Since my first two strings broken i was playing for 2 weeks on four strings , till i got my money and I bought Ernie Ball's Super Slinku Nickel Wound 10's

As I am thinking about changing the strings by myself i heard i need to set up the guitar...

Before the need to change to strings i wanted to adjust the action a bit lower since it is sometimes pain to solo with high strings... without amp i can hear sometimes little buzz ( probably because my picking is hard )

Can somebody direct me what should i do alone to setup properly guitar ( i heard the trem should be 1/8 " but i only know cm's , i want to have it floating,with 9's it was floating by factory setup)

I don't know that much about a proper setup, but since you don't either it's probably best to pay someone to get it done. Ask if you can watch so you can learn to do it on your own. Keep in mind that the 10s are gonna pull harder on your trem and make it float higher, as well as affect your action. That's not to mention intonation which has been a pain in the $@! for me and possible neck/truss rod work, which you should definitely NOT do on your own as it risks ruining the neck if you don't know what youre doing.

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[08 MIM Standard Arctic White] > [Danelectro Fish n Chips EQ > Radial Texas Bones OD > Tonerider British Distortion > Electroharmonix Russian Big Muff Pi > Vox V847 Wah] > FM65R

If it's your first time, wanting to change your strings and have the guitar readjusted, you need to let a good guitar tech do the work. Most music stores employ someone who knows how to make the necessary adjustments and the majority of them will let you watch and show you how to string it yourself. Once everything has been set to your satisfaction, it won't be necessary to readjust it every time you change your strings, as long as you keep using the same (.010) gauge. Necks will typically only need checking and readjusting periodically, if you take proper care of the guitar.

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"It's about sound and sound alone. Looks are irrelevant. You can have the best-looking guitar on earth, but if the sound isn't there it is nothing more than a beautiful piece of trash. The sound it makes is the soul of any guitar."

Changing from 9's to 10's is not that big of a deal. You will need a tuner, a screwdriver, and a little patience. If you do not feel comfortable doing it yourself, take it to a professional. You can google how to set the intonation yourself. I think I have even seen a YouTube video as well.

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RK

2007 Fender Highway 1
2012 American Deluxe
2015 MIM Dave Murray HHH
2010 Fender Blacktop
1987 Fender Avalon Acoustic
2012 Marshall DSL 15 watt head

I don't have too much experience in setting up my guitar, but when I got my strat I changed it from .9's to .10's, all I had to do was tighten the screws on the trem claw, which worked for me. However I know all guitars can be different so as always I would listen to some of the more experienced guys here.

Hope this helps a bit,

Drew

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You can't win them all, if you did, where would you keep them?

2010 Fender MIM strat in candy apple red w/ rosewood board
2010 PRS SE Tremonti single cut, vintage cherry red
2009 Squier "tiredcaster" modded strat w/ big hairy wiring R.I.P

First of all, I would like to thank everyone for their opinion,today i took the Guide i got with my strat, i've read all of it and it seems i learned how to set up the action, i did for the 4 strings that are left, but I think i will take it to some tech ( I got the number of 1 tech from the store i bought the guitar ) just to make sure they make sure about intonation and neck...


But i wanted to ask someone...

About intonation i took my screwdriver before and i thought that was the pivot i should adjust to make action lower/higher but i found out it moves ( the saddle ) so it lengthens/shortens the string length(meaning it will increase/decrease the tuning) ... Why do that when i can simply tighten string at the pegs?

The string length may need to be adjusted to ensure that the string is the same pitch just a different octave at the 12th fret as it is open. Example open E should also be E at the 12th fret. For me I am a little more precise in my adjustments...example the B string is D at the 5th fret, E at 7th fret, and B again at the 12th fret. Yes, any movement on the bridge will detune the guitar. The little Hexagonal screws on either side of each saddle moves the saddle up and down.

this should help explain things a little better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZVRCMJLnm4

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RK

2007 Fender Highway 1
2012 American Deluxe
2015 MIM Dave Murray HHH
2010 Fender Blacktop
1987 Fender Avalon Acoustic
2012 Marshall DSL 15 watt head

I decided to risk and i've put strings. So far i went crazy when i heard sustain... Never the less , it seems the action got higher and tremolo block is a bit pulled ( although when i was changing strings i turned the screws for about 1/2 of a turn)

I don't really mind tremolo being a bit more pulled upwards ( since when i pull it back i can get higher pitches ) but im more concerned about guitar rather than my own satisfaction..Will it do any harm , or no ?

