A myth-busters Guitar site? That sounds interesting! About the black and sliver springs. It was always obvious that the silver springs were made from a bit heavier wire. So I just ran out to my guitar work room and took out 9 springs. To my amazement, I thought I only had black and silver, but I found black, silver and some that were kind of a grayer color (like nickle coated) and some that were like galvanized looking and very oxidized. They all were very close to the same wire size (silver looks a tad bigger) but what was interesting, after perfectly lining up the loop-hole end, was they were all different lengths! I am convinced that the silver spring is a higher tensile strength, but need someone to do a weight/pull test! Now almost all of these are from USA Strats. One type might be from a MIJ 62 reissue, but then over the years I would get a used (USA) Strat and there could be a mix and match of springs in the back, so who knows where they came from!

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Xhefri's Guitars
www.xhefriguitars.com

[/quote]
I love it!! So much for standardization. This would be an interesting matter to pursue. Reminds me of the Hooke's Law of Springs unit in College Physics. I would pass this info on to ME once we've done the basic investigation. They may actually be using springs of different length for a specific type of mass block: vintage, MIM, modern MIA, and so on.

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"Another day in paradise!"

Ceri..

A question for you. Have you ever used Minwax Polycrylic on a neck to refinish. I've used it many times for doors, windows, trimcasings but I'm wondering how it would stand up to abuse from sweat and what not on a guitar neck .
Just completed painting the body, 5 coats black lacquer under 6 coats of clear lacquer. I'm not thrilled with the feel of lacquer on a neck versus polycrylic hence the switch.
Pleasant part of polycrylic is it's water-based.
This is the plan for this Stratopartster.

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"C'est parti mon Kiki "

Hi 53magnatone: amazing coincidence you should ask me that because about a week ago I was discussing Minwax stains with another Forum user on FaceBook. I'd never heard of their products before but the waterbased stains looked as good as anyone else's products, as far as I could see.

I don't know their Polycrylic either, but I have used another manufacturer's waterbased acrylic lacquer - on the Burnt Strat body, for example. It works absolutely fine for me so I'd have no reason not to recommend it to others. The waterbased aspect makes it especially user friendly, for example for clean-up, if you are using your own spray gun. Such a relief compared to solvent based finishes! And of course you can use any waterbased product for tinting as well, which makes things very simple.

And we have to remember that a huge proportion of modern car finishes are now acrylic, and those get an awful lot of testing for permanence, color-fastness and such. So since electric guitars have always used automotive finishes in the past that's probably a good omen!

However. For necks I have always used polyurethane lacquer. Companies such as Fender mostly use urethane on necks regardless whether the bodies are finished with polyester, polyurethane or nitrocellulose. Of course, nitro is to be found on the necks of US built re-issues and many Custom Shop models, but that is a mixture of vintage correctness and customer superstition. The builder's preference for urethane on necks is clear from its overwhelming use in most parts of the catalog.

To me it has the best combination of hardness, flexibility, durability and feel under the hands. You can buff it to exactly the level of satin or gloss that you require and it has good color-fastness properties. It dries much faster than nitro and you can apply more coats in a working day.

You can buy it in tins to use with a spray gun (or brush) but I don't bother: I just buy it in aerosols. So quick and easy. Plasti-Kote have a good polyurethane aerosol (though you must be careful not to confuse it with one of their many other sometimes very similar looking products). Alternatively, where I live you can buy urethane from local manufacturers in a range of matte, satin or gloss choices and clear, light or heavy tint options. I'm sure the same sort of options will be available where you are too.

So my personal recommendation for necks would always be polyurethane. But I'm sure waterbased acrylic will be good too, and I'd be extremely interested to hear more about your experience with that.

Another long, detailed post! Any help?

Cheers - C

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My vote for phrase of the year, goes to....

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No no and no

Thank You...!!

Yes I am planning on a thread of this build start to finish with pics. I just did not want to start a thread and have everyone ask " Hey.. What's the hold up ".
In addition since it had been quite a few years since I rebuilt and refinished a guitar I had a few bugs to get assessed and resolved.
So far So Good except for the body paint which was a challenge and had a couple of touch and Go moments. but all resolved and awaiting curing...Yawnnn !!

I was just in the basement workshop assembling my RYOBI drill-press, for a little over $100 it is perfect for small projects like guitar rebuild. Next is the Bandsaw but it can stay boxed up until next month. ( I'm expecting someone to say that RYOBi's are not of great durability but I will not be using them for commercial purposes in my work. As for Home Hobby style, they are perfectly sized and should last a long time if well cared for )...

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"C'est parti mon Kiki "

Next time Ceri visits the states perhaps we can have you join us for a pint or two!
Doc

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"Another day in paradise!"

Ok.. I cannot keep a secret, posting a couple of pics
The Family before the new additions rehab



Before the dress rehearsal


Being tailored



Part of the final layout



It's a funny plywood neck, sort of a fretless,

Next will be.....

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"C'est parti mon Kiki "

Guinness... or Leffe...

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"C'est parti mon Kiki "

Love black! You shootimg this with spray can paint????

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Xhefri's Guitars
www.xhefriguitars.com

To be a real guiness guitar it's gotta be black with white top!

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No no and no

Is the white the binding????

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Xhefri's Guitars
www.xhefriguitars.com

Yes I am... !!! I'm using Krylon Lacquer, but I do use a small trick. Since it is not possible to thin out an aerosol can's contents I warm up the cans by inserting them halfway into a pot of hot water.( water is only as hot as you can comfortably insert your fingers and leave them in for a few seconds.
This has the effect of allowing the paint and propellant to mix adequately. Next is just to spray.
One other important part is that I have a spray booth set up with a vacuum turned on while spraying.
This takes care of the overspray not falling back on the body since the overspray will be somewhat dry by the time it floats down to the body.
Also as I spray I make sure I have a wet spray line and I spray at a 45 degree to the surface I'm spraying.

I spent quite a bit of time in an autobody shop back in High School. That and having sprayed many 1/18th scale models back in my day.

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"C'est parti mon Kiki "

Oh Yeah... It's also 5 coats of black topped with 5 to 6 coats of clear. Has not been rubbed and buffed yet since it has to cure for a couple or more weeks.
Now that is the part that is difficult, waiting until " All In Good Time "

Fortunately I have 3 other builds in various early stages including that small funny looking guitar Niki.. asked me about a while back.

Speaking of that Nikki... Have you seen the DVD John Mayall's 70th Anniversary ?
John is playing a similar bodied guitar but with what looks like a Fender neck..

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"C'est parti mon Kiki "

Cheers (really, cheers) - C

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