Over the years I've come across a lot threads asking, in some form or other, "Is this a real Fender guitar." Sometimes it's from people who are looking at buying, but all too often it's from someone who has already purchased the instrument, got home and suddenly had that sinking feeling that they had just been robbed.

Personally I don't care if the guitar is a copy, even one that looks spot on, but I don't want people spending their hard earned money believing they have one thing, when they have something else. (This goes equally for all those people selling so called "Anniversary" Fender instruments with the little gold sticker or metal coil on the back of the headstock).

So in attempt to help anyone who's not as knowledgeable as others about Fender guitars, I've compiled some things that may, or may not, help you when looking for a Fender guitar. Keep in mind that there are a lot of fakes out there that are very, very good. Most of the time they aren't.

1. When trying to ID or authenticate an instrument, go online, find photos and information about the guitar you are interested in buying. There is so much out there on the web.

2. Have the owner or dealer take the guitar apart. Most aftermarket bodies and necks, such as Allparts and Warmoth have their logo on the necks and bodies. Look on line for photos of actual Fender instruments that have been taken apart.

3. If you are buying a Fender Custom Shop instrument make sure that the owner has the COA.

4. Find books on Fender instruments. There are a lot of great reference books on the subject.

5. Do what many people do before they spend the money: Ask the forum. There are great and knowledgeable people who are more than happy to answer any of your questions. Just make sure that you post good CLEAR pictures of the instrument. It's the first thing that the people on forum who are trying to help you will ask for. The pictures should contain the following:

a. The front and back of the head stock (to check serial numbers, keys, truss rod cover, logo and headstock shape).

b. Front and back of the body (to check body contours, color, pickups, bridge and plastic parts).

c. If possible, the pickup cavity, butt end of the neck and any paperwork the dealer may have on the guitar (to check pickups, wiring, solder joints, and cavity routs).

6. Slow down. This happens to everyone, to include yours truly. You find that special instrument for a great price and you are ready buy. But before you make a hasty decision caused by excitement, stop and take a moment to do your homework.

My own experience buying a Stratocaster: I was out looking for some Strats from the '70s to hear what the pickups sounded like, I happened upon an old beat up '79 Strat in a 2nd hand guitar store. I had no intentions on actually buying the guitar, but instantaneously fell in love with it. I asked how much. "$865.00." Okay, fair price, but pickups didn't sound like anything out of the '70s. They sounded more like Texas Specials. So I had the dealer take apart the guitar and find out what was going on under the hood. Right off the bat I saw that one of the tone pots and the pickups (Van Zandt pickups) were aftermarket. Not wanting to lose the sale, the dealer dropped the price to $730.00. Even though the pickups weren't original, I still wanted the guitar. It had so much mojo, a great neck and sounded amazing.

So armed with my new guitar, I went home to play. As soon as I got home, pulled the guitar out of the case and started taking a closer look. I looked over the body and quickly realized that the body contours were not like my other Strats. I knew that the body contours were chunky, but I wasn't too familiar with this era of Fender instruments. The one thing that sent the alarms ringing was when I noticed that front contour was almost non-existent. Also the tuning keys looked period correct, but the buttons looked like they were made of chrome covered plastic. I was suddenly having that sinking feeling, "Is this the real deal?"

I'm more experienced than this and I should know better. In all my excitement I hadn't listen to my own rules. Seeing that neck and other parts were authentic, I was still convinced that everything was legit. I just needed more information. So I started poking around the web and asked people on the website for information. God bless the internet.
My fears were quickly dashed when I found tons of photos of other late '70s Strats with body contours just like mine. I also got great feedback for other people in the lounge (thanks, jpmist). My thanks to Southcoast, who sent me a great, "late '70s Stratocaster" link. It turned out that everything was in order. Thanks to website I learned the actual manufacture date, original color and that the tuning keys of that period in fact had chrome covered plastic buttons.

The most important advice I can give you hen buying a second hand instrument is: Do your homework first. The more you know, the better informed decisions you will make.

I hope this helps and good luck!

ROTFLMAO

Someone that makes fake Fenders warning people about fake Fenders?

Besides, there are already a much better threads here, several called "How to spot a fake."

The search for "How to spot a fake":
http://www.fender.com/search.php?searchType=site&cx=010175269014802016829:ot8pgfghlic&cof=FORID%3A10&ie=UTF-8&q=How%20to%20spot%20a%20fake

One of the more informative threads:
http://www.fender.com/community/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=35431

_________________
---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.

Yeah, why not. He knows what to look out for

Cheers

David

_________________
"Humans think they are smarter than dolphins because we build cars and buildings and start wars etc...and all that dolphins do is swim in the water, eat fish and play around. Dolphins believe that they are smarter for exactly the same reasons."

