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Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:05 pm
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However, there are chrome strings when it comes to flatwounds. (I guess they are even brighter than the ones made of stainless steel.)[/quote]

They probably are brighter than stainless steel. I haven't seen any chrome flatwounds, could you tell me where you found them please? Thanks!


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Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 10:18 pm
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musicman69 wrote:
rkithun wrote:
However, there are chrome strings when it comes to flatwounds. (I guess they are even brighter than the ones made of stainless steel.)


They probably are brighter than stainless steel. I haven't seen any chrome flatwounds, could you tell me where you found them please? Thanks!


Actually I found them in a German webstore called Thomann but since the brands are pretty international (some D'Addarios: http://www.thomann.de/gb/daddario_ecb_815_chromes.htm ) I'm sure you can try them out in the USA or elsewhere as well.

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Post subject: Re: Switching from 8250's..
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:04 am
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Arctic Bass wrote:
... do you have any set up tips when moving from taperwound strings to non-taperwound on a string-through body?

Thanks

Just lower the saddle to compensate for the added thickness. Often even though a taperwound string set is listed on the specs, I've seen brand new basses without taperwound E-strings. Not quite sure why they do this other than being out of the TW sets. The string through part is no problem as all the body through holes and metal ferules are the same diameter.

I've used mostly Thomastik-Infeld strings over the past five years, except for one bass (51 RI) with GHS 2035 Precision Flats, so I'm no expert on the current Fender strings. I've briefly used the 8250 M NPS and 7250 ML NPS since those are the strings on most new Fenders. I've also tried the Fender flats and they are surprisingly responsive and bright at first, a great string for the price!


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Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 12:21 am
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I use Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinkys on my 2 precisions. Those strings sound fantastic , especially when I turn up the tine knob on my bass just so much power and steel sound! :wink:


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Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:13 pm
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After changing out the 8250's on my Am Stndrd I went with my usual DAddario EXL 160's .105-.050. Sometimes I can't ever leave my setup alone, but anyway I just set it up with the lighter gauge EXL 170's .100-.045(the through the body stringing seemed better with the E string at .100 than .105 as these are non tapered) and hopefully better fit for me. After a slight action adjustment (a little higher) to counter slight buzz, seems like I'm good and they play well. Will I need a truss adjustment after a few weeks due to the lighter gauge? Am I headed for disaster? :?


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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 10:11 am
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Jav, I don't think that you are headed for disaster. Your adjustments probably won't hurt the bass at all. Howver, if the truss rod needs to be adjusted after a few weeks, I suggest that you take the bass to your local music shop and have them adjust it. Its always good to get professional help with these kinds of things.

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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 10:37 am
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Thanks. It was adjusted by the luthier at GC a few weeks after the first string change. So the neck was sitting perfect prior to the string change. If the change in tension (now less tension) requires a truss rod adjustment, what will be the first signs/symptoms that adjustment is necessary? Or is an adjustment necessary only when going up in gauge (more string tension). I reduced tension with the lower gauge strings.


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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:38 am
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Hi, A bass needs a little relief (very slight bow) in the neck, but not much. When you changed to lower tension strings the relief in your neck diminished which explains why you had to raise the action. If you had to raise the action so much that it doesn't play as well as before then that would be a sign it needs a truss rod adjustment. So would fretting out, buzzes and rattles.

I usually have this one particular guy in town set up a bass with the kind of strings I want to use on it and then always use that same set of strings on that bass and when changing strings I change them one at a time. I can go a long time without needing any adjustments that way. I don't know how they do it but they make my basses play better than I can. I used to work at a Fender dealer and worked on guitars but I can't do a set up as good as the guy I use, so I let him do it. His shop is really busy so it takes about a one week turn around but it is worth it.

If you want to try to do it yourself see the "DO-IT-YOURSELF SETUP & MAINTENANCE" page which is listed on the resources page in my signature. Two resources to study are the link to "Bass Setup To Fender Specs' and "Bass Setup Instruction Manual - By Gary Willis" Lots of set up guides on the net tell you to turn the nut one way or another, but Gary Willis' manual actually has an illustration showing you how to brace the bass for neck adjustments so that they are easier, smoother and safer. Everyone who does their own neck adjustments should try this method because it really makes everything easier.

So as MusicMan69 said, seek out a really good tech in your area and ask how much he charges to do a neck and bridge setup because you just put new strings on. I'm sure the GC tech is competent, but I'd check around because there might be someone around that specialize in setups at a better price. Try making a CRAIGSLIST "Musician Community" post on the local CRAIGSLIST asking other bassists to tell you who is the best bass tech in town and asking for any you should avoid. If the same techs are recommend more than the rest then those are the people to ask first.

Get a quote up front, get a claim ticket and get an estimate of when it will be ready. As for what to pay, I've paid up to $75 for a set up. Oddly the amount charged does not always reflect the skill of the tech. I was paying a well known shop in Charlotte $75 and then having to tweak the bridge afterward as the intonation would be off. Then I found a guy way closer to where I live who charges me $20 and does a way better job than I could do myself. This guy gets all my business. He truly can make a bass play better than anyone else around here.


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Post subject: Strings
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:37 pm
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GHS forever man! I have a signature flea set, medium gauge (45-105). Only way to go for me, although I wouldn't mind some DRs one day. But yip, GHS represent! :D


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Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:01 am
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How long does it last before re stringing with flea set?


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Post subject: Re: Strings
Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 2:59 pm
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I'm glad that you found a set of GHS strings that were good, because so far I have not found a set that were not terrible. :D

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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 4:04 pm
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Two weeks after the change to a lower string gauge, the truss rod only needed a tiny adjustment. Was almost still at perfect specs. The drop was only from D'Addario exl 160 to 170. But I expected a little more adjustment (when I went from Fender 8250 to the exl 160 there was more adjustment needed). I wonder if the elasticity of different brands is as big a factor as gauge.


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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 5:53 pm
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jav wrote:
Two weeks after the change to a lower string gauge, the truss rod only needed a tiny adjustment. Was almost still at perfect specs. The drop was only from D'Addario exl 160 to 170. But I expected a little more adjustment (when I went from Fender 8250 to the exl 160 there was more adjustment needed). I wonder if the elasticity of different brands is as big a factor as gauge.


I would'nt say its a bigger factor than the string gauge, but it is a factor nevertheless (definitely spelled that wrong). Elacticity (also spelled wrong), can affect how sharp the string sounds when plucked. Looser strings=more sharpness. Tighter strings=less sharpness.

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Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 10:33 am
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I was in reference of elasticity to string tension. Like 2 sets of strings of the same gauge, but different elasticity. Should be different tension loads regardless of being the same gauge?


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Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 1:22 pm
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jav wrote:
I was in reference of elasticity to string tension. Like 2 sets of strings of the same gauge, but different elasticity. Should be different tension loads regardless of being the same gauge?


Oh, I see what your saying. Yes, 2 string sets that are the same gauge but have different elacticities will have different tension. Looser string set=less tension, and tighter string set=more tension. Elacticity of a strings is basically another way of saying how tense the strings are.

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