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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 10:39 am
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ZZDoc wrote:
Clapton is quoted as preferring a 'hardtail' but was of the opinion that the Fender vibrato bridge assembly, springs included, lent something to the tone that a conventional hardtail lacked. Let's see what your ear tells you.


I agree, and this is the way that I like mine (no block). I like the little bit of reverb-type-sound that the tightly stretched springs add.

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 11:16 am
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joshbuhler wrote:
Basically what the subject says. I've got a MiM standard that I'd like to hardtail, as I never use the tremolo. In the past with other strat-style guitars, I've just tightened the screws bringing the claw closer to the front of the guitar, and pulled the tremolo down flat against the body. However, seems like most folks will instead block the trem with a piece of wood, and let the string tension hold the wood in place.

So… what's the preferred method for locking a strat tremolo in place? What are the advantages of one or the other?


I have the bridge flush with the body and use five springs and crank down the srping tension screws a bit. I like htis better then the block because if you really want to use the trem for some reason you still can. Of course it will be stiff but it is stilll useable. I ahve no issues with staying in tune. 94 SRV strat set up with 11's and"aggresive" action tuned standard.


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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 8:32 am
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Quote:
I have the bridge flush with the body and use five springs and crank down the srping tension screws a bit. I like htis better then the block because if you really want to use the trem for some reason you still can. Of course it will be stiff but it is stilll useable. I ahve no issues with staying in tune. 94 SRV strat set up with 11's and"aggresive" action tuned standard.


I tune to D standard and Drop C as most modern Rock does I have my bridge rest on the body but only need 3 springs.
I use locking tuners and set the tension so I can still use the bar but it returns flat.
Rock for the most part hasnt been tuning to E standard since the 70s so 3 springs work great.

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 2:54 am
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Solution:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opmWhJ2Z9DI


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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 6:45 am
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ScottGrove wrote:

Thanks for posting. It's a restatement of what's gone before save for the bathroom tissue which Clapton seemed to have gone through his entire career without need for.....in his guitar...at least. Clapton's take on the spring vibrations was that it added something to the tone he heard. That is why he preferred a 'stopped' trem to a true hardtail. :wink:

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:17 am
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Yeah that Charmin TP was kind of a new twist huh?
Guess if you ever got a runny nose your covered.

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:17 am
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I really think I get the same results with 3 springs tightening the claw till the bridge no longer floats.
I can still use the bar if I want and I get the better vibration transfer and spring reverb too.

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:05 am
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I've often referred to the excellent three part series published by Premier Guitar magazine entitled The Pyschology of Tone. What works for each player's ear and needs is what's best. There are some general principles regarding how to 'stop' the Stratocaster's vibrato [correct term] bridge, which have been satisfactorily covered in this thread and other's like it over the years, thanks to the many contributors in these forums. The overall quest for tone still remains the elusive goal for many who come to 'hear' a portion of what the artist of interest is hearing as well. That's the challenge.

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:14 am
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Have you also noticed as you age what sounded good to you as a younger player no longer does?
I used to think a Floyd and a set of EMGs was best.
Now at 48 I prefer the actual single coils and and a 2 point or Blade Runner.

Thats what I have noticed about Eric C and EVH too as they aged there sounds changed.

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:54 am
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donnycraven wrote:
Have you also noticed as you age what sounded good to you as a younger player no longer does?


yup, and there's might even be a biological reason for that, aside from simply matters of taste. Even without banging amps damaging ears (like THAT would ever happen to a rocker...) the frequencies you can hear diminish with age, so in a sense what used to be your upper-mid range starts to become a high. That's got to be part of it, surely?

Back on the topic of blocking, I've blocked vibratos with a range of woods, corks and other random things (even tried lego!) and didn't notice a difference really. I think much of the effect comes from the baseplate against the face of the guitar, rather than transferred from the block to the cavity through whatever is jammed in there.

I've also tried three, four and five springs screwed down, both on vintage and two-point trems. That does sound different to blocking it - at least to my ear.

Which sounds better? Only your ears, your block/springs, amp and guitar can tell you that. We're not talking huge $$££ to try different options here either, so have at it!

