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Post subject: Truss Rod - Maximum tightened and neck still have relief!
Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 3:12 pm
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The truss rod on my 62 AVRI Custom Tele is as tight as it will go, and I still have relief. I have read that I can put a spacer in between the truss nut and that rod and get a little more tightening space. Is this true? Will it work in vintage style neck?

Share your opinion, please.. Thank you beforehand!


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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:54 am
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If there is a guitar repair shop near you I would take it in and let them look at it. If the truss rod is as tight as it will go then you may be approaching an area where you might damage the neck.

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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 8:10 am
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Also, how much time has passed since you tightened it? Truss rod adjustments need time to take effect...some say wait as little as 30 minutes, some say wait overnight, then check it and re-adjust it. I hope you just didn't turn it, instantly measure or check it, then instantly turn it again...You need to give it time for the adjustment to actually start taking effect.

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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:54 am
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If the truss rod is as tight as it will go then you may be approaching an area where you might damage the neck.

Yes I know it. To continue to tighten the truss rod seems to me dangerous..
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Also, how much time has passed since you tightened it?

Approximately 6 months ago and it still in this position.
Quote:
You need to give it time for the adjustment to actually start taking effect.

Maybe.. But the necks on another guitars that I had has became stable at once after rod adjustments


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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 12:33 pm
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6 months is more than enough time...Perhaps its time to seek professional help?

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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 1:59 pm
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Quote:
Perhaps its time to seek professional help?

Yes, I plan to visit repairman when my purse will allow me to do it ))

But before I'd like to ask experienced people who had similar problem with their guitars. And also that the most important thing - how they had solved it.

Also I've read about refretting. The method - installing the frets with the larger tang.

Quote:
Necks with far too much relief can sometimes be fixed by planeing and compression fretting. The use of fret wire with a larger tang causes a wedging effect and is sometimes enough to straighten or stiffen a neck.


Source - http://fretnotguitarrepair.com

What's your opinions?


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Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 5:45 am
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There should always be some relief in the neck when it is adjusted properly. Is the amount of relief excessive on your guitar?

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Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 2:44 pm
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There should always be some relief in the neck when it is adjusted properly. Is the amount of relief excessive on your guitar?

With the 10-46 that I'm using I have normal relief, feels comfortable enough. But with the seasons change, as I've noticed, frets slightly "get out" from fretboard and the relief becomes more concave. As I know It may be caused by humidity balance and temperatures.. So, if I'll wish to tighten the rod to straighten the relief, I can't do it - rod tightened to the last.. Ok, at this point I can solve the problem by compressing the frets again. But all the same - this neck seems unable to serious adjusting if it will need it. And this is the most bad thing.

Simply put, I might buy a new neck for my guitar, if I had enough money. On Ebay I've seen only two necks for this model. Both slightly used. $400-500 (if I win it) excluding shipping cost to my country.. And this new replacement neck can be worse than my stock. Not good idea anyway..

Therefore I'm thinking about alternatives how to make stock neck on my guitar more stable..


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Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 5:20 am
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Are you checking neck relief by measuring the distance by fretting the 1st and 17th fret then checking the gap between the top of the 8th fret and the underside of the fretted string?

If so the problem could just be bad fret level. You may be better off to make yourself something like this
Image

Its simply a 38inch aliminium ruler. I cut it down to the length of the neck. Marked each side of every fret then cut a notch out where the fret will fit in. I use it to measure fret board flatness. When I'm satisfied the fretboard is flat i use the other side to check that frets are flat.

Image

Thats my Baja tele after having some quite extensive fretwork done to it. I set the neck straight, put the .010" neck relief in the frets instead of the neck. I did this because dan erlewine said theres no tone like a perfectly straight neck under tension. Well thats nonsense in my book so I tried it but didnt want the fret buzz that comes with having a straight neck. So I put the curve in the line of the frets.

Anyway to cut a long story short, I was right. The statement is utter codswallop. So i re leveled the frets and put the bow in the neck, where its meant to be.

Its the best, easiest way I've found of checking neck bow and fret line.

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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 12:29 pm
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Generally, when a guitar has .10s on it, and the guitar has sat for a few days with the strings at pitch, you can check the truss rod by doing the following. (Please remember one never wants a "straight" neck! It should be slightly concave to play right.)

Put a capo on the 1st fret and then hold the string down on the last fret (21st or 22nd) and check the distance between the string and the fret at the 8th fret. It should be around a .010 to .012 depending on the radius. Here is what Fender recommends:

Neck Radius / Relief
7.25" / .012" (0.3 mm)
9.5" to 12" / .010" (0.25 mm)
15" to 17" / .008" (0.2 mm)

I usually set my guitars just a little lower and then file and polish offending frets about the 12th to get it to play with really low action. On my Strats used for Blues, I have the relief and action set just a little higher to grab the strings better.

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Xhefri's Guitars
http://www.xhefriguitars.com/


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