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Post subject: Unexpected Buzz!
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:03 pm
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Hey guys. I'm a little puzzled at the minute. I picked up my Classic Series 72 Custom RI the other day while I was putting her in the case for rehearsal and suddenly, out of nowhere it would seem I'm getting horrible fret buzz but only on the 3rd fret on the low E/6th.

I'm at a loss as to how. Could any of you guys please tell me am I dealing with the saddles here or the truss rod. Truss rods I wont go near on my own and I can't stand having to set the saddles for length OR height cos its a 3 saddle guitar and that just opens a whole can of worms intonation-wise but I will attempt that myself.

Cheers!

CC

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Post subject:
Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 2:46 am
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some of my gitars move with the change from hot damp wether to dry cold wether. usually a tweak of the truss rod is all it takes to reset it the way i like it.what you need is a stewart mcdonald straight edge thats notched to get down on the wood . that gives a true reading of neck straightness . once thats done then you check frets with a regular straight edge. just loosen the truss rod a bit should do it.


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Post subject:
Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:34 pm
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Yes it's the trust rod. Saddles or bridge don't move by itself, truss rod, yes.

Do like amx write, It's a good investment, or loose a little bit your trust rod nut. Turn counter clockwise ONLY 1/10 of a turn. Wait couple hours before the truss rod have is new settig
If better, but not ok, turn another 1/10 turn.


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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 4:18 am
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CC

Don't waste your money on the stewmac rubbish mate. It's way overpriced at $72. I knocked two up in 10 minutes for £3.50 out of a aluminium rule.
People will no doubt say it's not as accurate. That too is a fallacy. How can they guarantee the same degree of straightness out of the lacquer on their fretboard they expect from the rule.
Like all stewmac products it's overpriced nonsense that you can buy a lot cheaper if you look at you're local diy shop.

Anyways it's not applicable in this case and where you're at with being willing to make adjustments to your guitar. It only has one real application, checking fretlevel across the whole neck. In this case you don't need it. Truss adjustments are set to your frettops as that is what you play on, you don't actually play on the fretboard. Therefore checking neck relief to your strings fretted at the 1st and 21st is as accurate as you need to be for relief adjustments. So long as you're not stoning frets flat.
Living in the same climate as you, I can tell you from experience that I wouldnt suspect the neck relief. Truss rods only move the neck at the headstock end on a guitar. They don't actually put any bow in the neck but rather resist the wood bowing naturally under tension of the strings. Thats why people do truss settings with the guitar fully strung. Truss rods only really move the 1st couple of frets worth of neck. The bow happens because the moving end (headstock) has altered position in relation to the fixed point (heel).
That said it's very highly unlikely that your trussrod has increased in tension, which would cause those first few frets to buzz, by forcing the headstock back. Also you'd notice the problem on the 1st and 2nd frets too. If the trussrod had slipped, it would increase the bow of the neck and thereby take the string further away from the frets. You'd really notice the change in intonation on the low frets too, as you would in effect increase string height and the break angle of the string onto the fretboard at the nut. That said, fast climate and humidity changes just don't happen in our corner of the world. Aside from a weird bazzaar guitar lp copy with weird neck wood, I've never seen a rapid neck bow change without adjusting the rod.
It's far more probable that you have knocked the 4th fret loose or put a ding in the 3rd fret. All you need to check such is a 3" straight edge. Run it over the 1st,2nd,3rd frets to see if the 3rd fret has dropped. It will rock as you put pressure on the 3rd fret side. In effect it will seesaw on the 2nd fret.
Move the straightedge along to the 3rd,4th,5th frets and see if the straightedge seesaws on the 4th fret. Do it with the strings on so you can follow the line of the E string.


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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 4:34 am
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Don't waste your money on the stewmac rubbish mate. It's way overpriced at $72. I knocked two up in 10 minutes for £3.50 out of a aluminium rule.
People will no doubt say it's not as accurate. That too is a fallacy. How can they guarantee the same degree of straightness out of the lacquer on their fretboard they expect from the rule.
Like all stewmac products it's overpriced nonsense that you can buy a lot cheaper if you look at you're local diy shop.

_______nikininja


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I don't agree with you


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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 5:18 am
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Well mate thats your right, you don't have to agree.

However it is a simple fact that Dan Erlewine would tell you the sky is green if he thought it would sell more tools.

When I saw the email offering that neck straightedge I noticed also he said 'nothing sounds like a perfectly straight neck under tension'. He was trying to make out that a straight neck, fret buzz and all is somehow better than a neck with proper relief.
That was his whole sales pitch for selling that $72 rule.

So guess what, I tried it.

First I set my baja tele neck perfectly straight. It sounded terrible with a halfway acceptable action. So I guess he was right, nothing sounded like that. Completely unacceptable.
Then I set the neck relief into the fret tops. A perfect .012" curved dip into the fret level. Guess what, absolutely no tonal difference at all from the guitars normal well set up state.
Erlewine may know his stuff but he has no credibility round here because he lies to sell overpriced tools.
If you want to buy em thats your lookout. I'll carry on saving my money.

Wonder what people did to level frets before he bought out that $72 rule?

How straight is the lacquer on your fretboard anyways?


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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 5:52 am
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I have the straight edge witch go on top off the fret and it work well.
I found the straight edge you can buy at hardware stores are too soft, it move on the fret board.

I found with this good tool that I can adjust more accuratly my trus rod, my neck curve, and it can move little bit without no buzz, because I'm in in the center, the right adjustment, not in border.

I agree that lots of money for a piece of steel, same as many things in this world like Gibson lesPaul, custom shop tubes amps and many many more.

What people do before buying Stew mac straight edge ?
Same question when people live without cell phone , computer. Live was different, all work take more time and everything was ...innacurate.


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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:09 am
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No mate, we used notched aluminium rules before this thing came out.


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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:28 am
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Had the same problem, more or less, with my EJ Strat. Just go through the set up procedure in your manual (or download the procedure from Fender web site) and you should be able to improve the set up on most any guitar (other than custom shop issues).

You will need a set of feeler gauges that includes a .010" and a small 6" precision ruler that has 64th" increments. Can get both at an auto parts store or home cheapo store for less than $25.

The first time I did this, it took me a couple of tries to get it right. Just follow the procedure and specs to the letter. Make sure to tune after every step.


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Post subject:
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 1:14 pm
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Sorry its taken me so long to get back to you guys. Haven't been on here much. Thanks very much for the advice. The problem still persists and I'll be sorting it over the weekend. Cheers.

CC

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Marshall 70's JMP Superbass 100w
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