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Post subject: 62 ri neck onto mim tele
Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 1:15 pm
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hi yall, love this place, had to join as i need some help

I have a MIM tele which ive completely modded to how i love it and the last step was the neck.
i bought a 62RI MIJ neck with rosewood fretboard. Bolted it on no problem. lined up fine.
Strung it up. Now i know i would need to work with the saddles and changing string length etc etc to get the intonations right and all, but when playing it its pretty much all . first few frets, up to the 5th, play fine. Im not a complete newb when it comes to this, but i would like some steps to follow to get this playable again before i take it to a local guy, as i really enjoy learning and would love to be able to solve problems like this in the future, in my own home. Im hoping it mostly falls to the fact of needing to adjust the truss rod.
Im open to all nuggets of wisdom, and thanks. I can tell I already love this new neck and cant wait to get it back up on stage.


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Post subject: Re: 62 ri neck onto mim tele
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:06 am
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So what is your actual problem? The string height too high? Intonation is off? Often when swapping out necks, I have noticed the neck needs to be shimmed to get the proper pitch/angle so the bridge saddles can adjust the string height without using too little or too much of the grub screw adjustment. Need more info on what is actually wrong. :)


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Post subject: Re: 62 ri neck onto mim tele
Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:08 am
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thanks for reply! sorry for lack of better details. The action is way too low from about the 9th fret on up. perfect action from first fret to 9th.


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Post subject: Re: 62 ri neck onto mim tele
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 2:18 pm
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lovesmiley wrote:
I bought a 62RI MIJ neck with rosewood fretboard. Bolted it on no problem. lined up fine.
Strung it up. Now i know i would need to work with the saddles and changing string length etc etc to get the intonations right and all, but when playing it its pretty much all . first few frets, up to the 5th, play fine. I'm not a complete newb when it comes to this, but i would like some steps to follow to get this playable again before i take it to a local guy, as i really enjoy learning and would love to be able to solve problems like this in the future, in my own home. I'm hoping it mostly falls to the fact of needing to adjust the truss rod.

...sorry for lack of better details. The action is way too low from about the 9th fret on up. perfect action from first fret to 9th.

Here's how to set-up your guitar.

I assume that your neck appears to be straight when you sight down the neck and not "back-bowed". If it is back-bowed, with the strings tuned, adjust your truss rod counter clockwise until the neck appears to be straight when you sight down the edges of the neck. The truss rod should NOT be used to attempt to adjust the action or string height. The truss rod adjustment is to make the neck straight.

If you have adjusted the neck to have a forward bow, in attempting to correct this problem, readjust the truss rod so that the neck appears to be basically straight when the strings are in tune and you sight down the edges of the neck.

Your bridge saddles may already be roughly in the proper intonation position. But if you have removed the bridge, or just wish to check the initial bridge saddle position, here is what you do. To initially set your bridge saddle intonation, measure down the neck from the bottom of the nut to 25 1/2" with a tape measure. This is where the High E bridge saddle contact point should be located. 25 1/2" from the bottom of the nut is where the High E bridge saddle should contact the High E string.

If you have individual bridge saddles for each string, initially stagger the B string saddle backward about the width of the B string from the High E saddle location. Then stagger the G string saddle back from the B string saddle location about the width of the G string.

The D string bridge saddle should initially be placed more forward, but about the width of the D string back from the 25 1/2" position of the High E string. Then stagger the A string saddle back from the D string saddle location by the width of the A string. Finally, stagger the Low E saddle back from the position of the A saddle by the width of the Low E string.

If you have barrel saddles, adjust the saddles in a generally corresponding fashion, keyed to the 25 1/2" position High E string saddle location. This will give you an initial intonation starting point.

Next, make sure that your bridge saddles are adjusted to a reasonable height. If the string height is still too low and the frets buzz, and the neck is straight, then you will need to shim the neck forward. You need to have the top of the neck to lean further forward, relative to the base of the neck, in order to raise the string height. But first make sure that the Fender micro adjustment in your guitar body at the neck plate (if applicable) is completely released, and is not tilting the neck backward.

This is my approach to shimming the neck forward.

Release the tension of the strings and unbolt the neck. Get some masking tape. Cut a piece of masking tape that is the width of the neck and about 1/4" wide. Put the strip of masking tape at the top of the bolt-in portion of the neck, near the top screw holes on the neck so that it will contact the top of the neck pocket in the body. Do not cover the screw holes with the tape. Put the neck back on.

Make sure when you tighten the neck screws that the distance from both the high E and low E strings to both edges of the neck, is approximately the same distance on both sides near the base of the neck, so that you are sure that the neck is set perpendicular to the bridge and that the nut is parallel to the bridge. Then tune the guitar. Check each string for fret buzz at each fret. If the strings buzz and are still too low, repeat the process.

You will find that single strips of masking tape will make a big difference in the string height. So while it may be a pain in the asss, you need to reassemble and test the guitar strings after each single strip of masking tape that you apply to the neck. When you get close to the action you want, you can make final adjustments to the height of the bridge saddles.

This approach should get you to an acceptable string height, with an acceptable bridge height, with proper action, without fret buzz. A minimal buzz at one or two frets, on one or two strings, may not be noticeable when the guitar is plugged in, and the action at that point may be more preferable than continuing to raise the string level with additional shims, or by raising the bridge saddles.

With individual bridge saddles for each string, each string saddle should be adjusted with the 2 alan key adjustment screws so that each saddle sits level. The six bridge saddles should also be adjusted so that the height of the saddle adjustments are proportionate to the fretboard radius curvature, with the D and G string saddles adjusted the highest and the High and Low E sting saddles adjusted the lowest. Similar adjustment is made to brass 3 barrel bridge saddles, relative to the fretboard radius curvature.

If you are using a bridge that that does not have individual bridge saddles for each string, and if you are using a non-compensated, brass 3 barrel bridge, the intonation adjustment will always be a compromise between the open sting tuning and 12th fret tuning, between strings, since each string does not have an independently adjustable bridge saddle.

Adjusting the Intonation

After you have assured that your neck is straight, and the string height and bridge height is adjusted without fret buzzing, with acceptable action, re-tune the guitar. To adjust the intonation, depress each string at the 12th fret and check the 12th fret note tuning. The tuning for each string at the 12th fret should be the same as the tuning of each open string.

With new strings that have been fully stretched out and tuned, depress each string at the 12th fret and check the tuning at the 12th fret. If the 12th fret note is sharp (higher) in comparison to the open string note, lengthen the string length by moving the bridge saddle backward by tightening the adjustment screw. If the note is flat (lower) in comparison to the open string note, shorten the string length by moving the bridge saddle forward by loosening the adjustment screw.

After each movement of the bridge saddle, re-tune the string or stings affected and again test the intonation at the 12th fret. Repeat the process until the open string notes and the 12th fret notes for each string are as closely in tune as possible. Now your intonation is correct.

If you have followed all of this very closely, and are willing to commit even more time and patience to adjusting your guitar, than I've committed in writing these instructions, then there should be no need to for you to take your guitar to anyone for any further adjustment. You should be capable of setting-up your own guitars for the rest of your life. It's not rocket science. The intonation should be checked after every string change and periodically.

Good Luck!!!


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