It is currently Tue Mar 17, 2020 3:18 am

All times are UTC - 7 hours



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 31 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 3:00 pm
Offline
Hobbyist
Hobbyist
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2012 10:43 pm
Posts: 26
So if anyone's still following this thread and you have a threaded arm with a spring.

When you've threaded the arm in to the point where the spring gives sufficient friction to hold the arm in place, is any thread showing above the block?

Here's a pic of where mine 'holds', however it has some play or wobble, especially noticeable if you try to use light vibrato.

Image


Top
Profile
Fender Play Winter Sale 2020
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 4:05 am
Offline
Rock Icon
Rock Icon
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 1:20 pm
Posts: 9640
Location: Indiana
All Fender screw-in arms have some wobble, spring or not. Get a Callaham block and arm, no wobble, no spring, much better response. :idea:

_________________
---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 4:13 am
Offline
Rock Icon
Rock Icon
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 1:10 pm
Posts: 13467
Location: Palm Beach County FL
orvilleowner wrote:
bluesky636 wrote:
An American Standard Strat comes with a screw in trem arm. If a pop in arm was received, it is incorrect.


I have the exception to that rule. A few years back, I discovered that my new American Standard had a pop in trem block. I've told that story here before. It came with a screw in arm, which I swapped out at my local Fender dealer.

.....as well...my Guitar Center FSR AmDlx VG Strat requires a pop-in arm and was supplied with a screw in. That's be about 4-5 years ago. I hope the OP isn't trying to force a screw-in arm into the block. The threads will strip for sure.

_________________
"Another day in paradise!"


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 8:58 am
Offline
Hobbyist
Hobbyist
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2012 10:43 pm
Posts: 26
shimmilou wrote:
All Fender screw-in arms have some wobble, spring or not. Get a Callaham block and arm, no wobble, no spring, much better response. :idea:
Thanks for the idea, but after almost 50 years I'm not likely to change it out now. :) I'm just trying to figure out how damaged it is and if I can fix it. I usually just let the bridge float and use the heel of my hand to give slight vibrato, but I thought I'd try playing with the arm again.


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 11:54 am
Offline
Professional Musician
Professional Musician

Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:14 pm
Posts: 2561
AudioHTIT wrote:
shimmilou wrote:
All Fender screw-in arms have some wobble, spring or not. Get a Callaham block and arm, no wobble, no spring, much better response. :idea:
Thanks for the idea, but after almost 50 years I'm not likely to change it out now. :) I'm just trying to figure out how damaged it is and if I can fix it. I usually just let the bridge float and use the heel of my hand to give slight vibrato, but I thought I'd try playing with the arm again.


If you take the Whammy Bar to a GOOD Hardware store (NOT Loews or Menard's), they can identify the thread size/pitch and sell you a Thread Chaser which will allow you to cleanup the threads inside the bridge. You may need to buy a replacement Whammy Bar if it's threads are damaged, but not very expensive.

cheers!

_________________
Image

'11 FSR Am. Vtg. Ltd. Ed. CAR '57 Stratocaster (SN# LE02639)
'14 American Deluxe Ash Stratocaster
'12 Telebration Empress Telecaster
'99 Deluxe Nashville Telecaster
'12 FSR Telecaster HH
'10 Heritage H-535
'99 Martin DC-1E
'13 Lanikai Tenor Ukulele


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 12:03 pm
Offline
Rock Icon
Rock Icon
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 1:10 pm
Posts: 13467
Location: Palm Beach County FL
Lightnin MN wrote:
If you take the Whammy Bar to a GOOD Hardware store (NOT Loews or Menard's), they can identify the thread size/pitch and sell you a Thread Chaser which will allow you to cleanup the threads inside the bridge. You may need to buy a replacement Whammy Bar if it's threads are damaged, but not very expensive.

Tap and die kits are a thing of the past I suppose. :?

_________________
"Another day in paradise!"


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:18 pm
Offline
Rock Icon
Rock Icon
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 1:20 pm
Posts: 9640
Location: Indiana
You won't make the fit any tighter using a thread-chaser. :wink:

_________________
---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:45 pm
Offline
Professional Musician
Professional Musician

Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:14 pm
Posts: 2561
shimmilou wrote:
You won't make the fit any tighter using a thread-chaser. :wink:


No... but it won't make it any looser either, not if used correctly.

At least the OP will be able to get the Bar seated properly.

cheers!

_________________
Image

'11 FSR Am. Vtg. Ltd. Ed. CAR '57 Stratocaster (SN# LE02639)
'14 American Deluxe Ash Stratocaster
'12 Telebration Empress Telecaster
'99 Deluxe Nashville Telecaster
'12 FSR Telecaster HH
'10 Heritage H-535
'99 Martin DC-1E
'13 Lanikai Tenor Ukulele


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 2:00 pm
Offline
Professional Musician
Professional Musician

Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:14 pm
Posts: 2561
ZZDoc wrote:
Lightnin MN wrote:
If you take the Whammy Bar to a GOOD Hardware store (NOT Loews or Menard's), they can identify the thread size/pitch and sell you a Thread Chaser which will allow you to cleanup the threads inside the bridge. You may need to buy a replacement Whammy Bar if it's threads are damaged, but not very expensive.

Tap and die kits are a thing of the past I suppose. :?


No not at all... But a Tap has much more cutting action than a chaser and could expand the receiver (hole) and make the Bar looser.

