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Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 6:20 pm
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OK, now I understood the principle.

Anyway, SPECIAL THANKS TO YOU CERI, AND TO nikininja.


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Plenty of very fine players have their guitars set up by someone else. No shame in it. You've tried: now let someone else take over.


That's what I always did, and that's why I don't quite understand technical things...
But ~three months ago local luhtier here changed frets on my another strat. Did it not bad, how it was found later. But somehow he broke off the thread on truss rod! Didn't say anything. And I was thinking that strings action is too high because of new frets (but suspected, that something was wrong). And another "technician" guy started make chaotic adjustments of micro-tilt without right order of the procedures on another guitar. When I saw it, stopped this guitar torture...

Finding of the good luthier is more difficult than good instrument... Sometimes. ;)


Bye!


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Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:12 pm
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Jo you're right look at things and understand how they work.

If you can do that, then you can solve most things on your guitar.

Now how high is the action/string height? How bent is the neck from no truss rod relief?


These are important questions. If like me, you have no authorized repair center anywhere near you and didn't use a authorized repair person. You have to put these things right.

Hey by the way it wasn't just Ceri and I on this thread. ShockWarrior gave some great insight. :wink:

Were here to help mate. You need to look at the neck and make sure that it is right before you move onto the bridge. All the bridge can do is compensate for the neck. If there are problems in the neck, then you must cause problems in the bridge to overcome the neck problems.
It is better to have both set right.

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Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2010 6:49 am
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hi Jo,

youre' asking a couple questions- one how to set the bridge with an angle to bend strings up on the trem (with the 1/8th measure) and the other how to set the springs to get a flat against the body set up?

first- the issue of the two point bridge pivots the should be of equal hight to give the amount of clearance to bring the tail end of the trems bridge up to say 1/8". this must be done in most cases like the six screw ones with strings off. using the arm and shim of somthing hard that is 1/8' or what ever height you want -put it under the tail side of the trem and bring down the screws pivot so that -amy extra 'play' or movement of the trem is cut out -this may be a just to meet the bridge plate at the same height and a bit of tension against it but not too that the plate presses into the body.

with the springs lossening by turning out the claws screws evenl so that it is flat or parallel to the body cut and trem block tighten the screws back evenly with the springs on the outside and center holes of the block and the outer and certer hooks of the claw they should be strainght. when brought tighter evenly- the bridge will clamp just so the shim or refence 1/8" piece of whatever is gripped by the tail betweem the bridge and body.

now string the guitar and bring to pitch- (worry intonation latter)
if the freference shinm slips out then bring the claw screws evenly tighter into the body to bring it back down to 1/8" claming the reference- retune (down a semi-tone or few usually)

*if the guitar is not tuning or going out of tune evenly across the strings when you tighten the claw screws -then you are not turning them in evenly with each others tension ( ie the low strings are a whole step off but toward the 1st string is many off ...). using the claw screw that is the side most out of range of (ie the high 1st string example) tighten the side of the claw screw incrementall by small turns until the guitars tune is even (but abit out of tune -brought high by increased tension of the springs)

when this is done right - the springs should resonate in a similar pitch when scrapped with say a finger nail =and a quarter twist of each claw screw sould effect the tuning of the strings evenly.

using this method -one balances the trem- and it can be set to any height angle or dropped to the bod without crushing it.

not rocket science, tedious but one can do it with a good ear and some skill.


I hope this helps and makes some sense to you- it's a difficult to put every point into words and some have their own methods that differ.

I personally like the bride dropped to the body- but enjoy playing with tremelos that are set to dive bomb and bring the pitch higher on the return. with the bridge against the boy you can still use the trem for bending down- but you can't bring the pitch up in a sweep other than to the tuning of the guitar- this is preffered because I like stabily of the tuning for playing gigs or recording and don't have much use for sweeping up the pitch with tone arm I use it for vibrato or to warble harmonics/feedback into the pickups fromthe monitors.. for effect.

surf guitar style players would probably use the 8th inch height or whomever loves to do trem stuff- but the bridge set up - lets say if it's not a locking or floyd rose - that the bridge imo has strenghts and weakness to the design without modifying- tremolo heavy use is not one of them -again in my opinion. I do love the range of the strat for being capable compared to most guitars out there. It is definately the most important design innovation since it's concept was introduced 50 odd yrs ago.


