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Post subject: Before I tear it all apart...
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:08 pm
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Just replaced the pots and input jack on my 2000 MIM P-bass. When I fully insert the cable into the input jack I get no sound. When I pull the cable partially out I get sound. Did I simply reverse the tip and sleeve wires or could it be something else?

Thx


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Post subject: Re: Before I tear it all apart...
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:31 pm
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Telespank wrote:
Just replaced the pots and input jack on my 2000 MIM P-bass. When I fully insert the cable into the input jack I get no sound. When I pull the cable partially out I get sound. Did I simply reverse the tip and sleeve wires or could it be something else?

Thx


Hi Spanky,
How many terminal lugs are there on your jack?

If three lugs (which I suspect from partial insertion generating audio) you have wired the wrong lug positive (white.) Solder to the other vacant lug because you may have the ground correct.

If only two lugs (as there should be on a passive instrument), reverse them and try that.

Which lug is the ground lug and which is the tip lug is usually pretty easy to figure out on a TWO lug jack. The terminal that runs continuously to the locking tip is positive (white) and the other one is ground (black).


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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:37 pm
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I tore it back apart. Compared the wiring to the old set of pots and jack that I took out, then compared it to the fender diagram and then the Seymour Duncan diagram. Everything lines up properly. It's only a two lug jack and it seems to be 100% correct.

Where to now is the new question.

Thanks for the reply!


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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:51 pm
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Telespank wrote:
I tore it back apart. Compared the wiring to the old set of pots and jack that I took out, then compared it to the fender diagram and then the Seymour Duncan diagram. Everything lines up properly. It's only a two lug jack and it seems to be 100% correct.

Where to now is the new question.

Thanks for the reply!


OK. Try a different cable. How far out do you have to pull the plug from the jack before you get audio?

Is it a Switchcraft jack? They are good, but I suppose it could be defective. If you have a pair of alligator clip test leads try the clips from the jack terminals to your cable plug. If it works something is wrong with the jack.

Funny, diagrams are often very different!


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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 11:50 pm
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I'm going to be scarce around here for about a week. So I won't be able to help further in the immediate future.

So it could be the new jack has a problem, it could be bad wiring or it could be a bad plug on the cable. If you are getting audio with the plug partially inserted the fault is in the jack or the plug on your cable.

Here's a thought. Put the old jack back in and see if that fixes it.


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Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 5:31 pm
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Under the premise that you've absolutely, positively wired everything correctly, chances are the tip of your jack is touching the body of the bass once fully inserted and is shorting out the bass.

See, the body of your bass has a coating of shielding paint (part of the ground or negative circuit) and once the tip of the jack (part of the positive circuit) touches the body, the entire circuit will short out. That separation you are currently doing is evidently breaking this short.

You can either scrape off the paint directly below where the jack goes or put a piece of electrical tape (or two, stacked) on the body of the bass directly underneath where the jack goes. You are better off remedying the problem this latter way as it will insulate the tip from the paint without you having to scrape any paint off.

There is a third way but I don't recommend it: Raise the height of the female input by removing any nut or star washer on the shaft of the female input. I don't recommend it because this will put more stress on the pickguard surrounding the input to where the pickguard may eventually crack. Also, you will continually run into problems with the input loosening which of itself, can create additional problems with wires breaking off.

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Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 5:26 pm
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Martian,

Thanks because your reply was spot on. When I break one of my guitars down this far I always fully shield the control cavity and back of the pick guard weather it needs it or not. The output jack was turned to far to the lower side of the control cavity thus causing the exact problem you detailed. I loosened and rotated the jack and whammo we were in business.

I am the regular bassist with a band that rotates other members. Several of our regular tech folks today were floored. (They didn't know I replaced the pots, cap, and all wires.) They all asked "what did you do to your bass the tone is just killer?" I really heard the difference in my "in ears" too.

I just grinned from ear to ear and felt very satisfied in my $25 investment.

Thanks again to you guys who chimed in to offer assistance!

Blessings!


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Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 6:01 pm
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Telespank wrote:
Martian,

Thanks because your reply was spot on. When I break one of my guitars down this far I always fully shield the control cavity and back of the pick guard weather it needs it or not. The output jack was turned to far to the lower side of the control cavity thus causing the exact problem you detailed. I loosened and rotated the jack and whammo we were in business.

I am the regular bassist with a band that rotates other members. Several of our regular tech folks today were floored. (They didn't know I replaced the pots, cap, and all wires.) They all asked "what did you do to your bass the tone is just killer?" I really heard the difference in my "in ears" too.

I just grinned from ear to ear and felt very satisfied in my $25 investment.

Thanks again to you guys who chimed in to offer assistance!

Blessings!


You're quite welcome. All's well that ends well!

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