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 10:03 am
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On all the starts I've played I hate the floating trem the method I use is the one recommended by fender even out the trem and then tighten the claw keeping the same 3 springs this works for the vintage 6 screw and the 2 point

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 10:05 am
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Interesting thoughts :)

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 7:08 pm
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I always use 5 trem springs, of equal tension. I screw the claw screws in under the bridge sits flush on the front of the guitar. I press my hand on the front of the bridge, with it tuned up, and I try to get any change in pitch out of it by pressure. I stop tightening the claw when it acts like a hardtail and all the pressure I can put there causes no pitch drift. I've don't bother making blocks of wood anymore because this method works good for me and is faster and results in better tone and sustain. There are some real good springs too you can buy, made by Raw Vintage, that really add better tone and sustain because they are heavier. Those are the ones I use.


Last edited by debraehart on Thu Mar 28, 2013 6:17 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 12:26 am
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Usually there is no real right or wrong to how you do some things.

I'll say that I think blocking the trem is the proper way to do it. You don't need to adjust anything except for the block, tighten and everything is good to go.

I can't imagine having to do a setup on a guitar where the floating trem block is tightened down until it makes contact with the body. If you can get the baseplate flat to the body, then you should be ok. If the baseplate isn't level with the body when you crank the springs down, you could push your guitar out of intonation, or you might not have enough string height over the frets or you may need to shim the neck pocket to get the relief correct.

With a trem block your intonation shouldn't change, your baseplate will be at the proper angle and it will be easier if you need to make bridge height adjustments. And it really doesn't matter what you block it with... wood or metal. Business cards cut to length works fine and it's easier to figure out how much material you need to make the bridge level before blocking it off. There are also other options that can remove pullup so you have tuning stability if a string breaks... ESP Arming Adjuster, Ibanez Edge Zero, Trem-el-no, Schaller Trem-Stop, etc... An angle bracket and screws also works well.


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Post subject: Re: Blocking a tremolo vs. tightening the screws
Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 6:10 am
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xenophobe wrote:
Usually there is no real right or wrong to how you do some things.

I'll say that I think blocking the trem is the proper way to do it. You don't need to adjust anything except for the block, tighten and everything is good to go.

I can't imagine having to do a setup on a guitar where the floating trem block is tightened down until it makes contact with the body. If you can get the baseplate flat to the body, then you should be ok. If the baseplate isn't level with the body when you crank the springs down, you could push your guitar out of intonation, or you might not have enough string height over the frets or you may need to shim the neck pocket to get the relief correct.

With a trem block your intonation shouldn't change, your baseplate will be at the proper angle and it will be easier if you need to make bridge height adjustments. And it really doesn't matter what you block it with... wood or metal. Business cards cut to length works fine and it's easier to figure out how much material you need to make the bridge level before blocking it off. There are also other options that can remove pullup so you have tuning stability if a string breaks... ESP Arming Adjuster, Ibanez Edge Zero, Trem-el-no, Schaller Trem-Stop, etc... An angle bracket and screws also works well.


I've done probably thousands of strats in 30 years of working on guitars as a luthier. Even if you block your bridge, you will have to make adjustments to the intonation because even 1/64" of movement will throw it off enough that a Peterson strobe will show it. If you're worried about having to do intonation adjustments, then you probably don't know how to do it and should just take the guitar to a tech. It's not hard to get the baseplate flush on any strat body. It's designed to be either way. The front ramp edge WILL come flat, but you'll need to loosen each of the 6 screws up about 2 turns or so. Pull back on the baseplate and it'll move back a bit. Tighten in the claw screws until it's flush on the front, and then retighten the 6 screws to their proper heights, per Fender's guidelines. And, as far as having to shim a neck, nope, you won't have to. You may have to adjust the saddle height screws to get the proper string height at the 17th fret, but then you'll have to do that anyways when you do a proper setup. Done the way I've suggested gets the baseplate of the bridge flat on the face of the guitar, better sustain because there's good metal to wood contact, superb tuning stability, even without locking tuners (with nut lube of course) and it's a low fuss operation. Cutting a proper wood shim though takes a bit more skill because it will need to fit tightely up to the wood and the block of the bridge, and that usually means it has to be tapered to some degree. Screwing it down is faster, requires only setup knowledge, and benefits the tone and sustain much more. Take 2 strats that have the same pickups in them, set one up with the baseplate flat, and the other by making a proper block, you'll see that the way I do it improves the tone and sustain much more. Have fun experimenting!


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