Hi guys,

I am doing a mod to my '56 NOS Custom Shop to replicate a Strat 'Autograph'.

The gear I have is ....

NECK - Seymour Duncan SSL-1 Vintage Staggered Pickup (Bridge or Neck)
MIDDLE - Seymour Duncan SSL-1 Vintage Staggered Pickup (Middle RW/RP)
BRIDGE - DiMarzio DP110SP Pickup
Push/Pull Potentiometer (DPDT Switch) 250k, Audio Taper
CRL 5 Way Switch For Stratocaster (USA)
Sprague %27 Orange Drop 0.1 Capacitor .1CAP-Od
2 x CTS 250k Split Shaft Audio Taper Pots
2’ Vintage Style Cloth Wire 22 Gauge – Black
2’ Vintage Style Cloth Wire 22 Gauge – White

I desperately need a diagram showing how the 'Autograph' is wired.

Can anyone help asap please?

Rgds - Clivea

Maybe it's me but what is a "Strat Autograph"?

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It's not just you my giant green alien friend! I too have no idea what that is either, but I am intrigued.

Maybe the OP will enlighten us with a some more details?

Andy

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Pending Greatness

Hi guys,

It is a Hank Marvin Autograph Custom Shop Stratocaster, fiesta red with gold hardware, first issued in 1995 at a cost of £2995 (then).

The kit 'under the bonnet' is as I've listed.

Can you help?

Admittedly, I am not up on Hank Marvin's guitar wiring idiosyncrasies. So if you would, please explain how you want the wiring on your guitar to work. I should point out though that you are probably going to run into a phasing problem with the DiMarzio vs. the Duncans.

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Excuse my ignorance, I'm not really tech minded, but what phasing problems can I expect, I don't really understand this phasing business, perhaps you would be kind enough to explain.

Thanks.

That hollow, nasal, weak and tinny sound, often with an increase in hum is when two pickups are on together and out of phase. This could be due to one of the pickup's coil's winding direction OR the magnet's directional charge in terms of north - south orientation.

Simply stated, phasing is the relationship of one pickup's winding direction and/or magnetic charge to another. For example, you have a RW/RP SSL-1 for the middle position. RW/RP means, "Reverse Wound/Reverse Polarity. One pickup's coil is wound in a north to south direction vs. the the other SSL-1's which is wound in the opposite direction. The same condition exists for the charge of the magnets, one pickup to the other. So, what happens is, when a 'regular' one is selected with a RW/RP pickup, the two create a humbucking effect. Enter the DiMarzio. IIRC, it is either reverse polarity but not reverse wound or vice versa to that of a 'regular' SSL-1. This will create an out of phase sound as described above which requires the DiMarzio to be reverse wired. With the RW/RP SSL-1, you may lose the humbucking mode or these two will be out of phase when on together. As you can now see, if it was the DiMarzio vs. only one of the SSL-1s you have, it could be easily sorted out but because of the two 'types' of SSL-1s, you may have to do some serious lead flippings until all three pickups 'agree' with each other where again, the humbucking effect may or may not prevail as anticipated.

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V interesting! You have explained it well my friend.

What I can't understand is that I've been led to believe that the pick ups are exactly as was on the 'Autograph', so I wouldn't really expect a problem.

What if the S/Duncans were swapped over? ie the middle used for neck and the neck used for middle?

If a 'no go' what would you do in this situation?

Eventually in some wiring of the leads scheme, all three pickups will conform and cohabitate. In a direct answer to your question though, yes, the Duncans can be swapped. The swap might be convenient on one level but the fact that there's a push/pull pot involved implies in the strongest terms that a neck/bridge pickups and a neck/middle/bridge pickups combos are part of the package. So again, a "hunt and peck" of which way to wire each of the three pickups leads for compatibility will probably be required. Of note too is the fact that DiMarzio offers RW and/or RP of the FS-1 so whether either or both factored into Marvin's particular mix or not, I don't know.

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Thanks again.

I have to say that 99% of my music is played using the bridge p/up, therefore it is important to me that the tone from the bridge p/up is top quality.

If I understand you correctly, the middle S/Duncan may be in conflict with the FS1 bridge p/up, so is it a good idea to try swapping the S/Duncans over?

So then, taking into account that I use the bridge p/up (FS1) 99% of the time, and that I will maybe swap over the S/Duncans, how would you suggest I wire it all up?

You're welcome.

I am responding to both your above posts.

Again, based on my experience, you will probably run into at least one of the above two conflicting scenarios. In reality, you MAY or MAY NOT, based on how the DiMarzio you have is constructed. Either way though, swapping the Duncans around will not make either of these POSSIBLE conflicts go away. First and foremost, let's get your guitar wired up. Use this diagram and once wired, we shall see what we shall see:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wi ... witch_f_bp

Note that you can use the push/pull pot wired appropriately as one of your tone controls, it doesn't have to be for the volume pot as shown on the diagram.

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I appreciate your help.

I can easily follow the diagram, but it appears the lower tone control is as standard and not push/pull, there are a few more 'lugs' on the push/pull ?????? So I'm unsure.

The 'switch' part of the push/pull pot is it's own entity as are the terminals of the 'pot' part of it. Both the 'pot' part of the push/pull pot and the 'regular' pot have the same three terminals (lugs).

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The push/pull pot has 3 lugs accross the bottomhorizontally and 3 lugs either side vertically. Can I take it that I only use the bottom 3 and ignore the others?