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Post subject: A question for BrotherDave, please...
Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 1:44 pm
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Hi, BrotherDave, thanks for all of the excellent info you have posted here. I would like to ask a question, if I may. I am looking at getting one of the Highway One P-basses, and after talking to Fender, it looks as though I will have to go new insofar as the graphite rods are only present in the 2007+ models. The question of the coating came up, and I was told that there is a poly sealer coat put on before the lacquer top coat, as to what you indicated about the ability of lacquer to let the wood to breathe (and thus age or loose the moisture in the body), does that poly sealer prevent the breathing/aging? thanks!


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Post subject: Re: A question for BrotherDave, please...
Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 9:33 pm
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Aeryn Sun wrote:
Hi, BrotherDave, thanks for all of the excellent info you have posted here. I would like to ask a question, if I may. I am looking at getting one of the Highway One P-basses, and after talking to Fender, it looks as though I will have to go new insofar as the graphite rods are only present in the 2007+ models. The question of the coating came up, and I was told that there is a poly sealer coat put on before the lacquer top coat, as to what you indicated about the ability of lacquer to let the wood to breathe (and thus age or loose the moisture in the body), does that poly sealer prevent the breathing/aging? thanks!


So far as I know, starting in 1964 Fender started using a primer coat made by Fuller O'Brien paints called FULLERPLAST. The PLAST part of that product's name was for PLASTIC as in POLYURETHANE plastic. It dried really fast and sped up production. Prior to this they were using a nitrocellulose based primer. Once they started the Fullerplast process the golden age of Fender instruments was over. While it is said they are doing a thinner poly primer now, I still can't breathe with an ultra thin layer of Saran wrap over my head. So I don't know...for sure...but I don't see how any poly could breathe.

That being said, I think the American Standard for just a tad more money is a better value when you take the nice hard case and better pickup into consideration. The neck is still better too on the USA models. So are the tuners and the other hardware so you are getting something for your money. With the rebate right now the USA instruments are really a good value. The true USA models also have higher resale down the road. A USA bass will not cry out for upgrades as soon as you take it out of the gig bag.

I"m not saying don't buy a Highway One. I bought a HO Jazz afew years ago. Kept it a while and sold it at a loss. Nice finish but just didn't ever get used to it and the neck wasn't quite right for me.


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Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 9:35 pm
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One more thing. The USA basses have better body blanks. The best wood is pulled for the American basses.


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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 2:24 am
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As I said last night, there are better body blanks in the USA series. That is important and one of the most overlooked features of the USA basses vs MIM.

Just because it doesn't breathe doesn't mean it isn't a good bass. It just means it won't get much more resonant than it is right out of the box. The main thing is that the number of pieces that get glued together for the body blank and the density of each individual piece is one reason that no two basses will sound or play identical.

They just won't improve much over time.

Fender ages the body blanks a while anyway before finishing. Think of all the great post-64 guitars and basses and all the great recordings they've been used on and all the great players who chose one.

It isn't all bad with a poly finish. Poly has the advantage of being way more durable than thinner nitro. So I would find one I really liked the sound of and I would play several before deciding. They are each one going to be a tad different. When you find one that you think sounds better. That is one to consider.


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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 8:21 am
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Thanks, brotherdave, for all of your very informative help, it's going to be bass buying time soon!


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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 12:07 pm
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also, that begs the question, so Fender does not make any basses since 1964, that have only a lacquer finish, therefore any Fender basses made after 1964 will not age well since the bodies have a poly sealer, correct? Thanks!


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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 5:18 pm
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I didn't say post 64's won't age well. What I did say was that they will not improve in resonance or tone from a natural drying process like pre-Fullerplast instruments.

It is my understanding that the Fullerplast came in the middle of the ‘63/’64 model years. There are possibly even some 63's that got the Fullerplast.

I was 9 years old then and they've aged far better than me.

It also is frequently forgotten that with the pre-poly basses the whole breathing thing works both ways. Yes the instruments breathe out, but they also breathe in. If you stored the bass in a very humid environment for any period at all it would absorb humidity. Air conditioning was not as prevalent back then either. Also airborn chemicals and pollutants like cigarette smoke caused finishes to radically change colors and to a larger extent so did light. The nitro was very photo-reactive and was notorious for changing colors. Besides discoloration, nitro was very prone to checking & flaking.

