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Post subject: Complete Telecaster Build Pictorial II
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 3:34 pm
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I was going to build a double bound Telecaster that was influenced by Pete Townshend's original single bound, black Schechter Tele from the early 1980's, that was later produced in a double bound version with altered control positions, as shown below.

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I selected the following double bound, black, alder Tele body from RockAudio.com's Custom Series:

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Rockaudio.com is a relatively new guitar parts supply company located outside of Boston that offers relatively low cost Fender style guitar bodies, as well as necks and other guitar parts.

I'm using the neck from a Fender / Heineken promotional Telecaster that I bought a few years ago on eBay.
I added the pearl white pickguard, which was originally just a white pickguard.

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The neck has a really cool red star at the 12th fret, which was probably the main reason that I bought this guitar.

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The neck has the Fender transitional logo, which will work well with this guitar.
I previously replaced the original bent steel string tree with a modern Fender string tree that is in the reversed position from the normal Fender orientation, due to the placement of the original string tree, relative to the logo.

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A few years ago, at great expense, I bought a Fender Custom Shop, modern style, chromed brass bridge for a future guitar build, that was listed on eBay by the "sub-orbital" guy.
This bridge is not available to purchase new from Fender and is strictly used on Telecasters from the Fender Custom Shop
It is similar to the Fender American Deluxe bridge, with the addition of the curved lip on the end of the bridge, which is a nice finishing design touch.

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The rear routing on the first guitar body was positioned where the Telecaster through body controls could not be placed in the proper Telecaster location, and would be 3/8" to 1/2" closer to the side of the guitar and further away from the bridge plate.
So I returned the body to RockAudio and purchased a double bound alder body with front routing, with routing for a middle Nashville style pickup.

The second body came, again nicely packaged in double boxes with packing paper.

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I initially mocked-up the guitar.

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During the mock-up, I placed two pins in the two outside string holes, extending into the body, and confirmed that the scale length of the guitar was 25.5" long from the bottom of the nut to the approximate contact point on the high "E" string bridge saddle, and that the bridge pickup routing, and drilled string holes, are in the proper location.

Image


Last edited by MickJagger on Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:20 am, edited 4 times in total.

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 1:32 pm
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Nice ... Tuned in

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 9:11 pm
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Lookin good!


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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 7:48 am
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Nice!

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 11:37 pm
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As noted, I ran into a bit of a problem with this project.
The first Rockaudio body was very nice and everything looked good initially.
But a second look at the rear control cavity led me to believe that the control cavity routing might be closer to the side of the guitar than would be the case with a front routed Tele body.
To check the rear routing placement, I taped the bridge plate and chrome control cavity cover to the face of the guitar body in the proper location, using a pickguard to aid with the proper alignment of the bridge and control cover plate.
The placement of the bridge plate was also determined by placing pins through the end string holes of the bridge plate and into the end string holes in the body, as was shown above.

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The measurement from the centerline of the control cover to the edge of the body along the top of the masking tape was approximately 2-7/8".

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The masking tape was wrapped straight around to the back of the body and over to the control cavity routing.
From the centerline of the control cavity routing to the edge of the body along the top of the masking tape measured approximately 2-1/2".

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This showed that the centerline of the rear routing was at least 3/8" closer to the side of the guitar than it should have been, to be aligned with where the front side routing would be, which means that the controls through the front side body would be nearly 1/2" closer to the side of the body from where they should be with a front side control cavity routing.

For this reason, I returned the body to Rockaudio, who informed me that this was the way that their routing jig was set up at this time and that Rockaudio was not going to make a change to the routing jig at this time.
So Rockaudio was kind enough to refund my money to my PayPal account.

A second Rockaudio body has arrived and I am building a Tele that is influenced by the 1997-98, Fender Telecaster Plus, which is shown in the picture below, which is similar to the current Fender, Nashville style Telecasters, having a middle pickup.
The Fender Telecaster Plus preceded the Fender American Deluxe Telecaster series, and had a single binding on the body. as shown in this picture below.

