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Post subject: Bridge block issue
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 1:22 pm
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Still learning so don't yell too loud :?

My American Standard has always been setup for 9's and decided to change to 10's last night after hearing how much warmer they were. I'm not great at maintenance but am learning. I understand the bridge, intonation and truss rod might/would need adjusting with the heavier gauge strings.

First thing I noticed was the bridge was pulled way too far forward. So I released tension from the strings, adjusted the claw screws clockwise a few turns and retuned. Did this back and forth until I had the standard 1/8" clearance between the body and the butt of the bridge. One thing I noticed is when I look at the bridge block (where the strings are inserted) from the rear cut-away is that it is slightly cocked; it's not parallel to the body. The claw screws/plate are even. I'm assuming this is from the tension by the strings. I guess I've never really paid attention to the "position" of that bridge block. Is that normal or should that bridge block be straight across and parallel to the body?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Post subject: Re: Bridge block issue
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 1:38 pm
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I think I have mine straight but will check again!
One of your trem claw screws may be adjusted more than the other resulting in the offset but when you think about the physics and more tension on the heavier strings...
Check for clearance and make sure the bridge is sitting correctly in the pivots.
Having said that some guys (e.g. Carl Verheyen) swear that the claw should have that compensation and angle and adjust their guitars accordingly.
There is an article out there somewhere about it! :D


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Post subject: Re: Bridge block issue
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 3:34 pm
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Fender has instructions on it's website, but this one provides a little more information...http://diystrat.blogspot.com/2011/08/setting-up-or-adjusting-stratocaster.html

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Post subject: Re: Bridge block issue
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 6:18 pm
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Not sure what you are asking :?:

You mean perpendicular ? which your bridge block is when in relation to the body fore and aft. Either way you view it the block is at a perpendicular angle to the body ( approximately 80-95 degrees ).
The block can only be at a 90 degree angle to the body when the bridge is horizontally flush with the top of the body, screwed down and full tension on the springs.
The 6 screws or two point bridge is the fulcrum point. Everything else is going to swing in a radius depending on the tension of springs versus strings... If your trem is adjusted correctly for use then the block is going to be at an angle since it is the furthest from the fulcrum point.

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Post subject: Re: Bridge block issue
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 7:12 pm
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Yeah I may have misunderstood what the OP was saying.
I thought he meant when viewed from the back the block was on an angle compared to the trem cutout ...like when viewed from the back the block is like this / or this \ wrt the cutout slot
Naturally there will always be an angle if viewed side on if the back of the bridge is elevated1/8th
:D


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Post subject: Re: Bridge block issue
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:47 pm
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My gratitude everyone. I'm 40 and sometimes things don't sink in as quickly as they use to. I got it figured out. Helps to have the proper feeler gauges. I was still way too high (over 1/8"). Started over and a few online tutorials later...all is well.

Now onto adjusting intonation :? , Ahhh, the joys of learning.

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ShawnB

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