You could use a Tap to go up one size in the receiver, but then you'd have to find a piece of appropriate-sized Rod Stock and make a new Bar.

Not impossible at all, but more work... and higher on the skill level index...

cheers!

_________________
Image

'11 FSR Am. Vtg. Ltd. Ed. CAR '57 Stratocaster (SN# LE02639)
'14 American Deluxe Ash Stratocaster
'12 Telebration Empress Telecaster
'99 Deluxe Nashville Telecaster
'12 FSR Telecaster HH
'10 Heritage H-535
'99 Martin DC-1E
'13 Lanikai Tenor Ukulele


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 5:09 pm
Offline
Hobbyist
Hobbyist
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2012 10:43 pm
Posts: 26
Thanks for the ideas guys, I appreciate the input. Here's the gist of the original question about how far in other's bars go. I think there is a compressed spring stuck at the bottom of the screw well.

When I screw my arm in there is less than one rotation between the beginning of resistance and tight. It so happens that the friction is 'good' in this single rotation and I can use the arm and place it where I need it, but there's just the issue of the play.

I've tried to move what I think is the spring with a stiff wire, but it's too snug. I thought about trying to make an extraction tool similar to those they sell for removing plastic risers from lawn sprinkler pipe (essentially a cone with ridges and a T handle), but it would have to be very small.

So anyone with a screw arm see any thread when your arm is all the way in?

Your thoughts are welcome, here's the best picture I can manage looking straight down the hole.

Image


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:19 pm
Offline
Rock Icon
Rock Icon
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 1:10 pm
Posts: 13467
Location: Palm Beach County FL
Can't be anymore difficult that removing a maxillary molar root tip. Take the tip of a small sewing needle and try to 'wedge' it between the spring and the wall teasing gently to loosen the spring. If you heat a needle tip red hot you might be able to put a small right angle bend in it, pass it through the center of the spring, and try to engage it under one of the turns, and lift it out.

_________________
"Another day in paradise!"


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 5:51 am
Offline
Rock Icon
Rock Icon
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 1:20 pm
Posts: 9640
Location: Indiana
Hard to tell, but it looks as if someone put in a different spring than the correct size that comes with the guitar. The correct spring would be black, and smaller.

_________________
---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 3:54 pm
Offline
Hobbyist
Hobbyist
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2012 10:43 pm
Posts: 26
ZZDoc wrote:
Can't be anymore difficult that removing a maxillary molar root tip. Take the tip of a small sewing needle and try to 'wedge' it between the spring and the wall teasing gently to loosen the spring. If you heat a needle tip red hot you might be able to put a small right angle bend in it, pass it through the center of the spring, and try to engage it under one of the turns, and lift it out.
Ha, didn't think of taking it to the dentist. :) I'll give it another shot, however it seems there's quite a bit of outward pressure from the spring. I'm fresh out of knitting needles, but do have some thin pointed awl type tools to try.

shimmilou wrote:
Hard to tell, but it looks as if someone put in a different spring than the correct size that comes with the guitar. The correct spring would be black, and smaller.
That's possible, I remember getting the last one at a Fender dealer directly from a tech, but it's been a while. I know the new ones are black, but I don't know that it's always been that way.

Thanks guys ...


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 4:53 pm
Offline
Professional Musician
Professional Musician

Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:14 pm
Posts: 2561
AudioHTIT wrote:
... That's possible, I remember getting the last one at a Fender dealer directly from a tech, but it's been a while. I know the new ones are black, but I don't know that it's always been that way.

Thanks guys ...


The 'black' is just a coating called Black Oxide. It is a process where the steel is submerged into a warm caustic soda bath and then oil.

It's main purpose is corrosion resistance, though it is also sometimes used it's for anti-glare and decorative properties. Typically it is very thin - about 1 micrometre (1ųm, or 0.000039 in.).

Repeated contact with the Whammy Bar can easily wear through this layer making the spring appear shiny again.

cheers!

_________________
Image

'11 FSR Am. Vtg. Ltd. Ed. CAR '57 Stratocaster (SN# LE02639)
'14 American Deluxe Ash Stratocaster
'12 Telebration Empress Telecaster
'99 Deluxe Nashville Telecaster
'12 FSR Telecaster HH
'10 Heritage H-535
'99 Martin DC-1E
'13 Lanikai Tenor Ukulele


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: strat trem spring
Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:01 pm
Offline
Hobbyist
Hobbyist
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2012 10:43 pm
Posts: 26
Well your encouragement prompted me to try again. This time I tried a strong slender awl type tool, first I found the end of the spring on top and got it to move around in the well. Then I pushed the the end of the awl into the top of the spring and spun it some more until it moved freely. Then I used a wire tool with a bent end to pull the spring up the side and out.

I think the main problem is the damaged threads from the arm being extracted years ago, but it still threads. You can see in the pic below the old (removed) spring on the left is quite compressed, you can also see it was once black, but the end was scraped clean. A new Fender spring is on the right.

A new spring doesn't even drop back in all the way, but with a good cleaning and the awl I can get it back down. The arm now screws in further, and there is more 'friction area', approximately two turns, the arm has slightly less wobble when in all the way. So problem solved as well as it's going to be without a new block or something like a helicoil. Thanks for the suggestions.

Image


Top
Profile
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 31 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC - 7 hours

Fender Play Winter Sale 2020

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to: