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Post subject: Help - AVRI
Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 5:14 pm
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Last edited by precisionbassfloyd on Thu Mar 08, 2018 6:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Fender Play Winter Sale 2020
Post subject: Re: Help - AVRI
Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:33 pm
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Hi Floyd,

Round toothpick, glue, Dremel tool to level and a color pen from ReRanch.com is about all I can recommend. On the bright side the cover should hide it completely and if it does I wouldn't worry about it. I've got one bass with an extra hole too. You may not need to re-drill both holes either to straighten it out.


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Post subject: Re: Help - AVRI
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 8:02 am
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Post subject: Re: Help - AVRI
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 1:41 pm
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Post subject: Re: Help - AVRI
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:03 pm
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I put mine on myself. Took my time and it looks real nice. I know a guy who has a '70's Jbass and has never put the covers on it.

Tip: Watch out for burs on the bottom of the metal ears where the screwholes are. They will scratch up the finish. So don't lay it on the painted surfaces of the bass.

I wish they would include a paper template with the case candy that you can place over the bridge if they aren't going to pre drill holes factory.

I think I shoved mine right up against the base of the bridge tight and then let it settle back a couple mm's.

Anyone know if the originals had pre-drilled holes?

Image


Last edited by lungimsam on Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:14 pm, edited 6 times in total.

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Post subject: Re: Help - AVRI
Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:26 am
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Post subject: Re: Help - AVRI
Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:47 am
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Thanks. They look better with both covers on, but this is the closest shot I had of mine.

I couldn't believe I could get it in black because, at the time, they were only showing burst and white on the site. I'd like a burst, btw. I am into seeing the woodgrain now.

Crooked would bug me too.

If I were you, I would drill the new holes and install it so you could enjoy it. Worry about filling the old holes later. That's if you have enough clearance from the old holes. You could call a Fender Authorised service guy in your area and ask him what he recommends. Or, just let him do it.

Post pics when you are done. You have a great bass.


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Post subject: Re: Help - AVRI
Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:00 am
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Post subject: Re: Help - AVRI
Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 2:01 pm
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Hi Floyd,

I see what you mean about the correct alignment vs existing hole issue. This is very fixable. Yes the toothpicks will hold the way I do it. I use this same method minus the touch up paint to re-install strap buttons. FIRST: USE A HIGH QUALITY MASKING TAPE LIKE THE BLUE 3-M to cover the area with the exception of JUST the hole opening. You are going to be using glue and paint, you don't want either going anywhere it isn't needed.

1. Use the harder ROUND toothpicks mainly, then pack in some flat ones if you need to for a tight fit. The round ones are harder so use them as much as possible. Once you have the right number and sizes of toothpicks for a good packing remove them all by pulling straight out with pliers. Feel free to whittle some down if you need to do so.
2. Put a good coating of Gorilla brand wood glue or similar glue to cover the tip area of each individual toothpick and re-insert them one by one after coating the tip of each toothpick with glue. As wood fills the hole, the glue will get compressed and flow on up the shafts of the toothpicks and perhaps out of the hole. Force glue tipped toothpicks into the hole until they are tight and you can't fit another. Do not break or cut the toothpicks yet as doing so before the glue dries can undermine the tightness of the packing.
3. Wipe off any glue excess that you can around the lip of the hole.
4. Let dry 24 hours!
5. Using high quality wire cutters snip off the toothpicks as flush as possible, but there will still be a protrusion of wood from the hole.
6. Using a very fine tip on Dremel tool reduce any protruding toothpick wood to flush by buffing just the toothpick.
7. Apply the touch up pen from Reranch.com. Here is a link to the touch up pens: http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/guitrertoucu.html They have pens in about every Fender color ever made.
8. Let dry another 24 to 36 hours then remove masking tape and then buff.
9. Re- measure & re-drill. I apply fresh blue 3M masking tape, making it easier and safer to mark the exact drill spot on the tape. The masking tape also keeps paint from chipping around the drill bit as I have seen it break off in chunks around the hole if you don't tape it first. You can use the Dremel to buff off burrs on the back of the covers before putting them on the bare wood of the guitar. Be sure to examine the instrument with the covers in place over the screw marks from EVERY angle possible. What looks right from one angle looks wrong from another and requires adjustment. P-Bass bodies are tricky. There is no stencil for this, but there are stencils for the thumbrest/fingerrest. Go figure that one out.

(To answer the other question. Fender basses always came with covers pre-installed until CBS stopped installing them but did still include them with the case candy for a couple of years up to about '79. The holes were no longer pre-drilled once covers moved to case candy status. I think it was in 1980 that CBS stopped the chrome covers altogether since the majority of players were removing them from older instruments and not bothering to install them on the newer ones.)


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