This was my first proper electric, but hasn't been used much in recent years because original parts have been hard to impossible to find. I recently decided to make the best of it with currently available parts for other Fender models and from 3rd parties. The alternative would have been to retire it completely, as pots and internal circuit-board were defect.

This guitar was AFAIK the first from Fender with a 9V-driven mid-boost kit. The currently available mid-boost-kit-circuitboard fits and has the same connections so I decided to try one. The new kit works, but there are some minor issues compared to the original one:

1. The new boost/preamp-kit does not have a connection for the hum-canceling coil that the elite-strat is equipped with. It may not be necessary, but is there a way to utilize the coil with the new circuit-board?

2. The new boost/preamp-kit has a 250K pot that control the level of mid-freq boost. Anything beyond 2 or 3 on the 1-10-scale drives the output level way too high. Would it be an idea to replace this 250K with a 50K like the one used on the original kit in an attempt to widen the usable range?


Then there's the issue with the bridge on this model. It has a contraption called the FreeFlyte tremolo (by Schaller). I guess the bridge was the reason why the model only was produced for a year or so. It has it's tuning problem and most people use it with the bridge locked, or like me, with the bridge flush against the body. I'd love a replacement like the SuperV or any of the alternatives that fit a standard strat body, but haven't found anything that fits a body routed for the FreeFlyte without some serious modifications. Please let me know if there are alternatives. For now I've opted for a set of TUSQ saddles and nut along with a set of locking tuners. This actually seems to solve the tuning issue as long as I don't try to go all the way to a free floating bridge.

Hello pheldal,
which mid boost kit did you get, the Fender/Clapton kit comes with a 50k pot, from what I've read the 250k pots just make the thing scream, and not in a good way. I don't think you are going to find any kind of replacement trem for such an obscure guitar, and as I have told others,(there have been a few threads on the same idea) why mess with a little piece of Fender history, it's much easier to get another Strat and fun looking. Anyway, how 'bout some show 'n' tell? here's mine

had to take it down to the hardware store to find an adjustment screw for the bridge, of course I found the old one jammed up under the trem when I was messing with the new one

I got the Fender/Clapton kit.



The circuit board for the Clapton-kit is the same design as the original Elite one except that it has no routing for the hum-canceling coil. I haven't examined every component on the board in great detail though. It does however not seem as the removal of the hum-canceling coil has any negative effect.

The center pot on the Clapton-kit is identical to the original, as is the volume-pot (50K). The difference is the mid-boost-pot which is a 250k while the original Elite had a 50K. The result is that it now works as before in the range 1-3 or so while a setting of 4 or more makes it scream. This is why I'm considering to swap in a new 50K pot instead to widen the usable range. The Clapton-kit generally raises output level compared to the old circuit. This is not a bad thing as the original circuit on my Elite produced a very weak signal compared to my passive Gibson LP and PRS guitars.




Agree completely. I did consider to modify the body at some point in the early 90s, but decided to keep it original. What I've replaced are the bits which are expected to be replaced occasionally due to wear and tear. I've used original parts if at all possible, and kept old parts so it can be restored to its original state. The only woodwork I've done is new pin-holes on the back of the headstock for a set of locking tuners (Sperzel). These holes are covered by the original tuners if they are to be put back on. The only other visible modifications are a black Graphtec-nut and a set of Graphtec-saddles on the bridge ... and I've removed the string-trees as they are not necessary with the new tuners. Visually I would have preferred a set of original saddles but I haven't been able to locate a set which is much less oxidized than the one I've already got. OTOH, the Graphtec-saddles do improve tuning stability.



Mine is identical, except from a rosewood neck. The Elite was my main guitar from 83' till the mid 90s so it does have a few scratches, but not too bad.