For a two-pivot model such as the American Series bridge, use your tremolo arm to pull the bridge back flush with the body and adjust the two pivot screws to the point where the tremolo plate sits entirely flush at the body (not lifted at the front or back of the plate).

This is taken from the "how to" guide for Stratocaster setup guide on this site.

Can anyone clarify this any more? pictures perhaps?

Thanks

I don't think that it's the pivot posts that need to be adjusting. You will need to tighten to two screws that hold the claw in the tremolo cavity and/or add more springs to pull the bridge flush to the body. BTW, this really doesn't have anything to do with tuning stability.

Yeah i just find it strange. not quite sure what they are referring to

I would just do what 93greenstrat said as messing with the other would probably cause the guitar to need to be properly set up and intonated again. Another trick for tuning stability is to make sure you have two winds on every string and add the springs to the back of the claw as mentioned. This has really helped me alot and I do it to all of my strats hasn't failed me yet

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This is simply the adjustment to make if necessary, as part of the setup, so that the bridge plate is flush/parallel with the body when the bridge is pulled to it's lowest position while using the whammy bar. Make the adjustment if needed, and continue to use whammy.

If you want to keep the bridge in place and not use the whammy, that's different, then do as suggested and tighten the trem claw screws and/or add springs to keep the bridge from moving, even while bending strings (still needs to be set flush). This would be for tuning stability, as you wouldn't use the whammy, and the bridge stays put for double-stop bends and such.

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thank you. thats what i needed

Does the American Standard Strats come shipped with extra trem springs if you want a fixed, flushed to the body trem setup? I don't use the trem at all and I find having the trem flushed on the body gives greater sustain and tone.

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No they don't but you can go into any Fender dealer and order some or buy online.

What kingofsquire said! I decked the tremolo of my Am. Std. Strat by adding springs and tightening the claw screws slightly. Before adding springs I used the tremolo bar to push my bridge plate until it touched the top of the guitar. My plate was noticeably lifted at the front when doing this. A slight downward adjustment of the pivot screws (as described in the "how to") allowed the plate to rest completely flat against the guitar. With no pressure on the bridge I intentionally over adjusted the pivot screws and the back of the plate would lift off the body. So, I adjusted just to the point where the bridge plate laid flat.

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Can I turn the pivot screws while the guitar is tuned to pitch? I'm wondering if it will ruin the knife edges on the trem

Kingof esquire. Thank you very much for that perfectly descriptive procedure. I currently use 3-1 oil for all the (metal on metal) lubrication for my les paul and floyd rose equipped carvin. Straight up graphite works well in the nut. Do you find wd-40 works better?

Another question though. Should I use chap stick for the string tree like it says in the manual or would 3-1 oil be a better choice?

Thanks again.

p.s. What do you mean by decking the tremolo? pulling up? I was thinking about one day doing the whole callaham thing. I think a stainless steel trem is included

I should have noted that i still meant for the trem to float a little. But I still understand what you meant.