hi guys, is it possible to replace the trem on the roadworn for an american one with a proper steel block?

The American vintage trem bridge with 2-7/32" string spacing should be a drop-on fit.

Arjay

_________________
"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY

Yes, and no. Yes, the Am bridge will fit (2-7/32 mounting and string spacing), but no it won't be a proper steel block. Even the best Am bridge blocks are leaded hot rolled, not the best for tone (EJ model, possible exception). You will get better saddles with the Am bridge though. On my RW 60s I put a Callaham Distressed model ($181 including shipping for complete assembly). The block is about the best out there, and the rest of the parts are top notch also. Very nice tone improvement!

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The MIA vintage trem bridge kit when bought as a stand-alone accessory includes a cold-rolled steel bridge much like the originals as well as the claw, trem arm, spring set, saddles, screws, allen wrench, and a vintage style string tree.

Arjay

_________________
"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY

I have heard that claim before, I can't find any verification for it, quite the opposite, you can find lots of experts that verify that the Fender blocks are NOT cold rolled, and they ARE leaded. Pre-CBS, may be cold rolled, but in the CBS era the blocks were changed to hot rolled leaded "steel" blocks. And at some point they started using epoxy mixed cast blocks which were even worse. Yet another one of the infamous CBS "cost cutting" measures. if you compare the Callaham block to a vintage '62 reissue block, you'll find that the Callaham is substantially heavier, more magnetically attractive, truer to the original Fenders, and gives more tone response when tapped with a piece of metal. The only Am block that is anywhere near the originals is on the EJ model Strat, the hole depth is at least correct.

The newer block on the Am Std is a good example of how bad the Am blocks are. The claim is "Copper infused Mass bridge block" for better tone and sustain. Really?!?!? BS!! Mine has been replaced with a Callaham, nice improvement. And take a close look at the real vintage blocks. Note the the holes for the strings are only about a quarter inch deep, whereas the newer RI block holes are more like an inch deep, not at all like the pre-CBS blocks.

In any case I've compared many Am blocks to the Callaham (including my '62 RI), and there is no comparison. I have changed many Am blocks to Callaham, for myself and others, and everyone noticed better tone and sustain. The Am Fender blocks are substantially inferior to Callaham, and other brands, which use much better steel.

I wonder if Mike Eldred would come clean about the Fender Blocks?

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---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

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Whatever.

Cite those "experts" by name and qualification, please.

All I know is, the MIA vintage blocks are steel (demonstrable via refrigerator magnet), they make an audible improvement over the pot-metal blocks, and they're used in the vintage-correct AVRI models.

There's nothing wrong with the Callaham blocks though -- I've installed them several times in clients' guitars. I just haven't actually used them in one of my own.

Arjay

_________________
"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY

Oh absolutely, the Am bridge will be an improvement over the RW bridge, in both block and saddles. The magnet test is at least a minimum requirement for the blocks, you can weed out the worst blocks that way. Also, the 6 bridge screws in the RW are horrible, the "aging" was done to very poor material screws and the non-threaded part has the threads poking through, hanging up on the plate.

As far as the experts, it is so hard to weed through the marketing hype and get a straight answer from everyone, and to determine who knows what, but some that I find interesting are;

"Several years ago, I made the mistake of telling a fellow builder who used to work for the Fender Custom Shop what material we use for the block. He instantly told Fender and they immediately "claimed" they use the same material. This is just false. Claims now of even using original tooling to make blocks are ludicrous and deceptive."
http://www.callahamguitars.com/blocks.htm

"Today many of the steel blocks being made are hot-rolled steel which contains lead. If you play that block next to a cold-rolled steel block that is almost identical in weight you will hear an improvement in clarity and definition over the hot-rolled steel block. "
http://www.detempleguitars.com/temp/faq3.php

"Another fact is that Fender knew that Callaham was starting to make sense to a lot of tone chasers who started complaining to them about it, which is why they only recently brought back some steel in their newer trem blocks and started pushing it heavily in their marketing, but those are just leaded steel and you know how soft and dull lead is! "
http://www.areyouexperienced.net/custom-69-Strat-Rosewood-White.htm

"Leo Fender designed the strings to pass through an accurately machined steel inertia block. This is one of the main factors that gives all original pre-CBS Strats® fitted with tremolo their clear, bell-like sustain. But, unique features of its original design have been compromised to keep production costs down. The Callaham steel blocks that Specialty Guitars sells are the most accurately machined blocks to original specs that I have seen (I have two originals on two of my Fenders). You will hear the difference. (I have 45 years' experience owning, playing and working on Fender Stratocasters®.)" - Peter Murdie, UK
http://www.specialtyguitars.com/callaham-strat.html

But, I suppose that the best way, and maybe the only way, is to grab the best Am block that you can find, and compare it to a Callaham or other brand that is cold rolled. I know that GF makes one that is claimed to be lead-free cold rolled steel, it is much cheaper than Callaham, but I don't know anyone who has one. I guess that even experts can disagree, but I can't seem to be able to find anything at all to dispute that Fender uses leaded hot rolled "steel" in their blocks.

_________________
---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.

GFS makes a very nice full-size trem block out of both solid steel and solid brass for less than 30 bucks. These are heavy and comparable in quality to any solid trem blocks out there...

check on ebay i bought a solid steel block there the guy also had brass ones the one i bought is full size not the cut down one that fender puts in sometimes sustain has improved much. no need to change out the whole bridge.

+1

thanks for the info guys, will look into the options, just had a graphite nut fitted and bigger strings, loving this thing!