It is very rare for relief to affect intonation. It's usually one extreme to another that does it. You should be ok.

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I'm kinda curious why you're asking. Do you not know how to adjust your intonation or do you just not want to?

If you don't know how to adjust the intonation you should not touch the truss rod.

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Tune Low, Play Hard & Floor it!

Wouldn't hurt to check it anyway after you're done.
-T

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-T

"You can't spend what you ain't got, you can't lose what you ain't never had" ~ McKinley Morganfield

Adjusting the neck relief will have a greater effect on your action than it will on intonation, but it could still effect intonation a little. Also keep in mind that anything that effects action will effect the space between the strings and the pickups, and the pickup height should be checked and adjusted as needed as well.

It will not hurt to check all your settings after making any adjustments.

You can just follow the Fender guide - basic setups are pretty easy, and there is no reason why you shouldn't learn how to do it yourself.

It won't

A tiny adjustment of .008" to the angle of the headstock will not affect the strings talk length to the slightest degree. Certainly nothing they you're going to notice on the intonation. All it will take is a 1/8th turn anticlockwise. I'd be suprised if you have to even retune the instrument if theres a bit of float to the bridge.
If you want to pay someone to do that, that's your choice. But you'll never learn how to do it if you keep paying someone else to do it.

Thats not how Fender guitars were designed and created. They were made for the normal everyday bloke to put right.

The balancing act of setup as you put it is no balancing act at all. If you start at the headstock and work down to the bridge doing things in order, theres no need for balance. Just work in this order. String change, truss adjust, trem set, lower pickups, action adjust, intonation adjust. Finally when all is done re-set the pickup heights.
It's really not hard if you're methodical. About half hours easy work when you're used to doing it that you pay someone up to what £40/$60 to do for you.

You can do it, if I can anyone can. All you need is a couple of philips head screwdrivers, a couple of allen keys, pair of wire cutters/pliers and a folded over playing card or a set of feeler gauges.

It's not the rocket science people make it out to be.

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It will be less than .008" difference.

Thing is mate it's well worth you exploring how to do these things. Some people (myself included) vary their setup on different guitars. My Tele and LP copy are both set to play slide as well as fretted styles. You have to get away from Fender's recommended spec for those setups. The Fender spec is more of a suit all/good starting point. It's nowhere near the all encompassing perfect setup.

You may end up realizing you prefer your neck relief at .014 because you hit the strings hard. Seeing your screen name I doubt that.

Start off with Fender spec by all means, there a good set of measurements. But as the weeks go by think about how certain adjustments would better suit you.

Theres a whole forum full of folk here to help you through it. Just take it a step at a time. Think over your results at each stage. Let us know how it all goes at every step. Use this thread if you like, or start a new one.

I can tell you know from experience. You shouldn't need much more than 1/8th of a turn anticlockwise to sort your truss rod. The important things to remember with truss adjustments.
1 a little bit at a time on a unfamiliar instrument.
2 NEVER force the screw, the neck or anything else.
Let the trussrod do the work, not the wood. If you meed excessive resistance stop and take the thing for a 2nd opinion. That is exactly what I'd do. I've been setting guitars up for 12 odd years now. There's no shame in asking others advice and opinions.

Were all happy to help mate.

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