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Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 6:03 pm
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brotherdave wrote:
Yes you can see the grain quite well. Funny but all the ones I've seen at the Guitar Center in Matthews NC look to be a different color entirely and you can't see any grain. I'll check again next time I'm over there. It could be they changed something.


I bought mine from Sweetwater.com last year. The bottom two pics I posted are two of the pics my Sweetwater sales rep emailed me before shipping the bass. They do that for all the basses I buy from them, and in this case I specifically asked about the transparency of the finish because I too have seen some with that thick, almost paint-like finish where you can't see the grain. So like I told the guy at Sweetwater, show me the grain or don't bother sending the bass!


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Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 6:06 pm
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Mastermold wrote:
Here's a pic of mine before Sweetwater shipped it to me (girl not included):

Image

I added the chrome covers later after I got it home.


Dave, here's another pic from Sweetwater. Farther away but you can see the wood grain here too.

The finish looks lighter in real life, the lights at Sweetwater make it appear darker. The actual color looks more like the pic I posted above with the covers on, next to the sunburst model (not a Fender by the way). This one:

Image


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Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 6:33 pm
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Mastermold wrote:
brotherdave wrote:
Mastermold wrote:

The new butterscotch is fairly close to the real deal but darker.


These colors are ALL different. Fairly close but darker? Understatement. Another thing....what you can not see in these photos is that the original blonde is see through and you get hints of the grain. The butterscotch yellow is completely opaque. So it isn't like the original either.

I guess if you want the original you could just cough up the 25 grand.

I've never been a big sunburst fan either but preferred it over the yellow. The sunburst ones are harder to come by for some reason.


Hey Dave, you can see the wood grain just fine in mine. Looks fantastic. But I've seen some that seem to have thicker finish than others.

Image

Image

Image

That's just what mine looks like.

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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 12:45 am
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I really want this bass, but I can only find it online for $940. Where are you guys finding them on clearance? I'm in Oregon and nobody seems to want to stock this bass. Is it worth the $940 I will probably have to pay for it? Or should I save a little more and get a MIA Pbass?


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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 6:46 am
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I got mine while they were still $630 -- I'm just sorry I didn't go for one while they were $600. I saw one at GC's web site (used) for $400 last month, but the only ones I've found on craigslist or eBay have been around $750. It's one of those basses that don't change hands much, but you can fall into a deal if you are patient.

In Fender's recent rollback on price increases, the '51 didn't roll back -- probably a sign that they are selling as many as they make.

Good luck -- bargains are out there, if you're able to wait.

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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:50 am
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Just checked the GC web site: there's one in Florida for $499.

http://used.guitarcenter.com/usedgear/index.cfm

If they'll ship, it's still under $600.

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"Digo: 'paciencia, y barajar.'" Don Quijote de la Mancha, Part II, Chapter 23


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Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:23 pm
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I paid $650 new for mine last year before the big price hike. $600 is a good price today.


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Post subject:
Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 7:53 pm
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I have a '51 P (in butterscotch) that I bought off the floor at Sweetwater a couple of years ago for about $600-$650. When I picked it up and plugged it in, I heard something I hadn't heard in any other bass I've ever played: big whopping bottom end that still sounds clear and punchy. For the price, it beats anything else on the rack, IMHO. I even sprung for the vintage Fender Tweed hardshell case.

While it's not the Swiss Army Knife of basses, I think works well in lots of situations, and pretty much defines classic electric bass tone. I know it varies a little bit from the original, but it stands as a monument to how many things Leo Fender (and George Fullerton) got right in one go.


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Post subject: More Serial Number Q
Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:38 am
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Dave - maybe you can answer this one....
on a CIJ '51 Reissue where the serial number is a letter followed by 6 numbers but the leading number is a "zero" is this a 5 or 6 number sequence? My guess is that it is six, otherwise why would they put the zero in there. Thanks. Todd

brotherdave wrote:
I have heard of people switching necks around. Putting a 51 RI neck on a Sting and moving the Sting neck to the 51 and then playing out with the Sting body. It has happened. I have seen two thusly swapped. I'm not saying this is what happened in this particular case, but certainly is one possibility. I've also considered doing it,but haven't and probably won't.

I've not seen any MIJ 51 Reissues. All I've seen are CIJ. That doesn't mean they don't exist, it just means I haven't seen them.

I'm suspecting the contoured body is a Sting body. I might be wrong but I'm suspecting it.

Also on the serial number, if Fender Japan follows the serial sequence that Fender lists on their CIJ page, which I have no reason to doubt they would do, I’ll quote:

CIJ Serial
Crafted in Japan O + 5 digits = 1997-2000
Crafted in Japan P + 5 digits = 1999-2002
Crafted in Japan Q + 5 digits = 2002-2004
Crafted in Japan R + 5 digits = 2004-2005

This listing hasn’t been updated since 2005! It should have been, but it hasn't. So one could follow the recent serial pattern & extrapolate that:
Crafted in Japan S + 5 digits 2005-2006
Crafted in Japan T + 5 digits 2006-2007

(EDIT)....OR...maybe this is it!
Crafted in Japan R + 5 digits = (continued) into 2006
Crafted in Japan S + 5 digits 2006-2007
Crafted in Japan T + 5 digits 2007-2008

Dave


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Post subject:
Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:04 pm
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That is a good point. My serial is "S0" with 5 digits after the zero, or i wondered if it really an "O" like in "OCEAN?"
Guitar Dater Project does decodes it as a zero but not as the letter "O." They would have started the extra digit I suppose in 2005-2006.

Guitar Dater Project software does decode my serial to 2005-2006.


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