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Post subject: Buying my first tele
Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 10:02 am
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Aspiring Musician
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Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2010 9:53 pm
Posts: 349
I am looking to buy my first telecaster. How difficult is it to intonate the 3 barrel bridges? Just curious is if I should avoid a model with one or not.


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Post subject: Re: Buying my first tele
Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 11:20 am
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Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 4:31 am
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Location: Province de Québec, Canada
Not too difficult, you must do a compromise , tuning is not 100 % perfect.
You can buy compensated barrels.

I have 2 Tele , one with 3 barrel saddles and one with 6 barrels
3 barrels are a vintage tele wit 7,25 neck radius.
I like more the 9.5 radius, "easier" to play. Choose this one


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Post subject: Re: Buying my first tele
Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 11:45 am
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Aspiring Musician
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Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2010 9:53 pm
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Quote:
I like more the 9.5 radius, "easier" to play. Choose this one


I definitely prefer the 9 1/2" radius. I have my eye on this one at the moment.

https://www.guitarcenter.com/Fender/Special-Edition-Deluxe-Ash-Telecaster.gc


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Post subject: Re: Buying my first tele
Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 3:28 pm
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Location: SoCal, US
I like the idea of the compensated barrels, and that's what I'm using on my Partscaster build.
Either way, you're going to have to compromise.
Intonate one string and note how many cents off the other one is.
Then intonate the other one and note how many cents off the first one is.
Adjust so that both are off by a similar amount.
At that point, you're going to be closer than anyone is ever going to be able to hear, and then only if you are playing chords in the higher neck positions.
For solos, you can always slightly bend to sharpen a note, and for long "singing" sustaining notes where being out of tune would be noticed most, you're likely bending into that or running a vibrato which will mask it.

But the compensated saddles help. Personally, I like those that are cut so the strings hit at different points. I never cared for the type that is drilled at an angle, they just don't look right.
By theory, the difference in the contact point between two strings will be the difference in diameter, so for a set of 10-46, your B would generally be .003 behind the E, and the G would generally be .004 behind the B.
The D being wound would step back up to somewhere around the B or E, then the A would generally be .010 behind the D, and the E would generally be .010 behind the A.

This is how fixed, compensated acoustic and jazz bridges are designed.

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