like layers. The routers can't cut deep enough in one pass, so they have to make a series of passes.


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Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:47 pm
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Found this on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT

Now that's an obvious plywood. To say laminated hardwood is just a glorified way of saying higher grade ply. Which it is.

But if you look at the pics, you'll see what can happen when you are dealing with ply. Look at the top horn where the strap button used to be. There are 2-gaping holes now. It's clear that the first button had ripped out, then the button was installed in another spot, which looks like it has been ripped out as well. Installing screws in the end-grain of ply isn't something that you'll get e very strong grab from in the first place. But now that body needs a major fix, and possibly a refinish for the whole body. keep in mind also that the trem claw screws will have to go into the end-grain as well. If the ply is weak in that spot, it wouldn't be too fun to deal with either.

I personally don't think having ply hurts the tone. I had a ply flying V once, and it was fine. It was bright, and it didn't seem to be any lighter than a Gibson V. But I was starting to have the same issue with the strap buttons myself (even though one was going through the face and not the end-grain).

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Post subject: Easy repair ! ! !
Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:51 pm
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I've repaired three LAMINATED HARDWOOD bodied Squiers recently all with strap button screw issues. It's one of the EASIEST repairs one can make and ALL players should learn how to do it. First get good quality wood glue and round toothpicks or small wooden dowels (hardware/home improvement stores). Protect area/finish/paint around screw hole with masking tape and paper (brown paper bag). Test fit the toothpicks then trim to length (bit longer than necessary) fill hole with wood glue then insert toothpicks or wooden dowel filling hole. You may need to drive toothpicks or dowels into hole using wooden mallet or wood block as "hammer". Avoid using "metal hammer" in case you miss. Allow to dry and harden overnight. Once dry snip toothpicks/wood dowel short with wire cutters, string cutter, nail trimmer, etc... and sand smooth.

If you have a snapped/sheared off hardened strap button screw as I did with my Squier II Stratocaster you may be able to remove screw with small set of needlenose pliers or little needlenose "Vise-Grips" by grabbing "stub" and backing screw out gently. You might have to do as I did and drill multiple holes directly alongside the hardened steel screw with a 1/16 or smaller drill bit using drill or Dremel tool. Work in a five star shaped pattern, setting drill bit directly alongside snapped screw drill slowly to avoid snapping drill bit. Once you've drilled approx 4-5 holes enough material may have been removed to allow you to grip "stub" and back screw out. Additionally the extra holes once drilled alongside the broken screw release "tension" allowing easier removal of broken screw.

Now you've got a hole larger than a toothpick, don't worry. You can either drill one hole encompassing all the previous holes you drilled to gain access to tip of broken screw and insert a small round wooden dowel coated with wood glue into hole where wood glue has been applied. Or you can fill all the holes by squeezing in wood glue then inserting/driving in toothpicks with wooden mallet/wood block then waiting overnight to trim and sand as in the above repair. I've found that using a "dental pick" available at most home stores to remove some material around broken screw after drilling works well. In addition on larger holes like the one with the 4-5 holes drilled alongside the broken screw, Gorilla Glue which expands and hardens works exceptionally well just wipe away excess BEFORE allowing to dry overnight as it expands when drying and add extra paper and masking tape as protection against damage to finish. The next day once hardened trim flat and sand smooth careful not to damage paint/finish. Once done drill new hole for strap button/strap lock screw and insert screw use drill bit one size smaller in diameter and screw 1/4 longer than necessary (chrome plated, phillips head, hardened screw from hardware store).

As the strap button screws commonly found on guitars are chrome plated hardened steel and small in diameter even with the proper tools ie. easy outs (for broken screws/bolts) and other screw removal tools and using titanium drill bits it's IMPOSSIBLE to drill out the broken screw. I'm a bus/diesel mechanic who has regularly removed studs, bolts, screws from wood and metal for years using the best tools available but when working on a guitar one must be careful NOT to damage the paint/finish. I've found the above procedures nearly foolproof, one need only proceed with caution, Do NOT rush, think things through, work methodically, in good light and you'll get professional results.

This repair UNLIKE suggested above is NOT only for LAMINATED HARDWOOD bodies but "solid" body guitars as well.

In each case above there is NO indication of the screw repair as the strap button/strap lock covers the entire repair. I've used my Squier II Stratocaster consistently and the screw has NEVER come loose nor has it broken.

Who needs to have a guitar that resembles the piece of crap Billy Joe Suk@$$ of Greenpuke plays with a GOB of duct tape holding the strap button/strap lock on ? His guitar shows he has NO respect for his "instrument". I wonder if his other "instrument" in his pants resembles his slovenly guitar with a ball of duct tape around it keeping it intact ? Had he taken the time to learn to use tools properly rather than slinking around Berkley & San Fransisco while truant from high school maybe his clothes wouldn't be full of adhesive. Those fumes from the duct tape adhesive might be the cause of his nation-hating "brain damaged" lyrics?


Last edited by JerseyJettFan on Mon Jan 11, 2010 5:44 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Post subject: LAMINATED HARDWOOD bodies SUPERB "tone" ! Great v
Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:07 pm
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Unlike someone above I don't discriminate nor do I apply disinformation against certain guitars due to the materials used in construction. I do NOT engage in "headstock label snobbery" either.

Squiers are FANTASTIC guitars, under-rated, often overlooked, unfairly discriminated against by a segment of guitar society.

