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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 1:11 pm
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bluesky636 wrote:
Solder wick is totally worthless on something like this:

Image

Or this:

Image

Or even this:

Image

That's why.


Interesting...

I've had quite good results using it in just those applications.

I modified a hemostat, epoxying 2 pieces of shaped popcycle stick on the ends so the stat doen't act like a Heat Sink.

That allows me to get snipets of the wick down into some really tight spaces.

Works great for me...

cheers !

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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 1:57 pm
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Anywhere there is solder, a good iron and some wick should be able to get it out. Wick also comes in handy for making excellent circuit traces.

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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 2:38 pm
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http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/produ ... QgodwD4AkQ

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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 3:12 pm
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Lightnin MN wrote:
Interesting...

I've had quite good results using it in just those applications.

I modified a hemostat, epoxying 2 pieces of shaped popcycle stick on the ends so the stat doen't act like a Heat Sink.

That allows me to get snipets of the wick down into some really tight spaces.

Works great for me...

cheers !


As does this with no modifications:

Image

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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 5:35 pm
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Lightnin MN wrote:
Xhefri wrote:
Years ago when I first started soldering I used one of these:

Image

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


I have that exact soldering iron, inherited from my Dad, who inherited it from his Dad, circa 1933.

I remember my Dad using it to sweat copper pipe when I was a kid.

I've never even plugged it in due to the silk/cotton cord and dubious 2-prong plug.

cheers!

LOL! I have two of these. Almost the same story, but only inherited one from my dad and he had it for ever. The other one came from my wife's father. Both took years to heat up and the handles got pretty toasty as well! :wink:

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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 12:47 am
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That is a nice glimpse back into the "good old days" when everything was perfect. :lol:

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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 8:11 am
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shinkicker wrote:
dang guys, we even put more into subjects like this than needs to be. any 40 watt will do the job or any jobs you need done in a guitar or amp. weller does just fine for any app. especially amature. not everyone is a profesional electronics engeneer or thinks they are.


I bought a 40 watt from Guitar Center and I'm having a hard time getting the soldering points removed from the back of the output jack, actually.


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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 8:17 am
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nyuk nyuk wrote:
shinkicker wrote:
dang guys, we even put more into subjects like this than needs to be. any 40 watt will do the job or any jobs you need done in a guitar or amp. weller does just fine for any app. especially amature. not everyone is a profesional electronics engeneer or thinks they are.


I bought a 40 watt from Guitar Center and I'm having a hard time getting the soldering points removed from the back of the output jack, actually.



Buying a tool is easy , to know how to use them , takes time and practice , lots of practice .


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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 8:21 am
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Since this tread just got bumped by the last comment, I want to mention that I bought a Weller WESD1Digital soldering work station. It should be here today or tomorrow. I will give you a report. I have been using a Weller 100/140 gun and as long as I keep the contacts clean for the tip, it works well and is fast—and fast is what I need!

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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:45 pm
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A few tips (no pun intended)...

While a proper soldering gun/station is essential, there are other must-haves for doing good solder work.

Be sure you have a proper tip. Don't use the conical tip which often comes with these irons, make sure you have a small chisel tip - this facilitates the necessary heat transfer more quickly.

Image

Also, heat transfers in both directions, so be sure to use a heat sink on the component to prevent damaging it during the soldering process. Resistor values can be permanently altered if overheated and you can boil the electrolytic in Caps from too much heat.

Image


No point in ruining the component you're trying to attach when you can protect it with these simple, easy to use and inexpensive (<$0.50) gadgets. Be sure you have at least 2 of these as you are often soldering multiple components to a single point. And for really high value components, I often use 2 of these in-line to absolutely minimize the amount of heat going into the component. If I need more heat sinks than I have on-hand, such as soldering 3-4 components at a single point, I'll substitute a paper clip which, while not as effective, nonetheless offers some protection.

You'll be surprised how hot these heat sinks can get when used - sometimes too hot to handle for a minute or two. Now think of all that heat going into your component... :shock:

cheers!