Seems like a good comprehensive overview if you ask me.
Luckily, I've never been tricked, and being armed with good information like this will likely reduce the chances that I ever will be.
Thanks for insights, paris.

david (another one, not to be confused with "Cheers David")

David[/quote]

Seems like a good comprehensive overview if you ask me.
Luckily, I've never been tricked, and being armed with good information like this will likely reduce the chances that I ever will be.
Thanks for insights, paris.

david (another one, not to be confused with "Cheers David")[/quote]

Thanks. Though it is true that only two, of my 10+ guitars, are copies; but they are for me and no one else.

In fact to prevent anyone from selling them as the real deal after I'm dead, I'm planning on have the words, "Fender copy" stamped into the neck and body where everyone can see it.

If a person is buying a guitar they should know what exactly they are getting. The seller should let the buyer know all the facts. For instance if some of the parts have been replaced, the buyer should say something. Even as far as letting the buyer know if any work has been done on the guitar (i.e. Frets replaced).

If for some reason I ever do decide to sell my copies, I'm going to tell them everything there is to know about the guitar.

Aw, heck, give yourself some credit and put your autograph where the logo should be

I've only been playing for a year-and-a-half and I could have been spotted as an ignorant newbie from a mile away.
(and some days, I still am)
Folks need to know to ask, research, and count to ten before forking over cash.

david

Wow. A scam artist making a thread about how not to get scammed. Now Ive read it all.

Paris

I am pleased I was able to help. I hope you are still enjoying the guitar.

good advice

I actually did all this when buying my last Gibson. As excited as I was to find it, when I got approval from the wife to spend $1500 on a used Les Paul and a Vox AC15VR amp I found on Kijiji as a package deal, I did a ton of research on the guitar to make sure it was legit.

A quick search on Google confirmed this limited edition model did exist and searching Ebay gave me a good idea of the selling price to expect - the particular one I was buying was at the low end of the price range, but in better condition than some examples I'd seen at the top of the price range.

I even took the serial number off the pics and sent it to Gibson to verify it belonged to the particular model of LP that I was buying. Gibson got back to me not just with confirmation that the SN was correct for the model of LP, but also told me what dealer it sold the guitar to. It was a store a 5 or 6 hour drive from here, but they were a chain and had a location here too - I went to the local chain and was even able to get the name of the original purchaser... it turned out to be the same guy selling. Needless to say, I got my Les Paul.

When I got my Strat I went the safest route possible by going to an Authorized Fender Dealer and buying it new... but if I ever bought a used strat, you can bet I'll do my homework again before making my purchase.

It's great. The neck still needs some tweaking (some minor fret buzzing).

Thanks!

Great to hear. It's sounds like you got a great deal.

Again, you miss the point. How is it that you can be so obtuse?

hey paris...may I expand on your original post?
(and if it deviates too much, I will respectfully delete it)

I got to thinking how lucky I was to get a legit unit without ANY education on the subject or other forewarnings.
There I was, just blindly ordering a MIM standard because I heard good reviews,
and the only thing I spent any time researching was what color I wanted.

#1- I did not test-drive any guitar for feel, sound, fit,...nothing.
#2- I just ordered on-line from a dealer I just faithfully presumed was legit.
#3- The guitar passed through many hands, including shipping/delivery
THE THREE THINGS YOU MUST AVOID WHEN YOU BUY A GUITAR !

After reading so many horror stories, it's a miracle I received a legit, very nice sounding, playable, and undamaged guitar. I didn't just doge a bullet, I dodged a whole spray of bird-shot.

Buyers need to be advised, in addition to authenticity, how important it is to shop patiently and then to carry it home yourself if at all possible. I know this sounds ridiculously obvious, but there are tons of folks out there (like me) who go charging into the fire and then whine because they got burned.

Thanks,
david

David,


Thanks for the input and I totally agree. I generally don't buy anything I didn't play first. On two occasions I've placed special orders and I too have gotten lucky.

This is generally my plan of attack when buying a guitar:

1. Play the guitar through an amp that is the same model or as close as possible at the one you have at home.

2. Play it unplugged first.

3. Play several of the same model of guitar. Sometimes you might pick up a bad one.

4. Make sure that the fit and finish is squared away. I've been noticing a lot of shotty fret work on many of the Fender guitars at GC. At first I thought it was Fender, but I've been informed that it has to do with the humidity. The neck will dry out and shrink; allowing the edges of the frets to hang off the edge. This is one of my pet peeves.

5. When you buy the guitar have the store do a quick set up. Hell you're paying good money. They could at least make sure that it's set up properly. Nothing fancy, mostly the intonation and action.

6. This not a must, but it can stop an impulsive and regretful purchase. Go away from the guitar for a little bit. If possible, have the store put the guitar on hold (this will most likely require money on your part). Twice I've played guitars that on first playing, thought were the sh*t only to come back on a different date and find that I didn't like them as much as I thought. Buying a guitar is an emotional purchase and we can get caught up in all the excitement.

Thanks for your reply. I always appreciate positive input from everyone in the lounge.