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Initially, I'm going with a black 3 ply (B/W/B) pickguard, and I plan to use a noiseless, Lace Chrome Dome pickup for the middle pick up, in addition to Fender Samarium Cobalt, noiseless pickups, at the neck and bridge.


Last edited by MickJagger on Mon Feb 15, 2016 12:41 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 4:47 am
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After examining the second Rockaudio Tele body, and doing some mockups with the pickups, I realized that a little wood work would need to be performed on the body.
To make the necessary changes, I bought a 5/8" forstner drill bit.

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I also bought a 1' long, 5/16" drill bit.

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The Tele body was originally drilled to allow the neck and middle pickup wires to run into the bridge pickup routing cavity.
However, no hole was drilled from the bridge pickup routing cavity to the control cavity, which had to be drilled.

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The small hole at the bottom of the control cavity, which leads to the 7/8" output jack cavity, will eventually be enlarged.

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I also opened up the opening of the hole that was drilled in the Bridge pickup cavity to the control cavity, so that the wires from the middle and bridge pickups, as well as the copper shielding ground wire could lie flat on the floor of the bridge pickup cavity, before exiting into the control cavity, due to the tight fit of the bridge pickup in the bridge pickup cavity.

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After mocking up the bridge pickup, I decided that I did not want to run the neck wires into the bridge routing, due to the tight fit of the bridge pickup into the bridge pickup routing cavity.
So I decided to drill a hole from the neck pickup cavity to the control cavity for the neck pickup wires.

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I am using the now discontinued, Fender Samarium Cobalt Noiseless (SCN) Telecaster pickups, designed by Fender in conjunction with Bill Lawrence, in the neck and bridge positions, which utilize rare earth Samarium Cobalt magnets in a stacked humbucker configuration.

I love these "rare earth magnet" Telecaster pickups which have strong permanent magnets made of an alloy of samarium and cobalt, extremely resistant to demagnetization and are relatively expensive and stronger, compared to alnico magnets.
I managed to buy a couple sets of SCN Telecaster pickups at close out prices a couple years ago when they were discontinued, most likely due to rising costs associated with the market for rare earth magnets.

To match the old Fender "Tele Plus" chrome covered middle pickup, I am using a Lace Chrome Dome, Stratocaster pickup, that was ordered with reversed winding (for 60 cycle hum reduction).
This is probably unnecessary due to the use of noiseless (stacked humbucker) pickups in the neck and bridge positions.
However, when I mocked up the Lace chrome dome pickup with the middle pickup routing cavity, it would not fit into the middle routing cavity of the RockAudio body.

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Both the neck and middle pickup cavities measure the same at 8.2 centimeters.
The "Nashville style" body came with two Telecaster sized neck pickup cavities, which would not accommodate a Stratocaster size pickup in the middle position, as is normally used in "Nashville style" Teles.

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Using the 5/8" forstner drill bit, I broadened the Middle Pickup cavity on both ends.

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The body came with a 7/8" output hole for the output jack, which was drilled about 1" into the body, but not all the way to the control cavity, which was connected to the control cavity by a much smaller hole, which was shown earlier.
This would preclude inserting the output jack into the output hole from the control cavity, requiring the lead wires to be soldered after inserting the output jack into the output hole form the exterior of the guitar.
For this reason, I chose to extend the 7/8" output hole cavity into the control cavity with the forstner drill bit.

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I then shielded the guitar cavities with copper tape that is advertised as having conductive adhesive.

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I use only two (2) pieces of copper tape in the cavities; one piece for the floor, and one piece for the walls, making sure that the tape on the floor and walls overlap.
The copper tape is also overlapped onto the face of the guitar body which will be covered by the pickguard and bridge plate.
The back of the pickguard will also be lined with copper tape to control static electricity, and the overlapping copper tape on the body of the guitar will ground the pickguard and assist with grounding the bridge plate.
Even though the copper tape is advertised as having conductive adhesive, I still spot solder the overlapping joints in each cavity.

