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Post subject: Re: Help With Pickup Wiring
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 8:37 am
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Thank you strayedstrarter! Yes, I made some pretty major mistakes when I took those pics. I've also made the wiring nice and tidy. I also went back to Radio Shack and bought a bunch of alligator leads and the correct value resistors. Thanks again!

And I agree about starting a new thread. In fact, I've wanted to delete this whole thread a few times! :lol:

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2010 American Deluxe Strat Sunset Metallic - Lindy Fralin Blues Specials in the neck and middle, Dimarzio AT-1 humbucker in the bridge.
PRS Custom 22 with solid rosewood neck
Mesa/Boogie Electra Dyne 1x12 combo
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Post subject: Re: Help With Pickup Wiring
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 6:13 pm
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strayedstrater wrote:
"The 500K will make your single coils sound much brighter, but with the resistors, your HB in dual mode will sound muddy..."

The resistors should only be switched in with the single coils, not with the humbucker -- so the humbucker by itself sees a 500K load and the single-coils see a 250K load. There will still be issues when splitting the humbucker and in the bridge+middle position (whether the 'bucker is in dual-coil mode or split) but that's true with or without resistors. Using resistors to trick single-coils into seeing a 250K load with a 500K volume is one of Martian's trademark ideas -- odd that no one's disputed him the dozens of times he's suggested it.

But the way the resistors are wired now, they're in series with the pickups, not in parallel with the volume pot. They should be increasing the impedance load to ground, not adding resistance to the signal flow. Because they're such a tiny value (470 ohms instead of the correct 470K ohms) they aren't adding enough resistance to really do anything, but one end should be connected to the switch lug where the pickup wire connects and the other end of the resistor should go to ground.

The treble bleed cap is wired incorrectly. It should connect the voume pot's input and output, not run from the third lug to ground.

"your 4 lead HB wire needs to be trimmed to a shorter length, also you cannot have bare splices, any splices should be insulated with shrink tubing, but Why are you splicing..."

What splices? White and black run to the splitter switch, green and silver to the back of the volume pot, red to the switch. I don't see any wire splices at all.

"Switch your Volume pot to a push /pull for single to dual HB mode."

Why? Having the coil-split push/pull on one of the tone pots is normal and common -- keeps you from bumping the knob down while playing. Plus using a regular pot for the volume gives you a nice large area for the ground connections.

"You only need a 5 way....remove the super switch as it is just making your project a nightmare."

I said that back in the 4th post in this thread. But he's already bought the superswitch, doesn't have a 5-way, and doesn't want to buy another switch and more pots and waste the investment he's already made in parts. Not having asked about what he needed before he started has complicated matters, but the components he already has can do what he wants.

The sloppiness I attribute to it being a work in progress. He's trying to figure out what goes where and just to get it to work. I assume he's going to tidy it up before he adds the ouput wires to the jack and actually installs the loaded pickguard into his guitar.

Hollis, again I suggest you start a new thread. But title it "Martian, please help with a wiring nightmare." He could wire your guitar the way you want with his eyes closed using your existing components (except replacing the 470 resistors with 470K resistors).


i'm glad the OP answer's his own thread.... :lol:

" Sloppiness as to a work in progress "... :?: I take that as an attempt at a joke.... :?:
You know as well as I that the least amount of heat you expose these circuits to, the less likely problems will arise from overcooked components.

As far as how Martian would wire up and to dispute his approach...No I wouldn't dispute it.
But looking at the OP's goal, simplicity is why I suggested the TBX tone pots, OP is still going to have issues with loss of signal due to the resistors.....The TBX's bypass that symptom whereas you can just dial up or down either the Bass or Treble without affecting the other...
Not trying to be contrarian here but I have done this HSS set up more than once and until I used TBX's in this configuration I was always unhappy at the trade-off when the HB was switched to and from single to dual and in connection with either the neck or middle pup.
If I used a solid state amp the switch would not be that apparent but since I prefer a vintage,
early 60's Magnatone, a discrepancy in signal output when switching doesn't allow for a smooth transition while playing.... :wink:

What investment in parts.... :?: $50 tops... :?: Really the Superswitch is overkill and I believe that when your current is directed to a larger area of connection that will reduce the efficiency of that current traveling to only where it should.....You might think I'm crazy but because we are dealing with an electromagnetic system of sound amplification from a vibration, any added resistance will affect the sound emitted from the speakers.
There is no need to have it look like a rat's nest since sooner or later when you open up again and you have forgotten what you did, a complicated system just further confuses any attempt at a problem solving issue....

I saw splices which actually are the white wires to the pot and with the reflection of the insulating on the pick guard and the fuzzy pic it looked like a splice....My Bad...

Why use a Push Pull Vol....Because of the suggestion of using TBX pots for tone for Bridge and Neck and Middle, the grounds can always be run from one of the tone pots since all pots are grounded in series, thus which pot to run the majority of grounds is irrelevant....
As far as large area, TBX's are stacked pots thus plenty of room is available for grounding...

If I'm incorrect in my layout then I 'm sure Martian would be able to say either way, but since there is more than one way to skin a Cat....Then a multitude of options are possible....

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Post subject: Re: Help With Pickup Wiring
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 7:33 pm
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Professional Musician
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We're beating a dead horse now -- he's got it up and running as described in another thread.

But $50 is a lot of money to some people. And that's a way low estimate. He spent something like $16 for the RS Superpot, $22 for the superswitch, $9 for the 250K push/pull, $6 for the plain 250K. You suggested he toss all that in his parts drawer and hope to use them someday for another project, then spend $32 for two TBX pots, $10 for an Oak-Grigsby 5-way, $9 for a 500K push/pull.

That's over $100 not including the Orange Drops. The RS pot price is from RS's site (the only source I'm aware of for their Superpot), the rest of the prices are from Guitar Parts Resource -- you might be able to find them for less but you could also pay more for them. Wasting $50 and then spending $50 more isn't a big deal to some people, but I can certainly understand wanting to make do with the stuff he's already bought.

If he was starting from scratch I'd agree that your suggestions were excellent, and not having tried either approach I wouldn't argue that your approach might give better results (although personally I'd hate having a push/pull in the volume position). And I agree that starting with clips is a better approach than sloppily tack-soldering things temporarily in place -- but I also understand enthusiastically starting a project then forging ahead and getting messy when frustration sets in.

I'd be tempted to argue that running a 470K resistor in parallel with a 500K pot is electrically exactly the same as using a 250K pot -- the pickup sees the same impedance load either way. (Well, a 500K resistor in parallel with a 500K pot would be a 250K load -- with a 470K resistor the total load is 242.27K ohms but that's so close to 250K that the difference is negligable.) But again, beating a dead horse.

Peace.


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