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Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 3:53 pm
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Location: Tinley Park, IL
This is what I did......took my strat to the local guitar tech that everyone recommends. He said he would adjust the bridge and make it flat with the body since I don't really use the tremolo arm. That way it will stay in tune better. He said the neck was bowed (remember this this is less tha n 2 months old) and he would adjust it. He also noticed my edgy frets and said he would file them down. He said he would also adjust the intonation so it would be tuned sll the way up the neck. The price....$60. I realize that when you don't know a lot about this stuff you are at their mercy. It's like taking your car to the auto mechanic. The last time I was told I needed my johnson rod replaced....of course I told him to go ahead. He also looked at my 5 year old Martin DX-1. He said the neck was slightly off and the first 3 frets were wore and he would make them like new. He said he would file the nut and lower the action....all for $75. They both will be done on Sunday. After all this, I need to learn to play more than 20 chords.


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Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 4:46 pm
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So what was your experience with Guitar Center? I feel more comfortable with a reputable tech working on my guitar than those kids at GC.


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Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 7:57 am
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GC is the devil. Lots of flashy stuff with no soul. Stick with your local independent music store for your set ups and such. You'll be happy that you did. Also, it's been my experience that they'll price match what prices GC, MF, etc have .


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Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:43 pm
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To play "all" the chords it's really just chord forms with barre chords. Two forms play every chord pretty much, except "5th" chords because they're like two middle strings - lots of rock songs play them on humbuckers and sound good like ZZ top. Also, the 6th chords are a jazz chord BB King uses also, and that's just the bottom four strings going right up the fret board. The 9th chords are different but not much because that's just a pinky on the little string. Don't worry about those because basically two forms get you the chords, the 7ths, the minors, and the minor 7ths.

The first chord form is just the e chord open. Now, to turn it into a key to the Highway (if you have a Highway One) just make the very similar f chord where you use your index finger to bar at fret 1 and then press down the same strings as to make an open "e" chord. That's f at 1, g at 3, a at 5, b at 7, c at 8, d at 10 and back to e at 12. For a 7th it's the same form as the open E 7th with the bar at the appropriate fret. For a minor it's the same form as the open E minor with the bar at the appropriate fret.

The second chord form is the a chord open. From playing the open chords you know how to make an a chord, an a7 chord and a minor. Well, these easy a chords also travel, just like the e chords. First, make the open a chord with the ring finger of your left hand only, just depressing three strings with that first joint of your finger. Easy. Now, to make it travel to the b chord from the a chord go to the 2d fret, put your index finger of your left hand on the fat A (2d down) string, and just touch the fat e string to mute it with the big ugly callous on the tip of your finger, while you make the form of the a chord with your ring finger at the fourth fret. Strum and you've got a b chord. Treating the finger hitting the fat A as the bar, a is open, b is 2, c is 3, d is 5, e is 7, f is 8, g is 10, a is 12. To make the a7, bar where you were holding down the fat a string and make the a7 form with your pinky and ring finger. Easy. For minor, just use the a minor form all the way down the fret board, which is just dropping your middle finger in the fret between the open a7 form and the bar.

This sounds more complicated when written, but here'e the key. It's really simple. One form is the open e, e7, e minor chord but with a bar to take it down the fret board, and the other is the open a, a7, a minor with a bar also. Two forms give you many of the chords a guitar has, and the most used ones.


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Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:51 pm
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[quote="allen319"]It is a new strat. The tech said I had the strings tuned high. I assume that means an octive high. So I think the explanation of tightening the strings too high means I caused this problem myself. After my experience with the tech at guitar center, I felt I did not want them tounching my strat anymore.

So I don't do this again, when tuning, how do I keep from tuning too high?[/quot


Buy a Tuner, some are very inexpensive and work terrific.


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Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:52 am
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Put the tuner at standard tuning 440. If it won't find the note, you may be so out of wack that it's not able to read where you are. Back down to avoid breaking the strings, pull on the strings and make sure the whammy isn't pulling on them. Then tune up from down low. Works for me.


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Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:31 am
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You might want to get a simple tuning for for A=440 and tune your A (fifth string) to that... then the rest of the strings to the A.

I purchased Strobosoft from Peterson... about $80... really simple to learn and use and super accurate... you'll need a computer to use it though.

If you want a reference tone this instant and don't want to spend and $$... Just pick up the handset on the telephone and listen for the "dial-tone"... you'll hear two frequencies... the higher one is very close to A=400! (This works in the US... not certain about other countries?)


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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:47 pm
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peterp wrote:
3 springs is what normally comes with in new strat..
If they sold you the guitar new or even used with a warranty they should be fixing it.

Either the claws are to lose or the springs are somehow bad and stretching if so they should be replaced.

In any case with a new guitar the vendor should be making it right or replacing it altogether.

Only other thing I can think of is how did you tune it, if you have way over tightened the strings that would overpower the springs and start to pull the bridge out.


I have Ernie Ball Not Even Slinky's on my Strat, and i've tried tightening the screws on the claw to add tension, and there just isn't any way to get the bridge down. It's wwwwaaaaaayy to high when I finally get it in tune. I imagine i'm going to need to add more springs (currently only have 3) since the gauge for these strings is so high, yeah? I don't want to step down in gauge thickness as I like the sound the thick gauges produce (Stevie Ray Vaughan, anyone??)

Or is there another way to do this? I've noticed some people make mention to tuning the pitch incorrectly. I use an online tuner and i'm almost positive i'm within the right pitch when I tune, and it's just that the strings are too thick for only 3 springs.


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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:52 pm
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mosvalve wrote:
What you need to do is the following.

The string tension should match that of the spring tession. There should be a balance of tension.

1. loosen all the strings so the bridge lays flat on the guitar body then loosen the six srews on the plate of the bridge about a full turn.

2. the springs should be one on each end and one in the middle. Tighten the claw screws evenly a few turns. If the spring claw is close to the wall of the cavity then unscrew them so the claw is about 3/4" from the wall. The spring claw should be about a 1/2" or so from the cavity wall when your done.

3. Tune to pitch to see how far the bridge is from the guitar body. The goal is to get the bridge no less than 1/8th inch from the body.

4. Once you have the bridge at 1/8th or it can be slightly higher while tuned to pitch your done. Now tighten the six screws starting from the two end screws a qurter turn and your done.

The process is:

Loosen strings a little,
tighten claw,
tune to pitch.
Keep doing this until the bottom of the bridge is 1/8th inch from the top of the guitar body.

Hope this helps.

BobV


Will this work with my situation or should I just add springs?


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