Hi All,
Just been lucky enough to be given a Classic Player 60s guitar in sonic blue, my uncle who kindly gave it to me thinks it may need a new neck due to it bowing.
I was just wondering if this turns out to be the case will I be able to get a replacement direct from fender?
My friend has the Classic Player 50s with the soft V neck in maple, I really love that neck... Would this bolt straight onto my guitar?
Ive seen a few on Ebay but they seem quite expensive!
I'd really prefer a Fender neck.
Any help would be really appreciated!!
Thanks.
Simon.

if its just a little bowed, maybe you need adjust relief. i take your uncle doesnt really know how o set up a strat right? not insulting just making an observation by your statement.
chances are you dont need a new neck, just a good set up.

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oogway, kungfu panda 2008

oh yeah, 1st post huh, welcome to the forum.
let see some pics...

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"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the present."

oogway, kungfu panda 2008

Hi hammersss,

Have you tried adjusting the truss-rod? The screw at the heel (body-end) of the neck is for an adjustable rod inside the neck to adjust the bow. The setup guide explains this and more (link below). Just scroll down to "Truss Rod". As far as a replacement neck, Fender doesn't sell them separately (not yet at least), but if your neck is messed up, you could check for warranty. The 4-hole pattern for the neck mounting screws, is the same on both of the guitars that you mentioned, so you should be able to interchange necks.

http://www.fender.com/support/articles/stratocaster-setup-guide

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+1

The 5-year warranty is everyone's best friend in a situation like this (if the neck cannot be adjusted to spec via the truss rod).

Arjay

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"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY

except fender offers 1yr warranty on this issue with a receipt. i replaced the neck on my cp 60s with the warranty with 2 wks left off the 1 yr warranty

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"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the present."

oogway, kungfu panda 2008

Here is a post I can speak first hand about, if you look at some of my earlier posts; I had the SAME neck, and desire to replace it. First off, it may indeed need to just have the truss rod adjusted; if ITS JUST a bow. Some of these necks have the problem of twisting. If that's the case, you MAY be able to adjust the truss rod to straighten it out, as long as the twist isnt too bad.
I wanted to get a new one for a couple reasons;
1) I didnt like the radius. I found the 7 1/4" radius to be too round, and with the small vintage frets, it would choke out when i bent too deeply. I had to keep the action higher.
This can be addressed by a luthier if this is something you dont like. I compounded the frets from the 9th down. at 9 it went to a 9", at the 12'th it went to a 10" the 15th; 12". You can also have all the frets just flattend to a 9 or 10", while keeping the fretboard the same. This will keep you from having to spend $225-250 for a refret (maple is more).

2) I wanted the thicker V profile. I like having more wood in my hands (neck wood that is, and my own).

I did the same thing you're doing; looking for a replacement Fender neck. I ended up building a whole new guitar, using a one piece body that i sanded, and shaved different parts so it fit my needs.
And I got a Warmoth replacement neck. I bought this with a thick Boat neck, that i first reprofiled to a V, then took some wood off the treble side shoulder. It's literally fit for my hands.

I wanted a Fender neck, because I didnt want to look like I had a cheap neck. I can tell you from experience. You can get a better quality neck for less than it would cost you for a Mexican Fender neck. If you absolutely HAVE to get a fender decal, get one. But I'm at the point now where I just care about tone and playability. Everyone who sees my strat, w/no name on the headstock all crack jokes when they see it (they all have high $$ custom shops). But, EVERYONE who plays it for 10 minutes, instantly want to give me anything for it. So screw a name.

I got a Vintage Pro, i believe Warmoth call it, not the complete vintage (they only come in 7 1/4" radius), or the Pro, that has the truss rod adjustment on the side. This is in between.
Its quartersawn maple; flawless, abalone inlays, 10-16" compounded radius. *About this; I had no desire for a compounded radius, i was use to a straight radius. My buddy who builds guitars from scratch talked me into it, he said Id be happy for getting it, and he's right. It doesnt really feel any different from a regular 9 1/2". I guess if you barre chords at the 12th fret you may find it to be a bit different, but hell, most Super strat type have 14-20" radius anyway, and how often are you playing barre chords that high up on the neck.
I got it with 6105 fretwire. I liked the width of the vintage frets, but didnt like how short they were. I used 12 gauge strings for a while, then I went from tuning to Eb, to E, and went with 11s(now i use a set of 11s on the low E, A, and G string, and 10s for the D, B and high E. These heavier strings, along with heavy bending, actually flattened the frets a bit anyway, due to bending the G and B the most.
I bought the neck unfinished, I find warmoth put the finish on too thick for my taste, and i wanted a tinted nitro.
I payed about $180 for the neck. Did the reprofiling, and i thinned the headstock, with it tapering toward the high E. My friend shot the neck with a tinted nitro, he charge me around $70 (most of this was the cost of the finish).

