Take a starcaster body and build up good stuff around it? I already have a starcaster and was looking to get something better. Then, the thought hit me I could get a good neck, the electronics I want and a new bridge and all that, and it could possibly turn out good. But then again, it could be a bomb. What kind of wood is that anyways.

I posted this in the starcaster section, but I was hoping to get some strat guru answers on this also.

Thanks for listening guys.

If you run a cost/benefit analysis of your intentions I think you'll find you're better off just buying a nice MIM or MIJ Strat outright.

JMO, YMMV

Arjay

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"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY

Hi There.

Let us first try for clarity, The STARCASTER is a 100.00 el cheapo guitar, I think you mean to say STRATOCASTER.

I will ASSUME you meant Stratocaster (Strat) and go on from there.
The first thing to do when starting a custom build is to first plan it out on paper, draw it out, what type of neck and the profile, type of frets, type of tuners and nut. What scale do you want. Then the body, hardtail or tremolo? Type of wood, type of hardware, color and type of paint and of course the type and amount of pick ups you want, all must be carefully planned out.

Once you get it set only then do you start to gather the parts and pieces.

You really want to take your time in the planning stage, and once you have it set, keep with it.
I see guys start a project with little to no planning, half way through the start to change things up and by the time there done (If it ever gets done, they have more parts left over then went into the project, and it always look poorly planned and carelessly thought out.

Once you start, take the time needed to do it right the first time (Don't get in a rush). Unless you have a painter, or you know how to paint, it's best to buy the body and neck painted, this will speed up the build time and get you over the worst hurdle.

So, get started on the plan, once you have what you want, show us here, and the group can make some helpful suggestion.
And if you get stuck, ask us.

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Marriage is like playing cards...

At first all you want are Hearts and Diamonds.

But in the end, all you really want is a Club and a Spade.

I agree wholeheartedly with all of the above, but DO IT.

Lots of fun and you'll learn a lot. Check the scale length on your Starcaster first, I think they may be shorter scale. If so you'll run into problems with a replacement neck.

Are Starcasters hardtailed guitars? If so, dare you to put a tele bridge on it.

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No no and no

I WAS referring to building up around the el cheapo "starcastor", just using the body as a base. Because I have one. That's the only reason. And no, they're not hardtails. They have tremelos that look similar to a real one, but I'm sure of lesser quality. As is the electrics.

My main reason for even considering is because there really isn't a model offered of what I want.

I like the smaller scale over a 25.5". So, I was thinking a mustang or jaguar neck. I don't want 3 pups. I probably would go with 2 buckers. Either the double type or I could do some smaller single coiled size. I like vintage frets. And I don't like any switches in the way of my strum pattern.

I have yet to find a guitar that fulfills all my wishes. And I don't know if there is such a thing. Actually, I think I could deal with a rickenbacker, but the sound is very distinct, and they cost more than what I want to spend. That's why I was thinking about building up from a starcaster body. I wasn't sure what wood they are. I'm guessing it's basswood, which I realize isn't the best, but then again, Ibanez uses it. Which I know, they're not fenders.

I used to own this cool little guitar that when I gave up my rock and roll days, I got rid of. It was in parts because a friend was going to refinish it for me and never did. But, it was a strat type body, cream, older and it was real thin sounding. So I put 2 duncan hot sticks in it and I found I liked it. It had a smaller scale neck and I really liked playing it. I kind of want to reproduce this guitar. I think it was a bullet, but I'm not sure. It might've been a mustang body. I don't totally remember and digital camers weren't ubuiquitous back then, so I don't have a pic. But anyways. That's my little story. What I listed above are my "wishes" in a guitar. Plus, I'd like it to be of good quality electrics and such. The only downfall would be what kind of tone would a "el cheapo" starcaster body give me. I'm not really sure if it would be terrible or not.

Who says basswood isn't the best?

Also you don't want to guess at scale length. It's more than just picking a neck of a certain scale length and plonking it on the body. You need to know what the original scale length of the guitar is and work only to that. Or you're going to end up moving the bridge to accomodate it.

