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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 1:34 pm
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Aspiring Musician
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Location: Louisiana, USA
Nude, or even better as we say it in the rural South of the US Nekid! (pronounced neckidd) which is redneck for "buck naked with bad intentions." or something such as that.

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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:00 am
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G'day, I won't talk about stripping, nudity or nekkidness today. I got this from a Mexican standard.

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I'll be swapping the Guacamole green PG for a Tortoiseshell. I have one small technical question ( the first of many I'm sure ).
I'm used to seeing the earth wire soldered to the tremolo spring claw plate, but this setup has a metal ring on the wire, which I assume goes on the screw. Is this acceptable or is it better to solder? Since I have to solder the jack plug anyway it's no bother. I'm not ready to do it yet, just wondering. :? :?

OK one more nude shot. :D

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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:22 am
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Aspiring Musician
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Location: Kentucky
Box,
I asked a similar question on another forum and this is what I was told.

One ground (earth) and a hot going to the output jack.
One ground going to trem
One ground (with the metal ring / stud) would go to the body.

So, there should be one white and 3 black wires.

Now, the one going to the body, so I was told, is optional. On some strats, Fender aparently paints shileding paint inside the body cavity and one scrapes a little color off to expose the silver shileding paint and connects the body ground to that.

Obviously yours does not have that (unless you're adding it in).

It was a moot point on the Mexi strat I rewired as I used copper foil tape and shielded all the body cavities and my pickguard was already fully lined. I ran the wire with the stud (body ground) to the copper sielding.

I can't say it made a big difference. In fact, I can't say it made any difference at all.

The Mexi strat is my experimental (Strato-Modster) so whatever configuration it is today, may be different this time next month. (I love to play around with stuff like this and I picked the guitar up way cheap and any money I spend on it is well worth the entertainment value :-) )

Hope the wiring description worked.

Jeff


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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:17 am
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Thanks Jeff, yes I have 4 wires, 1 wh, 3 bl- one with loop. So the one with the loop grounded to the body (maybe), One wh, one bl to the jack. One bl to the trem plate ,cool.
I'm more artist than Technician. The last time I did any soldering was on a lead-light window :lol:


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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:25 am
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Box,
Glad to help.

One thing about soldering - just remember, there is a right end and a wrong of the soldering iron you should grab. Don't ask how I know this little tid bit of information. :D


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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:38 pm
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I think Boxbang is going to cover up the naughty bits soon! Take a good last look, guys! ;-)

-Nutter


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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 7:52 am
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G'day, Nothing is screwed on yet, but you get the idea. :)
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I will do a bit more work on the front this weekend. ...Mark.
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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:08 am
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thought we were doing a step-by-step on the french polishing thing?

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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:28 am
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Will do mate. It was 2 steps forward and 1 step back there for a while. I just have to sort it out in my own head. There's been plenty of interest in the finish, so I will reveal all :)
It's no great secret really ,just takes dedication. I don't want to be misunderstood (again) :)

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Last edited by boxbang on Fri Feb 04, 2011 11:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 9:51 am
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Looks very nice.

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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 12:54 am
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G'day, My Fender tortoiseshell pickguard is on it's way and the American vintage tremolo seems to be lost in the mail, so I will continue to work on the body. The result is already beyond my expectations, but I believe I can improve it.
Now would be a good time to talk about the finish. Lots of photos of me rubbing a guitar body would not be very exciting, but I will explain the steps, and give you my impressions along the way. I'll try to make it interesting.

Traditional French polishing involves the application of Shellac in very thin layers, patiently built up in figure 8 and tight circular motions. This process takes time, as does my method.

This is a reproduction 17th century, Louis VIV table............. ( 1660 Re-issue :lol: :lol: :lol: )
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That's the sort of shine I'm aiming for, but as pointed out previously, this kind of finish is easily damaged. King Louis often found that greasy,hot pizza boxes and beer cans used without coasters would damage the surface. I substitute the Shellac for Polyurethane to make it more durable.

Sanding- This is the very important first stage. You will be rewarded later for extra attention paid during this step. Traditionally, ground pummice stone was applied for hours. These days we have sandpaper and it takes quite some time. I use 600,800 and 1000 grit at this stage. I don't need to tell you how to use sandpaper, but my advice is - when you think it's time to move on to a finer grade, don't. Just keep going for an hour. It's worth it. You won't wear away the wood. By the time you're up to the 1000 grit, you will see a really nice satin sheen starting to appear.

"Shellacking"- I used household Polyurethane Estapol, thinned with Turpentine applied with a wad of non-fuzzy cloth, in a tight circular motion. This helps to penetrate deeply into the wood. It dries fairly quickly as you work (It's summer down here :D ). I did this 3-4 times, sanding in between with 1000 grit.
I then began to use an aerosol urethane. Mine was satin because it seems to contain more solids and helps with the filling in. A few fine applications of this with sanding between will further improve the finish. I rarely wait the recommended time to sand between coats, and I believe this actually helps to penetrate the surface. The 1000 grit pushes the "soft" lacquer into the microscopic fissures and imperfections and works like shellac would. It does clog the sandpaper a bit but it is manageable. You will know straight away if the lacquer is still too wet, just leave it a bit longer. One more coat and let it dry and cure properly. By now you will have a nice "shellacked surface, ready to start polishing and without a massive build-up of lacquer.

Polishing- From here I use 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit paper in the same tight circular motion. As with the other steps, I use the paper on a cork block for the flat areas as well as wrapped around a wad of cloth, or just on the fingertips. It's an instinctive process and you can gauge your progress by holding the job up to the light to see the reflection. The sandpaper can be lubricated with a little car polish, but you need a certain amount of resistance, you will get a sort of squeaky click as you polish.
When you're happy with the shine finish with car polish on a cloth. I guess it could be buffed at this stage, although I have not yet.

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At times I overpolished the finish in places and went to raw wood. This is annoying but not disasterous. More Poly can be applied to a small area and as with French polish the area can be blended in perfectly.

I have called this process "French polishing" but maybe it is just a ''thin Poly finish"
I don't want to get into a debate with any tradesmen. I work with various materials as a hobby. This is my first guitar build. If you think it's time consuming, so is watching TV.
Thanks again for your ongoing interest.


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.....Mark.


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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 12:47 am
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G'day, Well the tremolo arrived today from the US, and I must say I'm greatly impressed. It's a gold Vintage RI ( US made ). It was the only one I could find to fit the hole pattern on this body.

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Does anyone know if the original tremolo on the Deluxe Players Strat has this massive block? It should be great :D

Also, I have this gold trem cover which I may use. It seems to fit perfectly, but how does it attach? Am I missing something?

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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 12:52 am
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it should just snap in place. try it and see.

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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 12:54 am
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Rock Star
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remember, palm muting will be impossible with that plate on.

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Post subject: Re: Bare body MIM Build (contains nudity)
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:02 am
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Hmmm, No, it doesn't seem to snap on. I guess it's just the wrong part although it seems to fit the trem shape and size perfectly, very strange. As far as palm muting goes, yeah maybe, I'd like to give it go though. I really like the look, all gold 'n' all.
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