I'd recommend doing this, I firmly believe in the end, you'll be much happier. If its just a case of your present neck needing to have its truss rod adjusted, you should be able to sell it pretty easy for $150, maybe more.

** With the neck on the body, and the strings tuned to pitch, fret both E strings at the last fret, and either usinge tape, or a capo, capo the first fret and use the strings as kind of a straight edge. Look down the lenght of the neck, from the headstock and see if the heights are about equal. If they're not, your neck is twisted, this is quite a more significant problem then just too much relief in the neck. If its not; take a scew driver, and at the heal of the neck, turn the scew for the truss rod clockwise. I recommed doing this with the body, and strings still on. To do it, take the two neck bolts, the ones closest to the bridge (furthest from the headstock) off, then loosen the two others, just enough that it allows you to tilt the neck back and grant you access to the truss rod. Turn it about 1/8 of a turn CCW (to loosen the bolt on the truss rod a bit, it may be on there tight if it hasnt been adjusted,)then turn it 1/4 the way clockwise (twice as much as you turned it CCW). bolt the neck back down, retune the strings back up to pitch, take the capo off obviously, and check to see if it straightend the neck out. If it needs more straightening, repeat the steps, this time you wont need to turn it CCW, you already loosend it the first time.

If you turned it too much ( you probably dont want a neck perfectly straight, unless you dont mind fret buzz) do the same things with the capo, looseing the strings, etc. so you can now turn it CCW to give it more relief. Remember; these arent dual action truss rods. With those, the truss rod will adjust the neck forward, or back. These only really work to make it straight. SO if you need to add relief, keep in mind after you turn the truss rod to loosen it, it may not go right back , it may need some time from the strings tension, and your playing to put the relief back in it.

This is just so your neck is sellable. If you really want a Fender neck, I suggest putting it on craigslist under the musical instrument section, put For Sale/Trade; what you have. Then tell people what it is, and what you're lookng for in trade. I dont know how big of an area you live, but im sure someone will want to trade for it, or buy it. Remeber its a MIM, dont worry about any future value, there really isnt except what its really worth. Keep your eye open though. My friend has a 90's MIM reissue, the older ones made out basswood. It has a beautiful flamed maple neck, stock, but though its a 50s, it doesnt really have a V neck on it.

Good luck

Crap, sorry Simone, I didnt actually answer your question; yes a Fender 50's classic player will bolt directly onto your body.
The MIM i had was actually a factor special run, they made like 250. It was called a 5760. It had a 57 body, with a 1960 neck. It was actually the only production, non artist at the time that you could ge with a two tone sunburst with a rosewood fretboard. Usually the rosewood come with 3 tone.

I'm thinking maybe you're talking about a different guitar and different neck than the OP is speaking of. The Classic Player '50's and '60's Strat's don't have the vintage 7.25" fretboard radius. The CP '50's is 9.5" with medium jumbo frets, and the CP 60's is 12" if I'm not mistaken. You mentioned you had a MIM "5760" guitar so maybe that guitar had the vintage radius but the Classic Player Strats do not. Now the MIM CLASSIC SERIES do have vintage specs. They're more like the American Vintage line, but the Classic Player line is maybe a bit more like the Vintage Hot Rods. They're vintage designs, with modern refinements. I believe the CP '60's has CS '69 pickups.

In response to the OP, as others have mentioned, a truss rod adjustment might do the trick but I wouldn't really recommend doing it yourself if you don't have any expirience with it. It's easy enough to do, but to be on the safe side, take it to a luthier.

You mention the CP '50's neck. I absolutely love a '50's style V-shape neck. I never really cared what profile shape my guitar necks had until I played a V shaped neck and fell in love it. If indeed you decide to go with a CP '50's neck, it will bolt right on perfectly to your CP '60's body. You just gotta make sure the neck is resting good and snug in the body joint the way it's supposed to. Anywayz, whatever you wind up doing, good luck with it.

+1

Arjay

_________________
"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY

put the capo on the 1st fret, depress the 21 fret on your guitar,now look at the 7th fret
whats the distance between the wire and string, 1,2,3 playing cards thickness.
if you want to try it, use flat head,phillips head screwdriver, masking tape


detune the strings very loosely without coming off the pegs. apply a capo to the 1st fret.
1. apply a piece of masking tape to to the back plate to hold it in place.
2. hold the neck to the body firmly, and unscrew the neck from the body, carefully.
3 while holding the neck and body together flip it over slowly lift the neck up off the body.
4. using a flat head screwdriver carefully turn the screw at the heel of the neck 1/4 turn.
5. place neck on the body, make sure its snug and start screwing back the neck.
6. remove capo, tune up, put the capo back on, depress the 21 fret on your guitar.
now look at the 7th fret, if there is a playing cards thickness between the fretwire and
string, your good to go.
yake your time is the way to go.

_________________
"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the present."

oogway, kungfu panda 2008

My fault, you're right, should have read more carefully. But they'll all go from one body to another.