I will finalize and use tywraps when it is working the way I like, its just wired temp to see if it worked after the 7th revision...and it didnt. Soldering and unsoldering is a pain to do over and over again.

Everyone went away, and I posted a better pic of how the company had me wire it, and how I think it should be wired ( the blender) and I need some help ....please.

Can you blame them for going away? Using two different wiring diagrams, and deviating from both with unknown changes, using different parts than shown in the diagrams, just adds to the confusion. You can accomplish the split coil and blender with much less wiring and components than you have now. I agree with the previous posts, it is unclear exactly what you want, or even if it can work with the components that you have. If it were me helping, I would need to have the pick guard in front of me and use a meter to see what in the heck is actually going on in that mess of wiring. IMO you have a case of over-engineering for starters (like the circuit board and terminal strips on the back of the volume pot). And, there is no circuit diagram of the volume pot connections, so who knows what is going on there.

As an example of too much, the four green wires with wire nut that are coming from the terminal strip, should be replaced with small jumpers at the terminal strip. Neat, electrically better, no added clutter. Actually, I would ditch the "liberator" altogether, unless you plan on changing your pup every other day.

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---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.

Howdy!

Hehehe!

I like a challenge and am still pondering this one!

Its the SD Liberator and the Mega E switch which are currently causing me issues as I have no experience with them.



The above with a coil split and a blend pot is perfectly do-able. I'm fairly certain I could provide a clear wiring diagram if you were using a Super 5way Switch and a standard volume pot.

With your current choice of components I'm afraid I am unable to help.

Andy

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Pending Greatness

I had you in mind when I posted Andybighair. But, it seems that I've over-estimated you, as I was sure that you could do it with a standard 5-way instead of the super (still using existing push-pull pot).

_________________
---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.

Yeah, its do-able with a standard 5 way but...

...For "or something good" you need a Super Switch.

Andy

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Pending Greatness

Gentlemen: since I'm an electronics simpleton and we have some of the best wiring brains on the Forum right here on this thread, could someone explain one thing for me, please?

What the heck IS that gizmo under the volume knob in this diagram? And what does it have to do with the OP's stated output requirements?



BTW: I'm disappointed in Andy too. I firmly believed he could make the whole thing happen with just an elastic band and a toothpick. And I still do!

And seriously, Andy: ignoring the switches and pots already purchased, why don't you show us how you'd achieve the requested sound options, no doubt using much simpler hardware? Your solutions are always elegant. I'm interested in the idea of blending between neck and bridge - a neater version of what we can do on a Les Paul, I guess.

And lastly, why do we only want to split the neck humbucker? Why not both, simultaneously, for traditional Stratesque sounds?

And then a cure for world poverty, please, oh Hairy One.

Cheers - C

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ctguy,

Normally the Liberator is used so that you don't have to solder pickups, but your drawing only has you connecting 1 pickup (the neck) to the Liberator. Are the other pups soldered to the 5-way?

I'll see if I can work through what you've posted here & come back with something. It may take a couple of days, though. Please standby.

Your bridge pup is only a 2-wire pup, right?

ctguy,

I see an error in that drawing. The Model E switch is an odd bird. Terminal 6 is connected to Terminal 3 in position 3 and to Terminal 4 in position 2. Terminal 3 is the output, Terminal 4 is normally ground. It's intended to be used for a 4 conductor bridge humbucker & it swaps the split (inside or outside coil) in positions 2 & 3. If you are wiring it for single coils - which is essentially what you are doing here - you can't ground terminal 4 or you will short the bridge pup to ground in position 2.

If you look at Eyb's instructions for the E model, you'll see that they leave terminal 4 open when the bridge pup is connected to both Terminals 6 & 7 with 3 single coils. I guess they are assuming that people know to ground all the pup wires in that scenario.

http://www.eyb-guitars.de/Eyb-English/M ... ch%20E.pdf


What pot did you get for the blender?

Oh, and the coil split push-pull is correct. with a SD pup wired like that, grounding the Red 7 White wires will give you the inside coil.

That blender circuit is what you would use if you had 2 pickups & no pickup selector switch - like in that drawing. You'll need to wire the blender like a stereo balance control or you won't be able to get just the neck or just the bridge pup by itself.

Stew-Mac has an example here:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics ... ns#details

It seems like the blender will pot will end up wiring kinda like independent volumes in front of the pup selector switch.

I'm pretty sure I can draw this up for you, including using the Liberator. I'll try to do it tomorrow.

YEA!!! Help is on the way !!! I am a NEWB......but I thank you all very much for trying to help me with this. The picture of the blender on the left with the other wiring......dont look at the right side wiring.....only the blender.......

I searched for the brand name of the blender and could not find it in my email. I had to order everything online.

At least I can solder.....but if you guys are confused, can you imagine how I feel >>>>> I received 7 different revisions from the electronics place I paid to help me set up the wiring and the fender authorized luthier at GC wanted to send it out. I bought the liberator so I could at least switch things without having to solder again and again....and I wanted a 500K instead of the original 250.

Everything is set up the way the large pic is.......... if they had the other pups soldered directly to the mega E switch, then that is what I did. I am willing to take the whole thing apart again, and start from scratch.