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A ground wire is then soldered into all of the cavities which will ground the copper shielding.

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The copper tape on the floors of the pickup cavities is covered with electrical tape to assure that the pickups will not ground-out.

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At the end of day one of the Tele build, I mocked-up the pickguard with attached pickups, the bridge plate and the control plate.
I'm hoping that the bridge pickup cavity will prove to be deep enough the accommodate the tall, stacked humbucker, SCN bridge pickup, relative to the strings of the guitar. :roll:

Image
I later realized my initial fear, as is discussed at the end of this thread, that the bridge pickup cavity was not deep enough to accommodate the SCN bridge pickup, in order to provide adequate string clearance for the proper sound quality of the pickup, forcing me to disassemble the guitar, lower the bridge pickup floor, and re-shield the bridge pickup cavity.


Last edited by MickJagger on Mon Feb 15, 2016 12:23 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 2:35 pm
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I wired up the electronics which includes an Oak Grigsby 5-Way, 2 Pole Super Switch, 2 CTS 250k Audio-Taper Pots, an ON-ON-ON mini toggle switch, a Switchcraft L11 Jack and an Orange Drop .022µF Capacitor.
All ground wires are connected to a "ground star," as shown in the picture below, as opposed to being soldered on top of the pot, which is then bound with electrical tape.

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Here is a close-up of the Super Switch wiring.

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Here is a wiring diagram for the "Tele Plus" wiring, which is the same as a Nashville Tele without the optional mini toggle.

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Here is a wiring diagram for the Volume and Tone pots that I used which differs from the above diagram.
As noted above, all ground wires are connected to a "ground star," as opposed to being soldered on top of the pot.

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Here are some diagrams for the ON-ON-ON and ON-OFF-ON switches.
I bought both types of switches, but had planned on using the ON-OFF-ON switch.
Unfortunately, the ON-OFF-ON switch was defective and would not hold either of the ON positions, with the lever springing back to the center OFF position.
So at this point, I am using the ON-ON-ON switch.

Image

Image


Last edited by MickJagger on Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:47 pm
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Absolutely great thread MickJagger, build looks like its going well, and you've overcome a couple of issues along the way :)

I think you should be fine with the pickup height in the rear cavity, and putting the insulating electrical tape on the bottom to not ground out the pickup should it touch the copper tape is a good idea.

Given that you've drilled into the guitar at this point and wont be able to return it, if you find its a case of millimeters separating the pickup height of being too close to the strings, you might be able to shimm the neck and raise the saddles to give you that extra height, rather than taking the whole thing apart and dropping a router into the pocket to dig out more, retaping etc etc.

Looking forward to seeing the finished result :)

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 7:01 pm
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With the bridge pickup attached to the bridge plate, I placed pins in the outside string holes before drilling the bridge.
This was to assure proper alignment of the string holes in the body with the string holes in the bridge plate.
I first drilled pilot holes using a small drill bit centered in the holes of the bridge plate.
I then screwed down the bridge plate.

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I placed copper tape on the back of the pickguard to prevent any static electric "pops" through the amp.

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I then screwed down the pickguard after drilling small pilot holes centered in the screw holes of the pickguard.

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A “Rutters Shallow Twisted Machined Jack Cup” combined with a Switchcraft L11 Jack, which is the longer Switchcraft jack, was used so that a guitar cable with a right angle plug could be used.
This is always a problem with stock Fender Telecasters.
The Rutters twisted jack cups is a great jack cup, without need for a spring clip or set screws, even if it is a little bit pricey.
The jack cup was "persuaded" into the 7/8" side body hole with a rubber mallet.
I think that you can use a shorter Swithcraft jack with the "Shallow" Rutters jack cup and still use a right angle plug, but the long L11 Swithcraft jack assures this is the case.