About intonation...strings aren't stretched yet enough so i get at harmony part a bit of cent sharper movement... And i guess ill lower the action since strings feel harder than 9's (obviously )

Best way to think of intonation is the guitar playing in tune with ITSELF, up an down the length of the neck. The theory in play here is that the scale length of the guitar should equal the measurement of the strings from the nut to the 12th fret, times two. Otherwords, if you measured (for example) 12 1/4 inches from the nut to the 12th fret, then the distance should be the same from the 12th fret to the bridge saddles, giving you a total scale length of 24 1/2 inches. If the measurements are correct, then the E note produced when you finger the 12th fret will be identical to the E produced when you pluck the open E string.

Unlike an acoustic guitar, where the action height and intonation are fixed, because of the saddle height and precise placement of the bridge (arrived at by complex formulas), most electric guitars have adjustments to allow you to easily set the action and intonation up, according to the vast differences in string gauges and action heights preferred by individual players. An acoustic guitar CAN be adjusted for action height and intonation, but it takes considerably more skill to do so, than with an electric guitar.

However, that said, there isn't really a whole lot of difference between .010 and .009 string sets, to begin with, as long as you use a standard set of strings and not a hybrid set. My guitar came from the factory strung with .09's and I had the store put on a new set of .010's before I brought it home. I checked the intonation and it was (and still is) dead-on and the action height was fine. I have since added two springs to the trem (which I never use) and locked it down. I had to do a little minor tweaking, but that was all. In any case, changing from an .09 set to .010 shouldn't make that much difference.

Go to YouTube and type in a search for Fender Stratocaster Set-Up and you'll find ALL KINDS of videos on how to do almost anything you need to do to your guitar.

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"It's about sound and sound alone. Looks are irrelevant. You can have the best-looking guitar on earth, but if the sound isn't there it is nothing more than a beautiful piece of trash. The sound it makes is the soul of any guitar."

Thanks a lot I learned a lot... Seems intonation won't be a problem just a matter of a patience ( and i got nerves of steel )

Tremolo is kind of worrying me , strings pulled it a bit more , it's like for 10 degrees sharper than before ( Im not sure since when my first 2 strings snapped it got flat )

Now should i open the back plate and tighten those two screws ( I already tightened both of them for about half a turn , since they are pretty tight , i got 3 springs in back )

And in what order should i set guitar?

1.Tremolo
Tune
2.Action
tune again
3. Intonation ?

With a fresh set of stings (seems that you already did that) and if you're satisfied with the neck relief, set the trem first. with the guitar tuned, turn the claw screws until the back of the bridge is about 1/8'' from the guitar body, retuning frequently as you do this, as it is the "tug of war" between the strings and the springs that keep the trem floating. (if you want a floating trem... otherwise turn the claw screws until the bridge is decked).

Next, set the action. there are many schools of thought on this one, I like a low action, so I lowered the saddles until I got a buzz, then raised them just enough to get rid of the buzz when I play normally. I checked this on every fret to make sure I had no buzz. Lowering (or raising) the action will effect tune, so retune the strings as you go.

Finally, once you like the action, you can set intonation. As was mentioned before, there are a number of good YouTube videos out there on how to intonate.

Realize that anything that effects the string tension (changing action, string gauge, etc.) will also change the height of a floating trem... you may have to repeat all of these steps several times to get everything set just the way you want it.

I got a problem...

Since i was trying out action , ive set it low a bit ...and it didn't buzz at all..but i got strong and agressive fingers so when i tried bending on B string at 15th fret a bit further ( about 1 step... or 1 and 1/2 ) The sound would just cut out itself... One of my friends said i need to adjust truss rod... when i raised the action back , i could bend the b string up to the D and wouldn't loose the sound

Should i mess around with pick up height or truss rod ? :\

Sounds like you answered your own question. If raising the action brings back the sound when you do bends, set the action to the minimum height required to successfully bend without fretting out. Part of the issue may also be with the radius of the fret board, a smaller radius will cause you to fret out (strings hit the frets and stop sounding) and you may need a higher action to compensate. Truss rod adjustment will not help this appreciably, and I'd advise against adjusting the truss rod (FWIW)

good luck.

Neither won't adjusting pickup height affect this ?

Raising or lowering the pickup height will cause two things to happen... volume changes (moving the pup toward the strings will raise volume, away lowers it) and sustain changes - the closer the pickup is to the strings, the more the magnets in the pickups attract the metal strings. This causes a magnetic dampening effect - reducing the string vibration, thus you lose sustain. Moving the pickups will not effect a complete volume loss during bends. I would examine where on the neck this volume loss is happening. Do your bends slowly and to their fullest extent, and see if you lose the sound because the string is hitting other frets. If you do this slowly enough, you should hear fret buzz just before you lose sound altogether.

If after you've done this, "fretting out" is the cause, then try raising the action, since you cannot change the neck radius without getting a new neck.