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Post subject: Roughness along the Skunk Stripe
Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:26 am
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I picked up a 1998 MIM Fender P-Bass; been sitting for years. Bridges were almost down to the plate, lots of relief, maybe 1/8". So I Cappoed the 1st fret, held strings down at last fret put the wrench 1/4 turn to the headstock and relief is now about .021 at the 8th fret, will put the wrench in a couple of days to get closer to .015. Got the string height at the 17th fret to 3/32", (was more like 1/8") feels pretty good but I play light so will go for less relief and maybe lower bridges a bit -- all is well there. Was afraid I would need to shim the neck but seems it is o.k. after the adjustments. But............
....Never saw this on a Fender, the skunk stripe is a little rough along the lower edge and a bit on the upper edge of the skunk stripe around 3d to 7th fret. I know I can knock it down with a little 000 steel wool. Did not look at it before I did the adjustment, wonder if the rod is angry and trying to get out? Maybe from age -- it sat for about 5 years in the bag unplayed in who knows what kind of atmosphere (we are in the desert). Doing the rod no more that 1/4 turn per week, the little adjustments I made put it in good working order.

Any advise?

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Post subject: Re: Roughness along the Skunk Stripe
Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:17 am
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I'd just wax it up good and slick. Play it like that for a while. If it really bothers you just sand it down. If you have a rosewood fretboard, condition it with some Music Nomad F-Oil. Great stuff.

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Post subject: Re: Roughness along the Skunk Stripe
Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 4:54 pm
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What Linnen said, except I use this instead of oil.

Image


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Post subject: Re: Roughness along the Skunk Stripe
Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:51 pm
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brotherdave wrote:
What Linnen said, except I use this instead of oil.

Image



Whoa- that looks interesting. Where do we get that?


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Post subject: Re: Roughness along the Skunk Stripe
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 3:07 pm
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stroker vance wrote:
brotherdave wrote:
What Linnen said, except I use this instead of oil.

Image



Whoa- that looks interesting. Where do we get that?


Amazon and there are other sources but they are mostly in Europe. Found out about it from a violin restoration expert a very long time ago and bought a jar he had. Works on anything except a loose flaky powdery surface. Get the large size pictured and it will last a decade or more. It works on bare wood, finished wood, painted surfaces (oil or acrylic or poly including fine art paintings) and METAL such as armor, swords, religious relics, jewelry etc. Developed by the British Museum nearly 60 years ago it is still used there on antique furniture, paintings, leather materials, book bindings, ivory, jewelery and metal. They also use it to preserve paper documents. Very durable, easy to apply and one of the larger tubs is probably a lifetime supply if you only put it on guitars. Like Brylcreem, "A little dab will do ya'!" Excellent transparency and a very controllable sheen but it will tend to change the patina of vintage metals especially gold. Ideal for vintage instruments and the only product I know about that is safe on both maple and rosewood fretboards. Unlike oils that can kill strings it has little impact upon them other than preventing rust since it can't penetrate metal and as a paste before drying it will not seep into windings. While I have used it on rosewood in the past I now only use it only on maple boards since I think your finger oils are beneficial to rosewood and that finger oil from regular play is really all the oil a rosewood board needs. My opinion, and no I can't prove it. If you put this on rosewood nothing gets in or out until it wears off. I want some finger oil in the rosewood so I stopped using it. In a few months of play the friction from strings will wear most of it off a rosewood board. Friction is about the only way to remove this stuff though. You can apply this in multiple coats to restore a faded nitro guitar finish such as severely faded Fiesta Red to make it look shiny again and it is safe on celluloid pickguards as well adding shine to them. It even stops pickguard screws from rusting.


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