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Post subject: tele bridge replacement
Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 10:23 pm
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i have a new mim tele and i'm trying to change out the bridge to a vintage 3-saddle, it fits perfectly and all the holes match up, but when i tighten the screws to hold the bridge on, it seems to make the opposite end of the bridge point up pretty far from the body. any suggestions???


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Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 10:32 am
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Don't tighten the screws so much.

Seriously.

I've made this same swap a couple of times. The MIM Standard bridge screws will stick up slightly when using a vintage-style bridge.

I ordered a Fender '52 Reissue bridge from www.angela.com and it came with four slot-head screws that were slightly smaller. I was able to screw those down flush with no problem but the stock screws that come with the thicker MIM Standard bridge have bigger heads and will cause the problem you're having unless you don't crank them down all the way.


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Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 10:40 am
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Welcome to the forum speedbump182! See how friendly and knowledgeable our members are! :wink:


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Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 4:21 pm
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An expression I learned from another forum is "farmer tight". (With apologies to farmers everywhere)

There is a tendency with a lot of non-technical and non-mechanical folks is to crank the screws down as tight as possible, then tap them with a hammer and try to screw them down even more. Results are destroyed fasteners, damaged threads (on both the screws and the mounting unit) and warped fittings.

I'm not saying you over-torqued it, But I would be really tempted to pull that bridge off and put it on a true, flat surface, say a piece of glass if nothing else and see if it's now flat.

You don't need 'farmer tight'. Put the screws in loose, all of them(!), find the current threads and tighten them down half way, every one of them. Then tighten each one to the first little bit of resistance. Then tighten them all down till they're "one-handed" firm. That's it, put up the screwdriver and start playing!

On a side note, while you've got the bright off. I remember reading that some guitarists will scrape all the paint away down to bare wood under such items as the bridge. Claims the paint is sound deadening and direct wood-to-metal contact sounds better. Think I heard Eric Johnson does this. Can anyone say yay or nay on this>


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Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 12:41 pm
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raeldridge wrote:
Think I heard Eric Johnson does this. Can anyone say yay or nay on this>


Think so too....but again not quite sure.
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Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:25 pm
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Not meaning to sound like a jerk here, but why would you want to switch to the 3 saddle bridge, aside from looks...doesnt the 3 saddle bridge make them near-impossible to intonate? do they give a better tone with the 3-saddle? in all seriousness. =)


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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:15 pm
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indianamike wrote:
Not meaning to sound like a jerk here, but why would you want to switch to the 3 saddle bridge, aside from looks...doesnt the 3 saddle bridge make them near-impossible to intonate? do they give a better tone with the 3-saddle? in all seriousness. =)


yes it is harder to intonate but I use the Jerry Donahue method (found in link below) and it seems to work fine.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/ch ... e_up_your/


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Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 1:26 pm
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hey...crazy idea, but what kind of bridge and guitar are you trying to put together? Is everything factory Fender?


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Posted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 10:54 am
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Thats the first time I've herd of that problem and I've installed two on both of my MIMs but in any event I'd try what gerorge suggested and not tighten them as much. i have also seen some tele bridges that have had screw holes so you can screw the top part into the body.

https://www.premierguitar.com/Stream/St ... _Type=full

callaham also makes one as well plus a few others.


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