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Post subject: Re: Neck Pocket Gap between Body - NOT SIDES
Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 1:36 am
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bad neck/body contact... the guitar's gonna sound like crap. Period.

Are you saying every guitar with a neck shim sounds like crap when amplified..?

In my experience, sometimes quite the opposite. Especially Jazzmasters, Jaguars, but in fact some Teles, Strats (...) also benefit from shimming (>> increased neck angle >> increased tension on the saddles >> better resonation transfer >> better sound, sustain).


Last edited by jmattis on Sat Oct 11, 2014 2:02 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post subject: Re: Neck Pocket Gap between Body - NOT SIDES
Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 2:01 am
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@analogtapecombo, looked at your pics and now I'm wondering. The MZ-serial number would make the body a 2001/2002, but the stamp in the neck pocket says 1996.
Discrepansies between manufactured/assembled dates are common, but five years seem a bit odd. Did you ask for/get any explanation?

BTW, are there three round, coin sized holes (like the one in the neck pocket) in the body below the pickup cavities?


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Post subject: Re: Neck Pocket Gap between Body - NOT SIDES
Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 7:43 am
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Looking at the pictures , it looks like the neck is too WIDE for the body pocket , which seems to start rounding into the Mickey Mouse ears too early for that neck , resulting in the start of the round stopping the neck seating further towards the body

Image

I would dremel the corners out till the neck "bottoms out", then dowel and then re drill the neck while it is then seated into the body . The pickguard would also need a little removing to fit properly (I have done this successfully with a file and then wet and dry to smooth the final edge)

Intonation shouldn't be a problem , as most bridges will give you quite a lot of leeway , although before doing any more, I'd measure you would still have enough leeway to intonate properly

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Post subject: Re: Neck Pocket Gap between Body - NOT SIDES
Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 8:31 am
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[quote="ted j"
I would dremel the corners out till the neck "bottoms out", then dowel and then re drill the neck while it is then seated into the body . The pickguard would also need a little removing to fit properly (I have done this successfully with a file and then wet and dry to smooth the final edge)

Intonation shouldn't be a problem , as most bridges will give you quite a lot of leeway ,
Sorry , not in my opinion , check carefully .

although before doing any more, I'd measure you would still have enough leeway to intonate properly[/quote]


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Post subject: Re: Neck Pocket Gap between Body - NOT SIDES
Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 9:17 am
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Did I not just say in my post to check leeway on intonation before doing anything?

Looking at the picture, it looks like the neck would be less than 1/8th of an inch further towards the bridge , most bridges will accomodate that

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Post subject: Re: Neck Pocket Gap between Body - NOT SIDES
Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:40 am
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jmattis wrote:
@analogtapecombo, looked at your pics and now I'm wondering. The MZ-serial number would make the body a 2001/2002, but the stamp in the neck pocket says 1996.
Discrepansies between manufactured/assembled dates are common, but five years seem a bit odd. Did you ask for/get any explanation?

BTW, are there three round, coin sized holes (like the one in the neck pocket) in the body below the pickup cavities?



Yes it has the CAD machine marks here's a full body shot, safe for work of course :lol: It only has one unlike the 3, but I understand this is common. So can we quash the not a fender/mim body theory?

http://imgur.com/PAGejyX

As for the age discrepancy, the neck pocket has both a 96 and 2001 stamp while the neck serialis a 2001. Might've just hung around for awhile, post the 94/95 factory fire perhaps? Not sure


Last edited by analogtapecombo on Sat Oct 11, 2014 11:00 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Post subject: Re: Neck Pocket Gap between Body - NOT SIDES
Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:41 am
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ted j wrote:
Looking at the pictures , it looks like the neck is too WIDE for the body pocket , which seems to start rounding into the Mickey Mouse ears too early for that neck , resulting in the start of the round stopping the neck seating further towards the body

Image

I would dremel the corners out till the neck "bottoms out", then dowel and then re drill the neck while it is then seated into the body . The pickguard would also need a little removing to fit properly (I have done this successfully with a file and then wet and dry to smooth the final edge)

Intonation shouldn't be a problem , as most bridges will give you quite a lot of leeway , although before doing any more, I'd measure you would still have enough leeway to intonate properly



This was my original thinking as well, hence why I start carefully sanding those exact areas out a bit to close the gap in the case I need to redowel and drill .


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Post subject: Re: Neck Pocket Gap between Body - NOT SIDES
Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 11:51 am
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Best of luck that you get everything sorted
As I said, to route out a small sliver from the pickguard if needed is easy to do , I have a 1968 MIJ reissue, no skunk stripe and heel truss rod adjustment

I got fed up of having to take the pickguard off or neck off to adjust the truss rod, so... (there was already a smallish semi-circular cutout right near the adjustment screw) ...I took the pickguard off and very carefully made the "gouge" a lot bigger , I used a half round file and then smoothed the chamfer off by using wet and dry to "polish" the edge to match the polished edge all around the pickguard so I wouldn't damage it and can now leave everything in situ and adjust an away with an offset flat blade screwdriver (Jimi damaged his strat pickguard by not doing this as here)

Image

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Post subject: Re: Neck Pocket Gap between Body - NOT SIDES
Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 3:30 am
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I would put saddles screws in their middle range , hold the neck in the pocket to get the right neck scale with saddles and I would screw the neck there .

You can't just fill the pocket with the neck if scale is not right.

You need some range with saddles , keep them in middle


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