Why aren't they sent out from the Factory already tuned?

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-T

"You can't spend what you ain't got, you can't lose what you ain't never had" ~ McKinley Morganfield

Someone told me once that some players in the past would go as far as to remove the 4 middle screws.

This is true. For instance, Stevie Ray Vaughan sometimes removed the four middle screws - and if the two outer ones were enough to stand up to his vibrato technique then they are strong enough for anyone.

In light of some comments on this thread I say again, raising the middle four screws a little is a perfectly well known adjustment. For instance, Dan Erlewine discusses it on page 107 of the Guitar Player Repair Guide (2007 edition). That doesn't mean it is essential and many of us don't bother with it (including me). But it is a recognised attempt to make the bridge return to pitch better and so improve intonation, since it reduces the number of potential friction/snagging points in the system.

And to the question "so why don't Fender issue guitars this way?" the answer is: that is exactly what the two-point trem was introduced to achieve.

Cheers - C

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Could you explain how loosening the screws reduces friction? They are still contacting the bridge plate. The smooth shaft of the screw is not tapered. In fact, if there were any wear in the shaft of the screw from the bridge plate scraping the shaft from use, loosening it would make the bridge plate contact a new, un-worn area, causing even more friction than before.

And you misstated the question. The question was about the 6-screw bridge, not the 2. I think that the question is legitimate. And you seem to agree that a 2 screw bridge has better tuning stability than the 6 (if I understand you correctly). I agree.

...if this is recommended then why aren't they setup this way from the factory?...

BTW, US Strats do come with strings, and they are tuned, but tuning can change due to the new strings stretching, the climate/temp that the guitar travels through. Sometimes you get one that is still in tune. My '62 reissue came from the factory in tune.

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---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.

Try it and see.

I'm not speaking for it or against it. Simply stating as a matter of fact that over the decades it is something many players have done, for the reason mentioned. At the start of the original post djwhitjr said he'd never heard of it and some others echoed that. I'm simply pointing out that it is not a new or mysterious adjustment.

It crops up regularly in guitar maintenance books and magazine Q&As. I'm surprised you've not come across it.

Personally I don't find it necessary, but each to his own.



Er... huh?



It is not "recommended" as such: Fender are merely suggesting that it is one of many, many user mods that people sometimes like to do. Which is true. People do all kinds of things to their guitars in the real or mistaken belief that they will improve their performance.

Cheers - C

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Thanks Ceri,

I have tried it, and you're right, whatever works for each person, cool. I gave my opinion, I'll leave it at that. I am almost always skeptical about claims for "improvements" like this, and I at least do try them for myself, including, "trem-setters", graphite nuts, locking tuners and the like. And what I've found is that none of these things can function as advertised with a 6-screw trem, as the bridge has no real, or accurate pivot point(s) like the 2-screw types. Each and every one of the claimed improvements skips the real flaw in their addressing of the issue of staying in tune with whammy use, which is the way that the 6-screw bridge is designed, it isn't very accurate, ie no pivot. Despite the fact that the plate has a sharp pivot edge in the screw holes, there is no mating surface on the screw shaft for the edge to fit into. If you truly study this type of bridge I think that you will see what I mean. Hint: the edge of the bridge plate closest to the pups travels in a rough arc, and the screw head won't flex, so the head forces the pivot edge of the plate downward, more and more as the plate is angled more, causing the plate pivot edge to slide along the screw shaft.

This might surprise you but I feel the same about Callaham's claim of better tuning stability using his 6-screw bridge plates, they don't work as well as a 2-screw as far as tuning stability. While he addresses part of the flaws of the original design, his still has no mating pivot surface in the screw shaft, so the plate still slides on the screw shaft causing tuning problems.

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---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.

My six-screw bridge is decked with five springs and blocked with a machined aluminum block. I have no problems with this setup.

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Bill

Yep, if the bridge is held fast, the tuning will last.

_________________
---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.

Yep, I think that's about it.

Personally, I only use the trem for light shimmer now and again, so I'm happy with either system and have several Strats with both six-screw and two-point bridges. But I definitely think the two-point type has a smoother action under the hand and perhaps returns to zero better. I remember the surprised pleasure I had the very first time I ever laid hands on one.

It is interesting though that such a large majority of established players stay with the six-screw type - though of course a lot of them don't actually use the vibrato or even have the trem arm installed. A notable exception is Jeff Beck. An all-time intense whammy user, and someone who favours a two-point bridge.

Not many others though. I have no useful explanation for that.

Cheers - C

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Oh. You're a poet and just didn't know it!

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Bill

Yes indeed. My favorite Strat trem setup (besides decked) is to just remove the bar and use the heel of my hand, only pushing downward for a light vibrato effect like that. Either type stays in tune very well only if only pushing the trem one way.

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---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.

But the flaw is sometimes I like to use the trem while pickin and reaching for the bar takes too long.

Hello all. I should probably start new thread for this question but since ya'll are sorta on the subject. Do they make the 2 point bridge with "vintage" string spacing? I think all of'em I have seen have modern spacing.

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"Damn Right I Got the Blues"

I seem to remember ME saying that all of the two-point were the modern spacing. Anyone else remember this?

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---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.

I agree! The two-point trems are flawless, I mean if I had a vintage strat, I'd obviously keep the original vintage bridge on it, but for all my strats that I actually play on, I use two-point bridges!