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Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 4:16 pm
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ics1974 wrote:
So I first set my truss rod to have the recommended .010" gap then tried setting the action for the 6th string.
I set it to 1.6mm and I get allot of buzz and rattle. I have to move it up to 2mm to get rid of the buzz. What am I doing wrong?


You may need to get the frets "dressed". There may exist slight deviations in the elevation of various frets relative to the fingerboard; over the years, depending on a number of factors, like how much the instrument has been played and the players touch may contribute to your problem.


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Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 4:21 pm
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Strataholic wrote:
ics1974 wrote:
So I first set my truss rod to have the recommended .010" gap then tried setting the action for the 6th string.
I set it to 1.6mm and I get allot of buzz and rattle. I have to move it up to 2mm to get rid of the buzz. What am I doing wrong?


You may need to get the frets "dressed". There may exist slight deviations in the elevation of various frets relative to the fingerboard; over the years, depending on a number of factors, like how much the instrument has been played and the players touch may contribute to your problem.


This guitar is only 2 months old. I am now wondering if Eddie is right about the capo because 1.6mm causes allot of buzz and I didn't use a capo.


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Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:36 pm
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ics1974 wrote:
Strataholic wrote:
ics1974 wrote:
So I first set my truss rod to have the recommended .010" gap then tried setting the action for the 6th string.
I set it to 1.6mm and I get allot of buzz and rattle. I have to move it up to 2mm to get rid of the buzz. What am I doing wrong?


You may need to get the frets "dressed". There may exist slight deviations in the elevation of various frets relative to the fingerboard; over the years, depending on a number of factors, like how much the instrument has been played and the players touch may contribute to your problem.


This guitar is only 2 months old. I am now wondering if Eddie is right about the capo because 1.6mm causes allot of buzz and I didn't use a capo.


Right - the better techs can improve on the factory work like milling the neck and/or dressing the frets. I've read where players have taken a new strat and sent it straight to the tech for paint (to match their favorite jacket) and all the other tweaks they like! Also see John Warden.


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Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:42 pm
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I never heard of using a capo while setting the action.

I never used a capo while setting the action.

I probably will never use a capo while setting the action.

Have fun out there.

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Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:44 pm
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orvilleowner wrote:
I never heard of using a capo while setting the action.

I never used a capo while setting the action.

I probably will never use a capo while setting the action.

Have fun out there.


Care to share your technique for setting neck relief :?:


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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:01 am
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I am wondering if I need to add less releif to the neck to get my action lower. I shot for the .010" releif but it maybe slightly more. If I add less releif do you think it will help get rid of the buzz? The buzz only happens past the 12th fret only when fretted.


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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 6:40 am
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Well I was right. I worked on getting my relief as close to .010" as possible and this helped allot. I can't believe how much I was off when I initially set it.
I now can get my treble strings to 1.6mm without buzz but my base strings need to be slightly higher 1.8mm.
Measurements are taken without the capo on.

I still would like to know if the capo is required for the Fender specs though


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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:51 am
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Strataholic wrote:
Care to share your technique for setting neck relief :?:


Oh, you mean adjusting the truss rod? Actually, I use two fingers and just sight the relief.

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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:48 am
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Good to hear. Yeah too much relief can cause buzz too. Most people think if it buzzes, you need more.
but if you think about it, when you add too much your high frets end up being closer to your strings than where your low point in the curve is (usually around the 8th or 9th fret) with low action.

I bet the fender specs don't use a capo since they don't mention it.

-Eddie


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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:13 am
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Can someone tell me if I am reading this wrong? The following is from Fender on their set up instructions.

First, check your tuning. Affix a capo at the first fret and depress the sixth string at the last fret. With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret—see the spec chart below for the proper gap.

It says to put the capo on the first fret. Two people in this dicussion say they do not use the capo on the first fret. :?:


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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:17 am
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dkals wrote:
Can someone tell me if I am reading this wrong? The following is from Fender on their set up instructions.

First, check your tuning. Affix a capo at the first fret and depress the sixth string at the last fret. With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret—see the spec chart below for the proper gap.

It says to put the capo on the first fret. Two people in this dicussion say they do not use the capo on the first fret. :?:


Everyone uses a capo when checking neck releif as above. We questioned leaving the capo on for checking string height (Action).


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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:19 am
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Thats for checking the relief (truss rod adjustment). If your using your string as a straight edge, then you have to use a capo or user your finger (but then you have no extra hand to do an accurate measurement).

The debate is over checking the action.

-Eddie


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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:25 am
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So for the action you take the capo off and start with new measurements, correct?


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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:29 am
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dkals wrote:
So for the action you take the capo off and start with new measurements, correct?


You check for relief with capo on and fix using the truss rod.
You then take the capo off to measure the string height. Eddie said his book says to leave the capo on to measure the Action but the Fender specs dosn't say anything about leaving the capo on or off.
I saw another reference on the net were it says to leave the capo on for action. I will see if I can find it.


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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:31 am
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Well thats the debate :)
Also the action is typically measured at the 17th fret and without holding down the string at the top fret. Your really measuring something different than when your setting the releif, but it's all interconnected because when you adjust your truss rod the string height will change.

I learned to use the capo to take the action measurements, but I don't know how typical it is. I guess the rule of thumb would be to not capo unless specified in whatever reference your using.


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