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Post subject: Locking tuning machines without tremolo use
Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 12:55 pm
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Hi,

I would like to ask you about locking tuning machines.

Are they useful only when using tremolo or can they also improve tuning stability even when tremolo is not in use?

I was wondering whether going out of tune is more a result of tuning machines revolving under pressure or strings lengthening a bit.

Thank you in advance.

Tomek


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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 1:31 pm
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They work excellent for hardtails and tremolo guitars. They are also good for gibraltar bridges .


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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 1:43 pm
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Thank you for reply.

Is there an improvement in tuning stability on guitars where tremolo is not used?

I have MIM with tremolo, but I am not using it most of the time.

Thanks in advance.

Tomek


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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 3:24 pm
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I just read a thread at www.mylespaul.com on this issue. It was pointed out that most tuning issues (at least for non-trem axes, i.e. most Gibsons) was the nut binding the string and not letting it go back to pitch. The suggested solution over there was using a lubricant on the nut.

That said I have the schaller locking tuners with a LSR nut on my Am Deluxe and find that I have very few problems with the guitar going out of tune when using the trem and virtually none when not. For a point of reference I'm not a heavy trem user.


Last edited by uteowl on Wed May 07, 2008 3:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post subject:
Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 3:25 pm
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Yes Tomek, Schaller and Sperzel locking tuners will improve tuning stability on your MIM.


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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 6:46 pm
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Hello Tomek,

Plus, you can restring in a heartbeat.

Cheers.


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Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 10:38 am
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I have Sperzels on my 98 MIA. Love them, so easy and fast to tune, stays in tune much better with or without tremolo, and some say the extra mass on the headstock improves sustain a bit (though I've never noticed any big difference).

Get them, you'll love them and will never want to mess with normal tuners again. I hate changing the strings with normal tuners now.


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Post subject: The hook and other urban myths
Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 10:53 am
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I was taught to use the Martin Hook on strings when restringing; it works but my practice for years has been to pull the string through the hole and leave enough length on the string to allow for at least 2 wraps (for heavy strings) around the barrel ( 4 or 5 wraps for lighter strings) of the tuner and as you tighten the string make sure the wraps wrap down around the little tail of string left so the tighter the string the tighter the locking effect the wraps have on the tail. It look really professional as well AND there is no pointy string end to shove under your fingernail. Be careful not to have too long a tail on your string as it can scratch the finish of the head stock.
Fender style tuners don't need this technique as you stick the string in the hole in the barrel and tighten the string. I don't know of any slippage using this technique but then I don't use the whammy (tremelo) bar at all.


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Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 10:55 am
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I have the schallers on my deluxe american... they are my favorites. I must also say that, for whatever reason, my new JV strat really holds well and they machines are simply Fender/Gotoh vintage.


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Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 11:00 am
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Something in your original post in this thread suggests you might be under some misapprehension as to what locking tuners do.

To be clear, it is not the string post that locks so as not to be able to turn. Rather, locking tuners have mechanisms that "lock" the string into the hole you thread it through, so that it doesn't slip against the post as you tune to pitch. This means you only need half a turn or so of string on the post: it is slippage against the post when people have many turns on them that can lead to tuning instability.

This also makes locking machines delightfully quick to restring - good bye, string winder! On the other hand, they weigh distinctly more than vintage tuners: enough that some people dislike them just for that reason.

One more useful point: six-on-a-side locking Sperzel machines have staggered pole pieces. In other words, the string posts get lower further away from the nut. This is just enough to increase the breaking angle of the string across the nut so you no longer need a string tree to keep the top strings from jumping out of their nut slots under heavy playing. Again, string trees are often identified as a cause of intonation problems - it's one more point of friction on the string, after all.

Proof of the pudding: I picked up one of my Strats today that had not been played for about three weeks, and it needed not a morsel of retuning. Thank you, Sperzel!


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