I think my strings are too low at the nut and was thinking of making or getting a new one. From what I read, the base of the nut slot can be flat or curved. Since the radius is 12", very different form the rest of the Strats, the difference is if I have to make my own or can use one that has a flat bottom. Does anyone know if the slot bottom is flat or curved? If flat, I assume you just cut the nut slots to equal the 12" curve and cut down the height via the bottom and you are close to done with that part. Yes /no?

If the base of the slot is radius'd then it matches the fretboard radius.

The easiest way is to take the thing out and have a look at the existing nut.

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No no and no

Thanks. I am just a bit scared of the entire process so was hoping I could find it out (flat or curved bottom) first, then have the parts ready to do the work all at once.

you can shim the nut (if it´s not to worn) using a piece of solid maple, so the nut can be filed and cut like a new one.
That way you can try yourself without worrying too much about it.
If all fails you can buy a new one and let a tech do it.

Cheers,
Robin

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http://www.youtube.com/robinstrower
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If you are that scared, you should just have it done professionally.

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Bill

Good idea. Thanks. Of course, I was told the low nut slots are no big deal as long as open strings don't buzz (and they don't though they are set high), but I was also told it is ready for a new nut (or to be shimmed) any time I am ready to do it before the end of this year. This started as I investigated string buzzing, mostly on the A and D strings, when fretted, despite having higher then suggested strings, 6/64ths instead of 4/64ths. One thing lead to the next and the nut was suggested as the culprit, though I can't see it as such.

Listen up mate, cos nut's aint hard but are scary when you've never done one.

You need to be confident when you work on a nut. If you've never cut a nut before, you need that perfect, original nut to come out of the slot in as good a shape as possible.
Atleast that way, if you muck up cutting the new nut, you can just put the original one back in. Infact if you feel like sacrificing a set of feeler gauges you can shim the slot, then put the original nut back in. Effectively raising the bottom of the string slots up off the fret tops.
Not a permanent fix but will have a guitar gig worthy in a hour.

These pictures are taken from Steve Robinson's excellent site.
http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/refret.html

First thing to do is to cut the lacquer on a maple board. Fender fret the guitar, fit the nut, then lacquer over the top of all of it. On a rosewood guitar, you are simply creating a clean break and stopping any overspilt glue (though Fender don't use glue on their maple boards, hence the lacquer) from sticking and helping make a clean break.





Now heres the confidence bit.
You need to be firm but not forcefull with these mallet blows. All your looking to do is crack the lacquer/glue.






The nut should come out on that last tap, or visibly move. Remember a well cut nut needs no glue. Fender use barely any, I can't think of any time I've seen glue in a nutslot cutout or on a nut. So don't go whacking hell out the nut with a clawhammer. Gentle but firm taps.

So you're not completely bereft of confidence, heres some of my nut work. Though I've recently deleted a lot of pictures. These are the only ones I can find that are relevant.






A bit different as I was designing a shelf nut to sort out low fret intonation problems.

Snap, just saw Robin's post, made whilst I was writing

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No no and no

If you get your original nut out in one piece, then all you have to do is copy it. That way you'll get the string spacing right too.
Though I do recommend leaving the nut a little wide to ensure that you sand it down to fit that slot as tightly as possible.

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No no and no

Thank you all. I think I have the method down to understanding, just some sweaty palm work to do and hopefully it will be another skill learned.

Hi tc4all: couple of things to add to what has already been said.

First, if there is buzzing on fretted notes it ain't the nut. You've probably worked that out by now, but just to be clear, once you fret a string you've taken the nut out of the system. The nut can only be the culprit if the buzzing is on open strings.

And a quick way to assess whether the slots in the nut are cut to the right depth. Fret a string at the first fret and then study the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the third fret. Then fret the same string at the third fret and study the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the first fret. If those gaps are pretty much the same then the slots are cut to the right depth. If the second gap is smaller than the first one (or there is no gap at all on the second test) then the slots are too deep. If the second gap is much bigger than the first one then the slots are not deep enough.

Repeat for all six strings in turn. A rough and ready test, but quite good enough for assessment purposes.

Second thing. If you buy a very affordable pre-slotted GraphTech TUSQ nut it comes with a little tab on the bottom. If your nut slot is a flat one you leave that tab in place. If the slot is radiused then you trim the tab off and the bottom of the nut is then curved to fit the slot. Simple.

Those TUSQ nuts are radiused to fit 9.5" slots, but that will be no problem if yours is 12". Due to the geometry of the situation.

Cheers - C

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Thanks. I have no gap at all between the string and first fret when fretting the 3rd so the slots are probably low if I have that right. That should have nothing to do with the buzzing, so I probably have 2 problems and need to care for one then the other. Part of the buzzing I know is weakness in my left hand (once broken, arthritis, trigger finger), but I have done some tests and measurements and still can't account for it all. So, the nut first then on to the buzzing.

By the way, people have been real helpful here and I appreciate it. Nobody has been a jerk which I have encountered in audio forums (especially), technical forums, and You Tube. I am only a year into playing and an older guy so there are kids with way more knowledge then I have or probably will ever have, but almost every single one I have dealt with here or in person, has been supportive, open to helping, and overall, pretty great. Thanks to one and all.

Yep, that sounds like it banged to rights.



It's an excellent plan! Good luck.

Now this:

Gosh. How nice!

I think everyone here would reply; thank you kindly too!

Cheers to you - C

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Here to help TC.

Whether you're young, old, Steve Vai or me, whats important is that you share a passion for making a noise. Thats all most of us here care about.

Anyways, the tusq nuts are great. It will cost about £40/$50 to have one fitted. Is that not a better option if you're unsure of doing the job yourself?

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No no and no

Makes perfect sense, but being always up for learning something ... I also thought (now don't think I am too crazy) maybe if that cost relatively too much (they are quoting $90 here to do it), I should entertain having a new raw wood neck made by Warmoth. Bad left hand makes me think a thinner neck would be better for me. Of course, at that point you have to consider being better off finding a new guitar and selling the EJ and, yata, yata, yata. Let's put it this way, I don't know enough to get out of my own way (which is fine with me), already know enough to be dangerous, and really have a passion for this. I can now, easily see how kids get totally caught up in it. (My cousin's son is a naturally talented bass player and now has 7 guitars at 18 while studying robotics in college.) I just get pure enjoyment out of mastering a lesson, lick, picking out a song, playing with a slide, or nailing the opening to "While My Guitar Gently Weeps."
Agan thanks for the help and advice.

No ,not While My Guitar Gently Sleeps but Here Comes the Sun. It helps to know what you are playing, I think.