The modern poly instruments actually do age well, meaning they are more durable. The hardware has better more uniform plating and the wood finishes are thicker & harder, so long as you don't drop it you are looking at a very durable package.

As far as finding post 64 all-nitro Fender basses some Custom Shop models were said to have been all nitrocellulose lacquer but I don't know for sure what the sealer was on them but at least some of them were touted as all nitro including the neck. The regular production Vintage Reissue basses like the ’62 are very close to Custom Shop stuff but they use a poly sealer with a nitro top coat. There may also have been some FSR (Fender Special Run) models and maybe some natural finishes that were total nitro with some stain underneath. I just don't know for sure about that so I can not categorically state that “all” of them were poly sealed.

You can go to google or dogpile search engines and type "Fender poly nitro" into them and get hours of reading on the subject.

I think it is a mistake to eliminate a really great sounding bass from consideration just because it will always sound exactly that great. It may not sound better years from now but it will still sound just as great. Since I’ve never really owned a pre-Fullerplast era bass I can’t say that there is a huge or a tiny benefit either. The people that seem to make the most out of the breathing issue seem really convinced though. Some are outright self righteous about it and call nitro over poly a deception. But that is how Fender regular production nitro finished instruments have been done since about 1964. My favorite Fender was a 1968 Telecaster bass. Obviously post ’63 and I loved it.

If you are all locked into this do-or-die-all-nitro concept then you can do any of the following four things. I’ve listed them in random order since I don’t want to influence your decision so that you can’t come back blaming me later:

1. Buy a pre 63/64 model year Fender. I’ll never have that kind of money myself. Even if I did I couldn’t bring myself to gig with a bass that cost more than my first house.

2. Find a new Fender you really love and want to keep forever and once you are sure it is “THE ONE” have it refinished all-nitro by one of the custom refinishing shops specializing in pre-Fullerplast nitro recreations like Gord Miller or Mark Jenny or anybody listed on my major repair & restoration page. You should plan on that costing 400 to 600 dollars or maybe more with shipping and customs if you use a service not in your country. Gordon Miller lives in Canada, where the nitro police (the US EPA) never goes.

3. Get a custom bass built by a shop specializing in nitro finishes. There is no shortage of people who will do that for you from scratch. But you are looking at a very expensive proposition and when all is said and done it will NOT be a Fender. Lots of people play custom made basses.

4. You can find one of the all-nitro Fender Custom Shop instruments. This is still expensive option but the one most likely to retain and grows in value.


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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 5:58 pm
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Thanks again for the info, brotherdave. And I quite agree with you, if you find an instrument you like, then buy it. I have a couple of Fenders that I have found to be quite good, and I have had some pass thru my hands that just didn't either sound good or feel good. I have a MIM P Special that I love the sound of, but the feel just isn't quite there, don't know if a pro setup would change that though.....


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Post subject: Another question for BrotherDave, please again...
Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:19 am
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Hey brotherdave,

I've been trying to get an wiring scheme for my bass and i was told that you could help me out.
So, if you dont mind, there's the specifications which I know so far.
my bass is a japanese jazz bass active aged 1988/1989. I could notice that there's just one master volume and 3 other pot controls which I have no idea what is it for. (maybe is balance, tone and I think that the last one is such a pot selector for active and passive *definitely not sure about that* heheh).

Please could you give me any answer about it?
You definetely are my last hope. hehe..

Thanks brother...


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Post subject: Re: A question for BrotherDave, please...
Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:44 pm
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Hi Dropfield, I do not have a schematic diagram for that bass here. Try emailing consumerrelations@fender.com and be sure to include the serial number in addition to the information you posted here. Good luck!


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Post subject: Re: A question for BrotherDave, please...
Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:38 am
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hey man! thanks give me that direction. as soon as i get that, i'll make sure that i send you a copy. I know you are such a fender's database. heheh.. cheers mate


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