I agree.

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Being able to play and enjoy music is a gift that's often taken for granted.

Don't leave home without it!

I use that same finish on custom gunstocks I make. Works well and unlike poly finishes on the stocks, it does build patina over time (I saw one last week that I build for a guy 10 years ago and it's held up well and has a nice aged look to it.).

Never thought about using it on a guitar, but don't see why it wouldn't work.

Jeff

Well poly will sound a little different, not better or worse. If poly is so great, why doesn't the custom shop use it much? Any poly guitar I've picked up in my limited experience always felt heavy. I made a partscaster and used reranch nitro, just like the feel and wear, not so much worried about tone.

Would I buy a strat with poly? It would have to really speak to me...

How much heavier? We weigh finishes round here?
BTW the Custom Shop does use Urethane quite a bit. It's underneath the Cellulose on all their guitars for one thing. It's on most of the Custom Classic, Custom Deluxe and Classic Player guitars. As and when they come around. (yes the CustomShop Classic Player, not the Mexican one. There are two types).

Welcome to the Forums Little Dippers. Glad to have you here.

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No no and no

Yeah but that cinder block was clearly finished in nitro

Nitro does not make a guitar sound better, but it makes it look so much cooler.

Nothing beats natural wear

I'm not gonna read all this of bullsh-t, because I don't have to. The difference between a plastic coat and lacquer is night and day! When bowling lanes switched from lacquer to urethane, it ruined many pro careers. The style of turn and lift did not match the plastic finish. BTW, bowling lanes used to be wood-hardwood front, pine middle, and maple back. They were first finished with shellac(early 20th cen) then switched to lacquer. The only reason they went to plastic is cost-didn't have to refinish as often. Same with any wood finish now days-cheap is better! I bought a 57 ARI Strat primarily for the lacquer finish and neck shape. There's no mofo plastic on it anywhere, finish wise! I wore the finish off the first three frets 2 months after I got it.

And wood does "breath", if not coated in plastic! My Strat varies day to day based on humidity, temp and of course, me. It lives!!!!!!!!!

If your not going to read and will get so obviously angry, why did you bother to post?

Even Masterbuilders admit to using urethane under cellulose (Mark Kendrick on FDP). Fender have always done it, it has nothing at all to do with bowling alleys. I dunno why you even bought that up. Do bowling alleys breathe? I know they suck, but I've never seen one breathe. Isn't bowling the sport for people that can't play cricket? Like pool is the game for people that can't play snooker?

Why if your guitar breathes hasn't it spouted leaves? Do you water it at all? What about woodworm?

Then again, your not going to read this.

BTW I'm joking, but you started it.

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No no and no

I think that this has to do with bowling alleys, in the same way that a hand made sword has to do with bridge blocks.

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---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.

Voodoo B if you were in the business of fixing amps you would know handwired is better. Point to point is easier to fix and sadly most companies make poorly built PC boards to save on the cost. Cheap single sided no silk mask PC boards.

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.

Thomas Jefferson

Thanks for the explaination,I've used pure tung-oil on gunstocks and it seems to never dry and is stcky as all get out....I've used Minwax and it's a good product.
I was kidding about a test on tung vs. boiled linseed oil...let's don't even go there. someone will want to try it.

My amp is handwired.

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Tune Low, Play Hard & Floor it!

I have all kinds of finishes on my guitars; Polyurethane, catylized poly, nitrocellulose over poly sealer AND nitrocellulose over lacquer sealer and to my hands and ear it is pure feel. The lacquer is much softer and feels a little more organic and it polishes up nice under your arm or wherever else you rub up against it. You feel like you are holding a real piece of wood. Fine furnature is still covered with lacquer in many cases. Urethane finishes feel more plastic to me and are way thicker, like you are not holding a piece of wood almost. Poly is WAY more durable.. A tiny bump to my all lacquer guitar leaves a mark or dent that wouldn't even touch my poly guitars all things being equal. That said, as far as tone is concerned, I notice no difference. All the guitars with the finishes noted above sound fantastic and I love em all!

And as far as the cement block is concerned, everybody knows brick is a way better tone block!

I have 3 nitro guitars 2 gibsons and a highway1 strat, and 4 poly guitars 2 fenders and 2 musicmans.
I love the musicmans waxed neck the most, and the feel of the gibson necks the least. The musicmans have one flaw and that is like 2 times a year I need to refinish the neck with gunstock oil and wax. If I dont do this they react more to humidity changes and they get dingy. Now my American std strats poly neck feels great and I dont have to do anything.

Now My highway1 looks cool and used as the nitro has chipped off but under that is a thick sealer . My american std is a sexy ash sienna sunburst, and both music mans have exceptional quilt and flame maple tops. I want them to stay looking that way for a long time.

just my 2cents

Nitro is cooler to say. Therefore it sounds better.

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I traded my car in for a microphone.