The LAMINATED HARDWOOD bodies are NOTHING like the "plywood" a person aboves compares them to. They are made of approximately thirteen (13) sheets of SELECT HARDWOOD, NO knots, NO inconsistencies, no substandard material. They are formed under high pressure with adhesives superior in strength to those available to the general public. These guitar bodies ARE more uniform than "solid" (made of three planks glued end to end, thus WEAK !) body guitars because their formation is "controlled".

The LAMINATED HARDWOOD bodies are heavier, produce SUPERIOR "tones" and will last a LIFETIME. I doubt one will ever split along it's grain/seam if dropped like a "solid" body guitar. Because of "misinformation" these guitars are snubbed and disregarded by those IGNORANT of the SUPERB performance ! If anyone has a chance to play or purchase one DO SO !!! Do NOT hesitate it will be a great value for your "dollar" one you'll NEVER regret and once those guitarists "in the know" hear what it's capable of they will no longer snicker or callously ignore a Squier. Try it you'll LOVE IT !!!! I have three LAMINATED HARDWOOD bodied Fender/Squiers and they are FANTASTIC guitars ! ! !


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Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:16 am
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Well.. That's good for you then right? That means you can buy them all up dirt cheap.

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Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:56 pm
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By engaging in the patently false, and derisive comments about the LAMINATED HARDWOOD bodied Squiers you "turn off" and discourage those new players who are ignorant of the facts. It's because of attitudes like yours along with disinformation you provide in the above post that make new, young, and impressionable aspiring beginners "ashamed" to use a perfectly good guitar. Your naivete leads the uninformed to make improper and often errorneous assumptions. Look at what diastrous results occured last November to this great nation, the USA with people like you intentionally spewing disinformation on a daily basis.


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Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:11 am
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Dude.. Seriously.. You have an odd passion for plywood. I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with you in any discussion as to whether plywood is an upgrade to hardwood, or even some of the softer wood guitars. Did you skip over the fact that I had one myself at one point??

It was prone to problems where end-grain is concerned. If that bothers you, I don't know what to tell you other than you're free to your opinion with your own experiences.

Of course these guitars aren't made of the CDX you find at Home Depot. But the fact is that NO lumber product company I've ever dealt with (and I'm actually talking about the actual originating companies who make the plywoods I've purchased in the past), have ever disclosed what types of wood are in the makeup of their layers of plywoods. In fact, hardwood plywood is primarily used for "appearance". If Squier DID in fact use this kind of ply, it would have been most likely B or C grade. Otherwise it would have been expensive, and able to have a sunburst finish. I've yet to run across a Squier plywood sunburst guitar (not to say they don't exist, but I haven't seen it).

The other option would be Marine ply. Problem is, Marine ply has about 11 layers within 3/4".. According to your description, that wouldn't be the case, and it's very expensive at that.

If I had to guess, I would say that it's birch ply. The same you find on speaker cabinets. Cost efficiency and considering the trade would certainly suggest that wouldn't it? Call it LAMINATED HARDWOOD if you want. But it's not deterring me to my assumption so far.

There was a post a while back from someone who was re-finishing a Squier Mini, and it DID have voids. The voids were puttied, and the guitar was skimmed with most likely a home-brew of Bondo (fiberglass resin and talc) in certain spots. What's to make me think that these Squiers aren't made of the same stuff?

I'm afraid if you're going to be able to school me on the FACTS, then you're going to have to prove it IS a higher grade than that. Do you work at a Squier factory? What's your inside track on this information?

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Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:38 am
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By the way, FYI, I have 6 working Squiers, and 2 projects in the works. I play them at shows regularly.

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Me playing my favorite MIK Stagemaster.

I'm not one of those "snobs" you referred to earlier. I play my Fenders when I feel like the situation calls for it as well.

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Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:30 am
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Let's put it this way, I'm close to twice your age, have been involved in special ordering flooring for buses receiving total rebuilds, Installed it myself and have worked nights at the home improvement centers. I've seen the "custom spec'd" sheets firms like Fender/Squier use and they ARE consistent in tolerances and material. They are NOT "off the shelf" materials and that has been confirmed by the manufacturers. They ARE designed for maximum resonance if not the "sustain" would be robbed by the inferior soft woods used in "plywood" destined as "building materials".

Too many young impressionable players are reluctant enough to be seen with a "Squier" it's a "image thing" that been perpetuated by those that use derogatory "words" for the materials of their guitars. If anything they should be encouraged and to compare their instruments to "sheets of plywood" is disingenous at best. It ridicules their instrument and at a time when most impressionable (teen years) leaves a negative view of an otherwise superior material. The young are susceptible to this sort of misinformation and if repeated enough they believe it as FACT. That is why I try to set the record straight as I've been watching these sites for years and seen post after post deriding this fablous material and in almost EVERY case it's someone new to the hobby who is asking then later dejected. They should be assured they have quality guitars and that if received as a gift someone spent hard-earned cash thoughtfully, fulfilling their dream of owning a "Strat or Tele".

I can tell you one thing, I've NEVER seen a "LAMINATED HARDWOOD" body split or splinter along the seam where the planks of a "solid" body were joined with glue nor have I seen one splinter along "grain" lines after being accidently dropped from waist height though I seen more than my share of "solid" body guitars with that same damage.


Last edited by JerseyJettFan on Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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