There aren't any sticky threads so if all of this has been posted kindly send me the link please and thanks you.

I just bought a new mim standard strat with the vintage 6 screw tremelo.
It has three springs. I got the rear of the bridge to be about an 1/8 inch gap like fender support pages say. I was unclear if the 1/8 inch was from the top of metal to body of guitar or the actual gap but the page said gap so that's what I did. I also set the 6 screws to 1/16 above the pickguard and the two outside ones flush with the pickguard, by that I mean the flat part of the screw head, not the rounded top. So my problem was all of my strings would sharpen if I used the trem arm all of the strings did this eventually but the b string is the worst, it goes out of tune no matter what, I've put graphite in the nuts stretched the shi dip out of it, the only thing I need to get is a roller tree. So anyhow, I got the strings to stay in tune with the tremelo except for the b string, when all the rest were good the b string went flat, so I turned that side claw screw about 1/8 of a turn tighter and the b string than goes sharp a little bit back and flat, it's as if there is no inbetween. I'm using gauge nine strings.

Also the tuning machines seem like junk, it's as if they have dead spots, if I move it slowly pitch doesn't change until about 3/4 of a turn and if I move it fast the pitch changes in about 1/4-1/8 turn my question than is what is a good replacement tuner? I had Grovers on my SG and they worked well but is there something better for a strat?

Thirdly Why in the heck did they put the knobs and switch right where everything is happening? Does anyone have the dimensions of the cut out section in the body or a picture with sizes? I'm wanting to drill all the knobs and selectors as far away from the strings and as close to the back that I can.
Thanks

Do a search on this forum or directly on You Tube for the Carl Verheyen Strat set up video. If shows how to angle the trem claw to get things to stay in tune.

I believe the tuners on the MIM are made by Ping. You can easily upgrade to the Fender Schaller locking tuners as used on the American Deluxe and other models. They may also help your tuning problems.

As far as the control locations go, that's where Leo put them and they seem to work for 99.9% of the players out there. There is very little room in the cavity so unless you route out the cavity further (not much wood left to cut out) the controls stay where they are.

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Bill

I like to use all 6 screws because that takes the stress off 2. After a few months I readjust the screws to assure they are seated properly. After a few years I replace the screws with new Steel Screws because the old ones have dents or are bent from a couple of years wear. It is just the nature of using this type of trem. No problem as the screws are available and cheap.

Ok, Changed to Gauge ten strings and used a block to adjust the trem block. Screwed the claws in a fair amount, the metal is a little closer than an 1/8 to the body, I used a ruler as the block between the body and the trem block that was a little bigger than an 1/8 wide. I tuned the guitar to standard, and screwed the claws in until the ruler just fell out, now the guitar doesn't bug out of tune when I whammy and I only have to tune as much as I did on my SG(after the strings were well worked in).

I guess I'm the .1 percent that strums the way I do, I'm not playing campfire songs so I don't just feather the strings and the control is just in the way.

If anyone has moved the 5 way switch or tried let me know, I don't want to commit to cutting a slot in the pickguard to have it not work, I think it will and just be tight to the body and bottom tone pot but like I said I'm not one-hundred percent, If I could get the dimensions of the cut out portion of the body I could def. Figure it out.
P.S. It could be my problem that I'm coming from an SG where all of the controls are way out of the way... even the Les Paul toggle switch bugs me...

Remove the pickguard and measure it.

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Bill