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Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 5:15 am
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steevie wrote:
first- the issue of the two point bridge pivots the should be of equal height to give the amount of clearance to bring the tail end of the trems bridge up to say 1/8". this must be done in most cases like the six screw ones with strings off. using the arm and shim of somthing hard that is 1/8' or what ever height you want -put it under the tail side of the trem and bring down the screws pivot so that -amy extra 'play' or movement of the trem is cut out -this may be a just to meet the bridge plate at the same height and a bit of tension against it but not too that the plate presses into the body.


I've never had to adjust the bridge with any tension on it. In fact I think its a bad idea especially for new guys.

Quote:
with the springs loosening by turning out the claws screws even so that it is flat or parallel to the body cut and trem block tighten the screws back evenly with the springs on the outside and center holes of the block and the outer and certer hooks of the claw they should be straight. when brought tighter evenly- the bridge will clamp just so the shim or re-fence 1/8" piece of whatever is gripped by the tail between the bridge and body.


Nope a lot of work here. This isn't a Floyd Rose the pivot angle is set at the front screws. You can angle the claw all you like its counteracting against the string tension pressed up against those screw positions.

Quote:
now string the guitar and bring to pitch- (worry intonation latter)
if the reference shim slips out then bring the claw screws evenly tighter into the body to bring it back down to 1/8" claiming the reference- re-tune (down a semi-tone or few usually)


Well I would throw out the shim and use a 6" rule in 32nds. Once the strings and springs are on your not fighting this loose battle with a bridge it responds well to loosening and tightening the claw and tuning up. Which you have to do anyway.

Quote:
if the guitar is not tuning or going out of tune evenly across the strings when you tighten the claw screws -then you are not turning them in evenly with each others tension ( ie the low strings are a whole step off but toward the 1st string is many off ...). using the claw screw that is the side most out of range of (ie the high 1st string example) tighten the side of the claw screw incrementall by small turns until the guitars tune is even (but abit out of tune -brought high by increased tension of the springs)


Far out make it complicated.


Quote:
when this is done right - the springs should resonate in a similar pitch when scrapped with say a finger nail =and a quarter twist of each claw screw sould effect the tuning of the strings evenly.


Omg you know it says how to setup basically in the Fender manual don't you?

Quote:
using this method -one balances the trem- and it can be set to any height angle or dropped to the bod without crushing it.
not rocket science, tedious but one can do it with a good ear and some skill.


Probably need a degree for that one. Seriously you need to post a youtube video of this.

Quote:
I personally like the bride dropped to the body- but enjoy playing with tremolos that are set to dive bomb and bring the pitch higher on the return. with the bridge against the boy you can still use the trem for bending down- but you can't bring the pitch up in a sweep other than to the tuning of the guitar- this is preferred because I like stability of the tuning for playing gigs or recording and don't have much use for sweeping up the pitch with tone arm I use it for vibrato or to warble harmonics/feedback into the pickups from the monitors.. for effect.


Wait a sec you dont even like a floating trem?

Quote:
surf guitar style players would probably use the 8th inch height or whomever loves to do trem stuff- but the bridge set up - lets say if it's not a locking or floyd rose - that the bridge imo has strengths and weakness to the design without modifying- tremolo heavy use is not one of them -again in my opinion. I do love the range of the strat for being capable compared to most guitars out there. It is definitely the most important design innovation since it's concept was introduced 50 odd yrs ago.


Here is a setup video that covers spring string balance same applies to 2 point trems. Pretty simple (its one of the few tutorials on youtube pity).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umPF9uNIeXs

I'm glad the trem can do more than surf music. I have this video it's awesome:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGM-pfvePu8


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