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Post subject: Re: Fender Plus 1989 Torino Red
Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 11:54 am
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nachobijou wrote:
Just curious, after removing the neck, I have noticed that the date appearing on the body and the neck is 1989, and a signature H. Gastelum (anyone really know if that was a person of quality control or if the firm means more ......??).

See the link on Herb Castelum: That Other Forum


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Post subject: Re: Fender Plus 1989 Torino Red
Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 3:41 am
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I had a nice '93 Candy Apple Red Strat Plus/Ultra with a Maple neck crafted by Herb Gastelum. See my signature pic on the left. Now owned by Norwegian musician Ketil Stokkan.

He (Herb) worked on quite a few necks and as the fascinating article jmattis linked to points out, he's in the Custom Shop now.

So you could say he's "a person of quality". :D

As far as the Tremolo Block there's a big difference in the material it's made of. In my "Glossy Relic" build I replaced a Hwy One with a Callaham (neither was tapered) and it made a big difference. Of course I was replacing a budget model Bridge. Or maybe my ears were trying to justify the expense! :lol:

I'm doing a build now, I call the "Hot Rod Brownie", starting with a Fender '50s Hot Rod Reissue Vintage body and it came with a tapered block that's as heavy as anything I've ever handled at 1lb 2oz w/Plate and Saddles as pictured.

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Post subject: Hipshot tremsetter
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:41 pm
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Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2012 8:27 pm
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Good again.
After several days trying to adjust bridge with Hipshot Tremsetter system, so I think it is a fairly good level. I have to say it is not easy and that the zero position of Hipshot is quite noticeable when using the tremolo bar.
Anyone know how to configure it properly so that the zero position not feel when the tremolo bar is used ?.

Hipshot leave a picture of Tremsetter system disarmed

Image

Thanks in advance, greetings


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Post subject: Re: Hipshot tremsetter
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:28 am
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Aspiring Musician
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Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2014 2:07 pm
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nachobijou wrote:
Good again.
After several days trying to adjust bridge with Hipshot Tremsetter system, so I think it is a fairly good level. I have to say it is not easy and that the zero position of Hipshot is quite noticeable when using the tremolo bar.
Anyone know how to configure it properly so that the zero position not feel when the tremolo bar is used ?.

Hipshot leave a picture of Tremsetter system disarmed

Image

Thanks in advance, greetings


I removed the trem setter from my '91 Strat Plus Dlx within it's first year.
I didn't like it.

I blocked the trem for the past 2 decades and a couple of months ago I decided to put it back in action. But, there were only 2 springs and it caused some issues, a warbling tone if I plucked a note harder.
So, I got a Fender vintage spring set with 5 nickle springs and a claw.
I also splurged and got a 5 spring set of "raw vintage" spring just to hear if there is a difference.
With the Fender vintage springs the tone improved over the 2 spring set up.
I tried with with the trem all the way flat against the body and with a floating usable trem. It sounds good either way. Hard flat against the body does seem to have a bit more resonate tone, and in floating trem set up there is a bit more brightness.
Sounds good either way.
Then I installed the raw vintage springs and there is a bit of a difference, but I don't know if I can call it a "revelation" in tone.
The Fender vintage springs are really nice in comparison and half the cost.

Try removing the trem setting and get a nice set of nickle springs and try 3, 4, or 5 springs to hear what you like.
You can add more springs and/or screw the claw in farther to get the springs to pull harder and try the trem tight against the body, and then adjust the springs looser to let the trem float, and decide which way you like it.
The only way to know is to give it a try. :)

I too am considering a thicker/denser trem block to hear if there is a difference.
So far I really like the raw vintage springs, but the Fender vintage springs are really nice too. You'll need a full size claw either way if you want to add more springs.
And, you'll have to reset/solder the ground wire to the new claw, not a difficult job at all. If you don't have a soldering iron you can temporarily strip a bit of the ground wire covering and wrap it around one of the screws, there is more room using the screw that is closer to where the wire exists in the cavity.
In my Strat there is plenty of ground wire to do this.
If you have an iron, then the best and proper way is to solder it to the claw.


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Post subject: Re: Fender Plus 1989 Torino Red
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 5:32 am
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IF you want to keep your tremsetter, trying to explain how to set one up by a message on the forum is kind of hard. I like these devices and most people who do not like them have them set up wrong. There is a YouTube video by the guy who makes these and he shows a simple step by step process on how to set them up. I can do it about 3 minutes. Go to YouTube and search for "hipshot tremsetter."

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Post subject: Re: Fender Plus 1989 Torino Red
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 10:40 pm
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Aspiring Musician
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Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2014 2:07 pm
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Xhefri wrote:
IF you want to keep your tremsetter, trying to explain how to set one up by a message on the forum is kind of hard. I like these devices and most people who do not like them have them set up wrong. There is a YouTube video by the guy who makes these and he shows a simple step by step process on how to set them up. I can do it about 3 minutes. Go to YouTube and search for "hipshot tremsetter."


I remember trying to set it years and years ago and just didn't like it.
You're probably correct in that I didn't know how to set it correctly.
Main reason I took it out is because I decided to block the trem.


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Post subject: Re: Fender Plus 1989 Torino Red
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 8:56 am
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Good again.
The truth is that I have time to search the Internet, in fact the video mentioned is what helped me set it up correctly. And in my opinion proper activation adjust it. My question was whether once adjusted always going to feel that zero point or if instead someone has adjusted and could reduce the feeling of engagement that creates the zero point.
I guess if you can not reduce that feeling will get used to it. It's a bit annoying but the truth is that the system itself seems to work quite well, included with the repetitive use of the tremolo bar and constant practice with bendings.

I keep trying, but I'm very happy with the guitar. It sounds and plays great. :D


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Post subject: Re: Fender Plus 1989 Torino Red
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 9:21 am
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nachobijou wrote:
Good again.
The truth is that I have time to search the Internet, in fact the video mentioned is what helped me set it up correctly. And in my opinion proper activation adjust it. My question was whether once adjusted always going to feel that zero point or if instead someone has adjusted and could reduce the feeling of engagement that creates the zero point.
I guess if you can not reduce that feeling will get used to it. It's a bit annoying but the truth is that the system itself seems to work quite well, included with the repetitive use of the tremolo bar and constant practice with bendings.

I keep trying, but I'm very happy with the guitar. It sounds and plays great. :D

Hey Nachobijou, you should not feel a zero point. Maybe there is just a little slack in the springs. In other words, there should not be a gap at all between the area that moves and the big spring and the small one that slides. Sometimes people get a small gap there and you can feel when it hits.There is a a white plastic part where the two springs meet and when in neutral position it should be tight at that location.

Image

One other thing people do not mention is the tremolo post height. If you examine the bridge you will see the area that rests on the post tapers down to a thin edge (knife edge). When there are no strings on the guitar and the bridge is resting flush on top the body, that knife edge should line up perfectly with the notch on the post. When setting up a guitar, I always lay the bridge flat in the body with no springs attached. Then I push it up against the posts and look carefully, adjusting the posts till the knife blade is perfectly in the middle of the post notch. If this is not done the bridge can drag on the top of the body if too low, creating a weird feeling and affecting the performance. If too high, it will mess up your string height adjustment.

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