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Post subject: Tremolo Claw Fender
Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:45 am
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2011 5:44 am
Posts: 10
Hello friends.
I will be very grateful I can help answer some questions.
I have a 2011 american deluxe 2 bridged pivots
The tremolo claw located at the back of the cavity that holds the springs to control the rear height of the bridge should be parallel to the edge of the cavity?, Or stuck somewhere more than the other?. I have read and seen in some pictures that the low side I have gotten more into the wood, and I've also seen the opposite.
To exert more tension cords?, Thin or thick?.
I've also read that has no implication that forms an angle claw, that right is to be parallel. What happens is that setting for the bridge to float and have the proper height is almost impossible not parallel claw because one side of the back of the bridge you can get the right size but the other side does not.
The height of the 2 pivots has to do something with this?
Thank you.


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Post subject: Re: Tremolo Claw Fender
Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 12:17 pm
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:52 pm
Posts: 292
get a phillips head screw driver and make it even with the edge. Go from there...


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Post subject: Re: Tremolo Claw Fender
Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 1:55 pm
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Joined: Fri Jul 11, 2008 11:13 am
Posts: 248
There are those who advocate setting the claw at an angle to stabilize tuning. The idea being that your 1-3 strings exert a different amount of pressure than the 4-6 strings, and angling the claw will neutralize the effect.

I don't share that opinion. My strat has a 2 point bridge like yours, and is set up for full float. My tuning is rock solid. Granite. 'And my claw is not angled.

IMHO, there's a lot of myth and voodoo out there about what keeps a Strat in tune.

The single most important thing to understand about keeping a tremelo equipped Strat in tune is that the stings move back and forth along the length of the fretboard, and it's absolutely essential that there be NO binding or avoidable friction that can keep them from going back to pitch after they've moved (either from trem use or individual string bending with your fingers). If you think about it, after you've dived with the trem, the strings are going to re-tension back to 99% of where they need to be, but that last 1% is the tricky part, and you'll be out of tune. NO FRICTION.

Most friction occurs at the nut. Imaging you could view one of the nut slots, with the string in it, under 100x magnification. Is it a nice round string seated in a trough that fits it perfectly, or is it a nice round string that fits in a slot with a poorly formed or rough bottom, with sides that might be grabbing the string? Each string MUST be in a nice smooth trough.

You can check each slot by removing the strings. Start with the high E, hold onto that string and slip it into it's slot in the nut. Push down hard to simulate the down pressure it has when it's tuned. Use your hands to slide the string back and forth in the slot. It MUST glide smoothly, even with no lubrication. Any slots that impede, must be properly fitted to their string. I use 400 to 600 grit sandpaper to do a final smoothing of the slots.

When you've tuned your guitar, their should never be any pinging noises. Pinging happens at the nut, and it indicates you either have binding, or actually may have too wide a slot. Don't rely on lubrication to eliminate pinging. Make it FIT. Once it fits, use the lube of your choosing. My favorite is petroleum jelly. Every string change.

My Strat was going out of tune once, and I had eliminated the bridge as a problem. Turned out that the springs were rubbing a little on the bottom of the string cavity. FRICTION. I used pliers to bend the ends of the springs and was able to get a little clearance between them and the body.

I also lube the tiny area where the bridge meets the posts. I even lube a little where the ends of the springs enter the block and the claw. In a quite room, with the guitar unplugged, if you vigorously wiggle the trem on my Strat, the entire mechanism makes no noise. No noise means NO FRICTION. Everything glides smoothly.

I've done this on multiple Strats and a couple Carvins. Now, I can play song after song, with plenty of trem and constant individual string bending, and I stay in tune.

I also happen to use locking tuners. I cannot comment on whether they contribute significantly to tuning stability, but they don't cost much more, and I like them. It makes sense to me, that by eliminating the multiple windings around the posts, the constant detensioning and retensioning of the windings is eliminated.


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Post subject: Re: Tremolo Claw Fender
Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 4:46 am
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2011 5:44 am
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Thank you so much for your help friend Siamese.
Now I know that much of the detuning due to the friction that may be along the path of the string, at the points of contact.
Thank you very much.
Greetings from Lima-Peru.


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