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Schaller strap lock buttons were mounted to the top and bottom of the guitar body.

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I next installed the string ferrules into the back holes that were pre-drilled by Rockaudio.
The ferrules used were from Stewart Mac which I already had from a prior build.
The StewMac ferrules have the ribs on the shaft of the ferrule, whereas Fender ferrules are smooth.

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I used a pair of needle nose pliers as a "drift" between the ferrule and the hammer to tap the ferrules home.
Obviously, when I'm not taking a picture, I hold the pliers with my left hand.

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After bolting on the neck, I strung the low "E" string.
With the bridge saddle at a very low position, the string was still very high above the neck.

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The neck was on the original Heineken promo guitar until recently, so the truss rod setting was properly adjusted for .09 strings.
Once all the strings are on and in tune, the neck relief will be inspected.
A double strip of masking tape was used as a shim, placed below the below the bottom screws.

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This is all that it took to correct the geometry of the neck so that the string action would be low with the bridge saddles set at an ideal height, with saddle height varying consistent with the neck radius.

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As I have stated elsewhere in this forum, I set the action by adjusting the bridge saddles first, checking for fret buzz, and then if necessary, I adjust truss rod based on visual examination of the neck relief, the string action, and the feel of the string action, without use of a capo and feeler gauge, which I consider to be unnecessary.

With the guitar plugged into an amp, the neck and middle pickups were adjusted, relative to the strings, based on the sound of the pickups.
The bridge pickup is at the lowest position possible (still fairly close to the strings) due to minimal room in the bridge pickup cavity, and the height of the SCN noiseless, stacked humbucker pickup.
Fortunately the bridge pickup works fine, without my having to rip the pickup out and lower the floor of the bridge pickup cavity, but it would be nice if Rockaudio would deepen the bridge pickup cavity.

So, here's the finished "Tele Plus" >>>

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The Tele plays great, with the middle, Lace Chrome Dome pickup adding a Strat sound to the neck pickup in switch position 2 and to the bridge pickup in switch position 4.

The mini-toggle, adds the Bridge pickup to the Neck pickup in switch position 1, and the Bridge pickup to the Neck and Middle pickup in switch position 2.

All in all, I'm very happy with the outcome of this build, and with the very affordable double bound Rockaudio Tele body.


Last edited by MickJagger on Sat Feb 13, 2016 12:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 8:07 am
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Very cool & thanks for the great detailed pics as you went along.

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 2:38 pm
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The more I played this guitar and attempted to fine tune its adjustments, the more I became convinced that some modifications were necessary.
I first determined that the original bridge pickup floor had to be lowered, so I ripped the guitar apart and lowered the bridge pickup floor using the forstner drill bit and some hand gouging, and then re-shielded the bridge pickup cavity.
No pictures were taken of this process, which lowered the bridge pickup in the bridge pickup cavity.

After reassembling the guitar, I still was having some sting height to pickup issues and difficulty getting the proper action with clean results at each fret.
I compared the height of the side neck fret markers to the pickguard of the double bound Tele with those on a new MIM Telecaster at a local shop, which is pictured below.

Image

Unfortunately, I forgot to take a similar picture of my double bound project Tele, but in comparison, the fret marker at the 21st fret was almost completely covered by the pickguard.
At that point I knew that the neck pocket was a little too deep in the RockAudio body, and the neck would need further shimming to bring the neck up in the neck pocket.

I decided that the best way to do this would be to uses copper tape and completely cover the neck pocket with multiple pieces.
While I have used strips of masking tape above the top neck screw holes on the neck to correct the geometry of the neck, as shown previously in this thread, I chose to use copper tape due to the thickness of the numerous strips of tape that would be needed, as I was concerned about possible deflection and movement of the neck if masking tape were used for this purpose.
In all, I used 16 pieces of copper tape as shown below, and could probably used at least 20 pieces, but this process of shimming was so tedious, that 16 was all I could deal with at the time.

Image
This brought the neck up to the level shown by the fret marker at the 21st fret, relative to the pickguard.

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Here is a view of the amount of copper tape used to raise the neck.
I haven't decided whether or not to touch-up the copper with a black Magic Marker.

Image
Now I'm sure that some of you will be wringing your hands because metal was introduced between the neck and the body, and some of you will be absorbed in the mythology that this will somehow interrupt or alter some type of critical sonic vibration transfer between the neck and the body.
And some of you will also know that I believe that any such concerns are nonsense, because modern, non-microphonic pickups, do not process wood vibration in solid body electric guitars, and such vibration has no affect on string vibration or on the audible amplified sound of the guitar.

After setting up the guitar again, I think that I have alleviated all of the subtle problems that I found after the completed build, and I am happy at this point with the setup and pickup height.
While I had the guitar apart, I decided to replace the black pickguard that I had originally used with a Fender white pearl pickguard.

Image

Image
Even with the difficulties that I encountered with this RockAudio double bound Tele body, which I have documented in this thread, I would still recommend RockAudio as a reliable and affordable supplier of Fender style bodies, which if you have patience and note the necessary alterations that I encountered in this project, can produce a really cool result.

The bottom line is that these very affordable RockAudio.com bodies, have a very nice finish and appearance, but are not "plug 'n play" and require serious attention to detail and some experimentation to realize a truly playable, quality, guitar.


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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 12:32 pm
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Mick Jagger,

I was just viewing all of great photos of your guitar build. What an excellent job you did building such a beautiful guitar. Truly a work of art. You are very talented.
I just joined the forum recently, and I probably would have missed it, but I was searching the forum for a Rutters shallow jack cup and there it was. I have a question that you might be able to advise me on. I've got a new American Deluxe Telecaster, with the jack cup that of course won't take an angle plug, so I ordered the shallow cup and I'm just awaiting delivery. My question is, do you think that I'll be able to re-use the factory jack instead of using the longer jack that you installed? And also, I'm thinking that the shallow cup would turn very little when you tap it into the guitar body. How secure is that cup in your guitar? Any tips that you might have would be appreciated.

Thanks a lot. Nice guitar!.................................Dave

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Sun May 01, 2016 1:33 pm
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Solina Dave wrote:
Mick Jagger,
I was just viewing all of great photos of your guitar build. What an excellent job you did building such a beautiful guitar. Truly a work of art. You are very talented.
I just joined the forum recently, and I probably would have missed it, but I was searching the forum for a Rutters shallow jack cup and there it was. I have a question that you might be able to advise me on. I've got a new American Deluxe Telecaster, with the jack cup that of course won't take an angle plug, so I ordered the shallow cup and I'm just awaiting delivery. My question is, do you think that I'll be able to re-use the factory jack instead of using the longer jack that you installed? And also, I'm thinking that the shallow cup would turn very little when you tap it into the guitar body. How secure is that cup in your guitar? Any tips that you might have would be appreciated.

Thanks a lot. Nice guitar!.................................Dave

Hi Solina Dave,
Thank you for the kind comments.
I'm a huge fan of the Rutters Jack Cups.
http://ruttersguitars.com/Hot_Rod_Parts.html

The "Rutters Shallow Twisted Machined Jack Cup” should work fine with the regular Switchcraft 1/4" Jack, or a stock Fender 1/4" Jack, and allow for use of an angled plug guitar cable.
The regular depth "Rutters Cup,"like the stock Fender Cup, would require the use of the longer Switchcraft "L11" Jack, in order to use an angled plug guitar cable.

The Jack Cup has a machined spiral cutting on the surface which mates with the guitar body.
Ideally, the Jack Cup will fit perfectly and you will just screw or press it into the guitar body hole and it will be secure.
But in the real world, the fit is likely to be a little tight or a little loose.
I have never used a Rutters Jack Cup in a Fender body, so I don't know what kind of fit you may expect to find.
But you will need to knock out the Fender Jack Cup Retainer Clip after removing the original Jack Cup.

I built a guitar with a Mighty Mite body where the hole was slightly too large.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=53915

If it is loose, apply a dab of superglue on two sides of the Jack Cup.
If the hole is too large to make proper contact with the Jack Cup, line the hole with thin strips of masking tape, inserted straight into the hole on one, two, or four sides of the hole, to create a snug fit.
Then apply the super glue on two sides of the Jack Cup.

If the hole is too tight, as was the case with the RockAudio guitar body shown above, I set the Jack Cup into place with a rubber mallet.
Obviously, this is a dangerous procedure that can lead to cracking the body.
Fortunately that did not happen to me.
To be on the safe side, you may want to do a little sanding with a Dremel tool or a half round file.

Hope this helps.
Good Luck!!


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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 10:12 pm
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Mick,

I appreciate the information. If I do opt to go with installing the Rutters cup, I'll be extra careful tapping it in. The alder's a softer hardwood, so it shouldn't present too much of a problem.
I'm simply looking for a suitable way to make the jack accept an angled plug. I'm not bound by having to maintain any real level of vintage integrity since it's a 2015 guitar, and at my age I don't think I'll ever need to be concerned. I was looking very seriously at a genuine Fender jack plate called a, Fender "Football" Chrome Jack Plate, available from Angela Instruments. It's a combination of a plate that's curved nicely to adapt to the edge of the guitar, and also has a shallow cup component to it. I think I might go that way. It looks good to me. I would have included a photo of it, but I don't think I'm allowed, and besides, I don't have a clue how to do it anyway. You didn't seem to have any problem attaching photos. LOL

Thanks again Mick.........................................Dave

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Post subject: Re: Complete Telecaster Build Pictoral II
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 12:02 pm
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Solina Dave wrote:
I appreciate the information. If I do opt to go with installing the Rutters cup, I'll be extra careful tapping it in....
I'm simply looking for a suitable way to make the jack accept an angled plug.

You'd think that after nearly 65 years of Telecaster production, Fender would have figured out that many, if not most Telecaster players, want to use an angled plug guitar cord with their Telecaster, and they would have modified the Telecaster accordingly at some point, either with a shallower Jack Cup, or with a longer output Jack. :idea:
Solina Dave wrote:
...I was looking very seriously at a genuine Fender jack plate called a, Fender "Football" Chrome Jack Plate, available from Angela Instruments. It's a combination of a plate that's curved nicely to adapt to the edge of the guitar, and also has a shallow cup component to it. I think I might go that way.

You could go that way and it's a lot cheaper than the Rutter Jack Cup.
However, you sacrifice the original "Fender look" of the guitar that the Rutter Jack Cup generally provides.
Without close inspection, no one would know that you were using a Rutter Jack Cup, and the integrity of machined aluminum is in my opinion, a lot nicer looking than a chrome steel plate, screwed to the guitar.
But at $30.00, a Rutter Jack Cup isn't cheap.
That being said, I think the Rutter Jack Cups are the best Jack Cups for Telecaster style guitars that are on the market.

Here's a "Football" Chrome Jack Plate that is even a little cheaper than the one you were looking at.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-1-4-Oval ... 2162313235

Solina Dave wrote:
I would have included a photo of it, but I don't think I'm allowed, and besides, I don't have a clue how to do it anyway.

You are certainly allowed to post pictures or web page links for illustration purposes.
However, a web page link or eBay link should not be used to promote your personal web site or your personal eBay sale items, or be used to repeatedly promote sales for another eBay merchant.

To post a picture:
1) Establish a free Photobucket.com account;
2) Save a picture from your phone or camera to your computer;
3) Upload the picture from your computer to Photobucket;
4) Copy the "IMG" link beside your picture on Photobucket by clicking on it;
5) Paste the "IMG" link in your Fender Lounge post.


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