Today I found clearcoat polyurethane in spray cans. Gloss, semi-gloss and matte finishes. Plus it is made for wood. Would this differ that much from what guitar makers like Fender uses, or is polyurethane all the same? If you used this on a guitar body, how many coats would you need on a natural wood grain?

Hi Minnesotastrats: the stuff in aerosols is essentially the same as what Fender use on MIA bodies and on most of their necks. Though I have an idea these days they use a formulation that cures more quickly under intensive UV in the factory - but that's just an industrial application we home builders don't need to worry ourselves over.

Far as coats are concerned, that depends partly on how well you prep the wood first, and therefore how smoothly it can go on. If you really prep the timber well then you might find yourself using six or eight nice thin coats of urethane, sprayed a couple of hours between coats, two or three coats a day (though check any instructions on the can, in case the maker's timings are different). That will build you a film you can then knock back to as thin as you like during wet-sanding and buffing without going through to the wood again.

Prepping is the key.

Good luck - C

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Thank you Ceri that is what I wanted to know. I'm still in the thinkin' and planning stage and want to start out with baby steps, before I attempt anything major like chopping down a cherry tree and whittling a neck and body.

Check out The Guitar ReRanch on the internet it is a great source from information and refin supplies.
Cheers

My French Poly-shing (thanks Ceri) technique which I used in this build may be helpful to you.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=50159&start=30

I used rattle cans among other things. As mentioned, the preparation is key to a good result. Mine worked out well.





Goodonya ...Mark.

To add to the discussion, heat up your spray cans before using them.
The safest, easiest and only way I would recommend is to heat up a pan of water on the stove..
But... Do... Not.. put the paint cans in the pan of water while heating.......
Heat the water up to the point where you can still put your fingers in the water for a few seconds, if you cannot do this then it's too hot....
By heating up the can, you are thereby heating up the paint inside as well as the propellant gas.
Heat results in the two mixing more consistently, the paint will flow out of the nozzle in a more consistent spray/mist, not spitting or sputtering.
Last make sure you shake the can to mix the contents at least 30 seconds before spraying and in between coats.....

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"C'est parti mon Kiki "

53 Magnatone, thanks for the good tip. and Boxbang that sure is a nice looking job on that strat!

Boxbang I have to say that is gorgeous! Im not usually a fan of gold but it just sings on that natural finish Sweet!

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Mona
"Music is What Feelings Sound like"

Thanks minnesotastrats, and Mona, I'd had this thing for gold ever since my jamming bro' got one of the first SRVs, so I got my fetish out of the way in one big hit.



Back on topic, as far as the finish goes, any finish really, my advice is SANDPAPER. 5OO grit, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000. Sand for hours. Sand till it hurts. When you think it's good enough, sand some more.
I'm a complete amateur, but I was able to achieve a very professional result.

Goodonya ...Mark.

PS, Did I mention the importance of sanding?