I have a 60's mexican strat reissue and I'm slightly proud to announce that I have broken the tremolo system. The threads have broken so it won't screw all the way down.
If I can't fix it with glue I'm going to need a new one. I use it an awful lot so I'm thinking it would be worth getting a decent replacement. I was happy enough with the one already on the guitar but can anyone recommend a good one and perhaps explain the benefits of paying for a better quality one.

Tom

The Mexican Classic series bridge has the same dimensions as the US Reissue bridge, but the Mexican bridge has a full-size cast zinc block. Zinc screw threads are weak and a steel trem arm can easily strip them.

The rest of the bridge is good quality. I'd suggest just replacing the trem block with a steel block. Fender's AVRI block is a direct replacement. GFS and AllParts offer similar steel blocks that are much less expensive. Callaham's blocks are more expensive but have an improved trem arm mounting system.

Note that you need a US vintage spec block. Many people assume that all Mexican Fenders have narrower metric string spacing, but that's just the MIM Standard series -- Classics and Deluxes have US vintage blocks (just cast zinc instead of milled steel).

Besides being more durable, steel blocks have a fuller, clearer tone and often increase the sustain slightly.

Thank you strayedstrater for you fantastically informative response, it's very much appreciated.

I had assumed i would need to replace the whole thing so that's a bonus and i'm glad i waited before pouring super glue down the hole.

One more question. Is it easy to fit the block myself or will i need a pro/tech to set the guitar up again?

I do my own setups and don't consider them hard to do, although it took some practice and experimenting to get good at it. If you find setups hard you might need a pro to readjust things after you replace the block.

To change the block, you remove the strings, unhook the springs, move the saddles to get at the 3 screws that attach the block to the bridgeplate, unscrew those 3 screws to free the block, then put the new one in place.

To get the saddles out of the way you'll probably need to loosen the intonation screws quite a bit. You might even need to remove some of the saddles. The saddle height screws will probably move a bit during the process. So you'll generally need to readjust the intonation and the saddle heights after swapping the block.

And to unhook and rehook the springs, it's easiest to loosen them first by unscrewing the claw anchor part way. If you do that you have to readjust the claw so the spring tension is the same as it was before.

If you measure everything carefully before you start it shouldn't be hard to put everything back like it was after replacing the block.

Great! Really, really helpful again.

I think I'll be able to do that myself, It doesn't seem like much can go wrong.

A few additional comments/variations regarding servicing the tremolo: In addition to what's already been said about removing the old block, I've found it easier and faster in this particular situation to have the tremolo system in hand for servicing. This requires removing the six pivot screws to free it from the guitar. As to moving the claw, I don't bother. Rather, I just pop the springs out by hand and when I reinstall them, I hook them into the block and use a narrow bladed, flat head screw driver to reloop their other end back onto the claw.

Even if you choose not to remove the six pivot screws for servicing, before restringing or even respringing, pay careful attention to how they are mating with the bridge plate and in turn, how the plate is mating with the guitar's body The screws should be in just far enough to gently flush with the plate which in turn, should have the plate flush with the the guitar's body.

Shy of you may or may not having to adjust the neck once all is said and done, refloating the tremolo along with resetting your action and intonation surely will be required. Consider also, the fact that you snapped a steel arm in a zinc block which implies there was too much spring tension and/or you are too aggressive with the arm.

Lastly, Crazy Glue (et. al) does not work well for reattaching stretched and snapped steel, especially if it will be under constant pressure such as with a tremolo arm.

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You dig?

Another suggestion. There used to be a product made by Thread Lock or Locktite that is made to restore stripped threads. It's major application is with things like stripped spark plug threads. Check your local auto parts store and see if they have such a thing. Its far easier.

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TOO MANY GUITARS, TOO LITTLE TIME!

Current Stable:
Fender Stratocaster MIM 07
Squire II Stratocaster MIK 89?
ESP LTD MH-100QM
Jackson KE3 Kelly MIJ

The only reliable way to replace damaged threads is Helicoil and, frankly, more bother than it's worth for this application requiring specialist tools etc. It involves enlarging the hole, tapping a thread for the insert, screw the insert in with a special tool. Replacing the block and arm is way more straightforward.