Hey all,

I've been really digging Jeff Beck recently, and as a result, have wanted to try and learn some of the tricks of his trade. This obviously involves the use of the tremolo, and though I don't have the tremolo set-up to be able to bend like Beck's can (with a M3 on the G-string, etc.), a couple of bends stick quickly knocks my guitar out of tune.

I'm currently using an all-stock left-handed 2008 MIM Fender Stratocaster, and have tried to read up on some tips to increases tuning stability. However, before spending a ton of money on parts, I was hoping to get some advice on where to go from here.

I've never actually lubed up the guitar nut with graphite -- so that's something I'll definitely try -- but I was wondering if the simple addition of locking tuners would be enough to get by? Or at least enough to play for awhile before having to re-tune? And are there any other steps I should take after that? (Unfortunately, LSR Rolling Nuts are not available in left-handed models...)

Thanks a ton!

Locking tuners an a slippery nut do go a huge way to tuning stability. Set the trem up right and after a lot of fiddling, you'd be surprised what the vintage style trem can do.

One of my Strats has the usual six screw vintage trem, a graphite nut and Schaller locking tuners on, and it's actually my guitar of choice for Beck-style severe whammy abuse, as it comes back in tune spot on every time, with plenty of upbend ability.

It's actually better than my Strat Plus (two point trem, Schaller locking tuners and roller nut, same spec as Beck's in that regard) for that style of thing - I've never quite cracked the ability to set the two point trem up quite as well as the old vintage style.

You'll definitely need to sort the nut out though - I use powdered graphite (sold as lock lubricant) for my other guitars, works a treat, but can be messy as hell if you're not prepared.

For optimal tuning stability use a deluxe locking tremolo.

Thanks for the responses so far! I'm glad to hear of the success you've been able to have with the 5-point trem, Vulpinity, as that is what I have.

It looks like the locking tuners would be a good choice then. In terms of the nut, would something like this be a good investment?
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessor ... 8000000000

If you go locking tuners, you should consider a LSR roller nut:



I have it, it's fantastic.

Cheers

David

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Thanks for the suggestion of the LSR, but unfortunately they do not make a left-handed version of the roller nut.

The deluxe locking tremolo was not available for lefties. Fender discontinued this product in 2007.

Before you go to expense lube the nut with some kind of lubricant then make sure the inside 4 screws are not tightened all the way down on the bridge, loosen them until they are slightly floating. If those screws are tightened fully the tremolo will never return to correct pitch, it'll bind somewhere. The outer two screws on my Clapton are loosened off a little too and with this set up the tremolo stays pretty much in tune. Now and then it might go out a tad but depress the bar a bit and you're back in tune.

All the fancy nuts and the rest are great but remember that Jeff used to do all his work on a regular strat before he got the strat plus and the sig model.

Moral of the story is that, when set up well the standard system can do the job for you.

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Luck won't do it and ignorance can't

George Van Eps.

My Strat, with full floating trem, has the most stable tuning of any guitar I've owned, including non-trem guitars. I bend strings a lot, and can use my trem aggressively and stay in tune. After several songs, I can check my tuning and it's on the money. How?

Basically, it's the NUT.

No better way to illustrate than to rest your first finger across the strings near one of the lower frets and work the trem up and down. You'll feel a lot of movement back and forth. Your strings have to move through the nut slots like poop through a goose...greased lightning...teflon on wet ice. Any catching and you're hosed. There should be NO "ping" sounds ever. The slots must be the correct width to accommodate the strings and their bottoms should be SMOOTH.

When the strings are off your guitar, you should take an individual string, place it in it's slot, push down on it with your fingers, and slide it back and forth. Even with no lube, it should glide freely. ANY binding is a problem if you want the string to return to pitch.

Don't trust a tech to cut the slots right. Check them. After they're cut, it's a good idea to smooth them with 600 grit sandpaper.

Only after the nut is right do you want to lube it. My personal fave is plain old petroleum jelly. Two bucks worth will last a decade. Apply to each slot with a toothpick, so each string is immersed in a slot full of grease. Do this EVERY time you change strings.

Locking tuners will help. I wouldn't own a guitar without 'em.

Check that none of your trem springs are rubbing on the body. Adjust as needed.

When I aggressively wiggle my whammy bar, my entire trem unit is almost silent. No "scrunching" sound coming from the spring cavity. I figure any racket from there is a sign of friction. I put a dab of petroleum jelly on each of the spring ends where they go into the sustain block, and even a little dab on the spring ends at the claw. And I put a little dab where the bridge plate rests on the screws (mine happens to be a two point trem). When I'm done, my trem action is silky smooth and whisper quiet. And no, I've never had a problem with the p-jelly getting things gunky. Just wipe off the excess.

By the way, nut material isn't a big factor. Mine's Corian, and my other guitar is bone. Both stay in tune once cut, sanded, and lubed.

Thanks a ton, everyone! I've decided to go with the locking tuners, the new nut, and to give the vaseline a go -- just yanking on the tremolo right now, I can hear "pings" from the string-tree/nut area, and some creaking on the springs in back. I've also never lubricated any part of the guitar before (and I've had it for 3+ years now), so I'm sure that will help a bunch.

You got it. Those pings are the enemy. You probably get pings from bending individual strings with your fingers, too. Good luck.

Thanks for pointing that out, I agree that this is the best that you can get with a six-screw bridge, and is apparently many people's definition of "staying perfectly in tune". Kind of hard to conceal the fact that many people use this trick, yet they will deny it and insist that they don't do it.

The bridge is the weak point as far as tuning stability, and a two-screw is obviously more stable than a six-screw. Adding locking tuners also helps, but nothing is as stable as a double locking system.

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This may be a dumb question, but when you say to make sure the "inside 4 screws are not tightened all the way down on the bridge," where exactly is that? I see the 6 screws on the top of the bridge (by the bottom of the pickguard), but that's all.

EDIT: Also, will a pair of Schaller Locking Tuners work on a left-handed guitar? I didn't even bother to think if tuners were hand specific...

That's right those are the one's i mean, the 6 screws immediately in front of the saddles. Loosen the inside 4 until there's a very small gap, just enough so that they can't bind the bridge and stop it returning to pitch. I also don't tighten the outer 2 up hard either.

Those tuners should work on a lefty, can see no reason why they wouldn't.

Remember to lube under the string tree's as well and the nut slots. Good thing about locking tuners is they eliminate the need for the string tree's and do away with another source of friction.

_________________
Luck won't do it and ignorance can't

George Van Eps.