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Post subject: How on earth do u adjust a strat without causing a buzz!!?!?
Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 12:50 pm
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I know there are four ways to adjust :
truss rod
neck bender (4 screws on the rear)
saddle height adjuster
Spring adjustment

But even after trying several different P&C's , i am not able to get that "relaxed " feel and avoid the fret buzz or get a low action ..

Any suggestions? or videos?


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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 9:39 am
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Hi shivang23,

You could start by using the guide below. Make sure that everything else is setup properly, including the bridge. There are many models of Strats, some can get lower action than others, depending on the quality of the parts. Example, typically you won't be able to set up a stock Squier to have as low action as say an Amer Std, without more fret work to the Squier (and maybe not even then). :idea:

http://www.fender.com/support/stratocaster_setup_guide.php

Edit:
Please disregard the following excerpt from the setup guide (it is utter nonsense, don't know why it is there)

"For a vintage-style tremolo bridge, a great way to enhance its performance is to pull the bridge back flush with the body using the tremolo arm. Then loosen all six screws located at the front edge of the bridge plate, raising them so that they all measure approximately 1/16" (1.6 mm) above the top of the bridge plate. Then tighten the two outside screws back down until they're flush with the top of the bridge plate. The bridge will now pivot on the outside screws, leaving the four inside screws in place for bridge stability." <----- stupid!

There is not now, nor has there ever been, a six screw Fender Strat bridge with a pivot. The design dictates that the bridge plate slides up and down on the screws, it DOES NOT PIVOT. Just set the bridge normally. :)

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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 10:09 am
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So on a 6 point vintage tremolo all the screws should be set tighten ? Or a bit loosen ?


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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 10:09 am
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Quote:
There is not now, nor has there ever been, a six screw Fender Strat bridge with a pivot. The design dictates that the bridge plate slides up and down on the screws, it DOES NOT PIVOT.


Confused on this one...
If it doesn't pivot, or 'hinge' on the screws, how does it tilt up and down at the rear, but not in front?

Quote:
So on a 6 point vintage tremolo all the screws should be set tighten ? Or a bit loosen ?


I would tend to follow the guide, not sure why you wouldn't.


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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 10:20 am
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I think the wording of that excerpt to be inaccurate. The bridge does pivot, it pivots on the body for one thing. Look at the underside of the trem plate on a synchronised trem set to float.
Also if you look at the underside of the 6 mounting holes on the tremplate you'll see that they are chamfered, kind of creating another pivot point. Not the same way a 2 point trem pivots, the older one is far more durable.

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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 10:31 am
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Hi joaokorb,

The easiest way to set the bridge properly for whammy use (as good as it can be), is to loosen all of the strings and allow the front and back of the bridge to rest completely flush with the body. With the bridge flush to the body, tighten all six screws until they just touch the plate, not so tight that the plate lifts at the back, then back off all 6 screws about 1/8 turn. Then retune the strings, then set your bridge angle, string height, truss rod, etc. :)

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---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.


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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 10:48 am
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nikininja wrote:
I think the wording of that excerpt to be inaccurate....


Yeah, I thought so too. If you look at the two-point bridge you'll see a groove on each post that the knife edge of the bridge plate fits into, a true pivot. There is no such groove in screws of the six screw bridge, the knife edge of the bridge plate can just slide up and down the smooth shaft of the screws, no true pivot. There is a chamfered edge on the plate making a knife edge, but no receiving groove in the six screws for a pivot point. This is one reason that the six screw trem doesn't stay in tune as well as the two-point (the two-point isn't just cool, it has a purpose). If you tighten the outside two screws on the six screw too much, as the guide says, you'll just bind the trem and could even break the screws or split the body finish if you whammy hard. :idea:

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---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.


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