I'm just wondering whether it's possible to convert an American Series/Standard Strat to accept a 6-screw vintage bridge rather than the 2-point modern style one that comes on the guitar?

I can find plenty online about doing the opposite, but nothing on "retro-fitting" the vintage style bridge...

Can anyone help?

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How did it sound to you?

Callaham have those saddles; But not sure the sound or sustain would be better,


http://www.callahamguitars.com/up_amstd.htm

Thanks, but I'm meaning the entire bridge assembly, not just the saddles.

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How did it sound to you?

It all depends on how proffesionaly you want to do the job.
In short, it's exactly the same process to position the trem. Take the old trem out, place the new trem. Line it up, mark the screw centers.
You can either draw center lines and work to 90degree's from them. Or you can leave the scratchplate on and square up to that, allowing for a mil or so gap between the scratchplate and the leading edge of the tremplate. Making sure you have adequate clearance between the tremblock and cavity wall. For good trem travel.

The you can either choose to use the 4 center screws only and leave the 2point trem's ferrules in place. Or you can remove the ferrules, dowel fill the holes and paint over.

The only reason my 2point trem guitars haven't got vintage trems on is because I can't stand the idea of trying to match and blend the paint in.

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No no and no

Ironically I actually quite like the idea of leaving the dowels unpainted...why hide them!!

Opens up my options anyway...thanks.

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How did it sound to you?

+1 nikininja

Callaham sells a conversion kit where you use the existing 2-point stud holes and drill the middle four. http://www.callahamguitars.com/up_amst.htm


Are you sure you really want to do this? Consider when you put a vintage style bridge on an American Std the outside E strings are dangerously close to falling off the edge of the fretbaord (wider bridge + countoured fingerboard edges = ). See the warning that Callaham states in the link I posted above.

What don't you like about the 2-point? A correctly set up 6 screw bridge only really pivots on the outside 2 screws just like a modern 2 point. The middle 4 screws are raised slightly higher to avoid less friction on the bridge to keep it in tune after doing whammy bar wiggles.

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Obligatory gear list: Fender, Rickenbacker, Gibson, Gretsch, Vox, Martin, and more Fender.

I've done this on my US Strat because it was the only way I could find to have the wider 2 7/32" string spacing.

In the pic you can see that I left the ferrules in place and the screws are sitting in them loosely simply for looks, (the string keeps them in place). I suppose a small dab of elmers glue would keep them from rattling or falling out, but it hasn't been an issue. I have the tremelo blocked down, so I can't comment on how that is affected. I had read that 6 screw bridges are often tightened down with just the outside two screws, so I figured that this arrangement is no less secured to the body.

Look closely and you'll see the one thing you'll need to avoid and that is intonation issues. The two treble string bridge saddles are firmly abutting the bridge screws, so if I had it to do over, I'd have installed the bridge slightly closer to the nut. Perhaps if I let the bridge float, I'd be able to adjust the E intonation better but it's close enough.

If you do it, set the new bridge in place to use as your template to mark the screw holes and just nudge it a 1/16th or so toward the nut. Be sure to use an awl to dent where you're going to start drilling and then use a much smaller drill to make a starter hole before your final one. Be sure to use some tape around your drill as a depth gauge.

As far as sound, I can't tell the difference, but my hearing's not that great and my ears aren't that educated yet on the finer points of Strat tone.

I'm perfectly happy with it and the GF bridge I installed. The appearance of the ferrules don't bother me a bit and I can't imagine going thru the trouble of removing them. Yes the E strings can slip off the side of the neck but that's simply technique that you can adjust for. The wider spacing of the strings has been worth it for me as I rarely use a pick.

Good luck with it!

Yeah but 2 point trems just don't look right.

I'd question Callahams statement about fret ends. I don't have one here to check, but my deluxe's fret ends look to be as near the perfect 30/60 degree angle as I've seen. Check it against my other guitars and it's the same. I can't see em being that much different, especialy when you consider the rolled neck edges on the deluxe and statement about highly spec'd fret and nut work.
Hmmm more misgivings about that crowd and their tactics.
I'll wait for someone else to copy the design, make a load of disparaging remarks about Callaham. Then I'll buy that one.
Thats how they operate.

To clear up about the trems. 6 point trems don't gain anything by loosening the center screws. It's a bit of a myth. Just think about it. ALL the head of that screw does, is allow the screw to be driven into the bodywood. Their set to be slightly above the tremplate, to allow the trem maximum stability and movement. Screw em down too much and you'll raise the rear edge of the trem.
That is because the direction of force on the trem is not upwards, away from the body. It is across towards the nut. SO the tremplate rubs against the shank of the 6 screws, whether their sticking half inch out, or screwed all the way in.
The 2 point knife edge / pivot post system is different. A quite sharp point of the tremplate moves a minimal amount inside a groove on the post. You can't replicate that out of a vintage trem.
Before I went removing those center screws completely. I'd ask myself why do the 2 pivotpost designs use such bulky ugly looking screws?

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Well the reason I'd want to swap it would be that I like my bridges clamped down and blocked and the last time I had a 2-point bridge I couldn't get it to sit how I liked.

As this would be a Partsocaster I'd be pairing the body with a vintage spec neck so the strings getting too close to the edge of the fretbaord won't be an issue.

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How did it sound to you?

Adrian.

I had exactly the same issue with my custom classic when I decided to block that.
It all comes down to the height of the pivot posts.
What I did was take the springs and strings off the trem. Lightly push the tremplate onto the pivot posts and note how the tremplate moves as it slides into the pivot post. You'll see the front edge either lift or lower. If it lifts, screw the pivot post in, if it lowers, raise it a little.

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No no and no

I know what you're saying, but I like the brick to be completely flat against the body with the block inside being butted right up against the wood in the trem cavity - which in my experience you just can't do with the 2 point trems and still have a decent setup...

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How did it sound to you?

Guitars with the 2 point trems can be set up just as low as the 6 pointers! I wouldn't ruin a good American guitar just for the sake of having a 6 point tremolo. Just buy a Highway One to have in addition to this guitar ! Any time you drill into the wood, or remove major pieces of hardware from a guitar, you are killing it's value if you ever do decide to sell it. And since the AM Standard has poly finish, once you drill the new holes for the 6 point tremolo, they will always be there and cannot be easily disguised.

+ 100 Steve-oh-no

You loose your time and money if you do this mod

Guys it would be a partsocaster so no I wouldn't lose value because it would have none as a complete guitar anyway.

And in my experience the 2 point bridge can't be set up with the trem block butted up against the wood inside the rear cavity - it leaves a gap which isn't what I'm looking for.

Probably not going to go with an American Series body anyway as they seem over priced compared to some other options out there...

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How did it sound to you?