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Last edited by Lightnin MN on Thu Feb 27, 2014 2:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:56 pm
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I like this one
http://www.frys.com/product/4825200?sit ... IN_RSLT_PG

They have a more expensive model that has 3 presets, which could come in handy.


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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:46 pm
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Lightnin MN wrote:
A few tips (no pun intended)...

Also, heat transfers in both directions, so be sure to use a heat sink on the component to prevent damaging it during the soldering process. Resistor values can be permanently altered if overheated and you can boil the electrolytic in Caps from too much heat.

No point in ruining the component you're trying to attach when you can protect it with these simple, easy to use and inexpensive (<$0.50) gadgets. Be sure you have at least 2 of these as you are often soldering multiple components to a single point. And for really high value components, I often use 2 of these in-line to absolutely minimize the amount of heat going into the component. If I need more heat sinks than I have on-hand, such as soldering 3-4 components at a single point, I'll substitute a paper clip which, while not as effective, nonetheless offers some protection.

You'll be surprised how hot these heat sinks can get when used - sometimes too hot to handle for a minute or two. Now think of all that heat going into your component... :shock: cheers!

Do these just attach to the iron to stop the head from going backwards toward the handle? Funny, I have done a ton of soldering all with the old Weller gun. Some guys would see what I was using and were like, "And you are using that?" It is a 100/140 and man, when the iron has a good connection to the tip (a problem with these guns) I can pop 6 ground wires on a pot in like 3 seconds. I like that as it prevents the pot from getting too hot buy holding the heat to the pot for a long time tried to get the temp high enough to pool the solder properly. I hope the work station I am getting will do that. Thanks for the "tips"!!! :wink:

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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:53 pm
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I usually have a couple of alligator clips I use if I need them. I don't know if they work as good as those, but haven't had any issues yet.


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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 4:58 pm
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Xhefri wrote:
Do these just attach to the iron to stop the head from going backwards toward the handle? Funny, I have done a ton of soldering all with the old Weller gun. Some guys would see what I was using and were like, "And you are using that?" It is a 100/140 and man, when the iron has a good connection to the tip (a problem with these guns) I can pop 6 ground wires on a pot in like 3 seconds. I like that as it prevents the pot from getting too hot buy holding the heat to the pot for a long time tried to get the temp high enough to pool the solder properly. I hope the work station I am getting will do that. Thanks for the "tips"!!! :wink:


Two schools of thought on this:

A little heat for a long time (lower wattage iron, narrow tip)

or

A lot of heat for a short time (high wattage iron, broad tip)

But, in either case, you're really doing nothing to truly protect the component.

IMHO, spending $1 on a couple reusable, have em for life, heat sinks that keep from ruining an $6, $8, $10 or even $15 capacitor not to mention numerous $0.50 - $1.25 resistors seems good insurance.

Of course, everyone can do as they wish.

cheers!

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'99 Deluxe Nashville Telecaster
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'10 Heritage H-535
'99 Martin DC-1E
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Post subject: Re: Soldering IronS
Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 4:53 am
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Lightnin MN wrote:
Also, heat transfers in both directions, so be sure to use a heat sink on the component to prevent damaging it during the soldering process. Resistor values can be permanently altered if overheated and you can boil the electrolytic in Caps from too much heat.

No point in ruining the component you're trying to attach when you can protect it with these simple, easy to use and inexpensive (<$0.50) gadgets.

I think you make a good point here, using a Heat Sink to dissipate unwanted energy seems like a simple and inexpensive way to prevent damaging components. Although, from what I can hear, I don't think I've ruined any components due to excessive heat in one of my projects. :shock:

I've been mildly concerned enough to attach alligator clips as a poor mans Heat Sink to the leads on Caps before.

Costs nothing and "Perfects" my Tone & Sustain, I'm sure. :lol:

On other "sensitive" components, my clips weren't large enough to help. I'd like to hear how you go about attaching a Heat Sink to a Pot (Potentiometer)? By attaching to the Case away from the solder point? Is your "Heat Sink" jaw wide enough for that? :?:

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