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No no and no

I don't understand why it wouldn't work to just slap a different one on there. Something to do with intonation? But it's adjustable on the bridge. I figured the only thing that matters is the size of the routed out part and how many holes. (4 hole or 3) Can you guys explain that to me?

But thanks for the tip on the warmoth "conversion" necks.

Really, a Jaguar would meet all my requirements, I think, except for those switches just kill me. I don't know how I'd get around that. But the neck and scale on the jag I played last weekend was very suitable. And I THINK it had vintage frets. But it was also a 1963 model and more than I wanted to spend. Which is part of my problem.

Before you even consider anything.

I highly recommend buying a bok on building an electric guitar.
Martin Oakham's "Build your own Electric Guitar" includes full instructions and full size plans.
As posted above, understanding scale lenght and how it relates to intonation is critical. A guitar is not perfect it is set up as tempered tuning. Meaning that there are compromises as to where frets are located in relation to the vibrating string.

The book I suggest will explain as well as give you the mathematical ratio's and measurements needed to correctly assemble a guitar. Just bolting on any neck without concern for neck pitch, bridge to nut lenght etc..etc.. will give you a body screwed to a neck and not much else.
Also included is detailed info on finishes, woods, hardware selection, pickup selection and all the other minutia as nut preparation, fret dressing...

Save yourself some serious frustration and get a book on the project.
I'm speaking from experience having ruined a couple of guitars wrongly thinking "how hard can it be?" many years ago.

Good luck ask questions if in doubt, many on these forums are extremely knowledgable and worth their advice.
Post pics as the project is underway.

It's simply because you don't have the scope to move the saddles enough to compensate for the shorter 12th fret to nut distance. The distance from the saddle of the high E string to the 12th fret has to be pretty much identical.

The first thing you need to establish is that distance from the 12th fret to the nut on the neck the guitar has on it now. Double that is the scale length of the guitar.

The neckpocket size, and even more the number of neck bolts are infinitely easier to ammend than a off scale bridge position. So make sure you are clear about that before you do anything else. Don't rely on internet sites for the information, measure it yourself.
It will either be
324mm (strat/tele)
305mm (Jag's Mustangs)
288.5 (3/4size Musicmasters, Duosonics and some mustangs)
314.5mm (Cyclone)

As you can see, you can't assume anything when it comes to neck/bridge placement

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No no and no

This is really good info. Thanks guys. If I do go the route of building, I'll definitely get that book.

A guy I know did a starcaster upgrade and he told me the body was junky plywood and sounded not that good. I have no way to judge how well mine sounds because I've been playing it through that SP10 that comes with it in a package. I don't possess a good amp yet. I probably sound like a kid, but I'm actually older and am retreading. I got rid of all my good stuff and one time and now I'm getting back into it. I always kept my acoustic though. But it's funny, that Starcaster has a Strat "sound". But I know that those pups are junk and it wouldn't sound good playing with a band or something. Too tinny.

Anyways, this has been real helpful. I think I need to check out a mustang at a store and see if I like them. It does seem to fill many of my requirements. I could do without a tremolo, but that's not a deal breaker to me.

Bodywood doesn't make any difference to a guitars sound. Thats why the starcaster had the strat sound. It had strat hardware and layout.

Anyone want to take up that challenge from last week?

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No no and no

It is so easy to find good quality used fender strats, regardless of MIM or MIA,
for under $400 for an MIM or under $600 for an MIA.

Patience and selectivity are key.

Actually, I agree, I've played quite a few that were acceptable. Maybe I could always get the work on them that I want to be more like I want. I don't like the 3 pups. And I usually want a lower profiled fret. I guess those are my main issues. I do like a smaller scale, but it's not necessarily a deal breaker.

Dude, if it feels good do it! A lot of metal guitars use basswood like Ibanez as you mentioned and since you are going the bucker route, basswood will work out fine. Also, another poster mentioned it may be made out of 10 pieces... - Well Pete Townshend repeatedly smashed teles and re-glued time and again. Pete never lost any tone from those glue-hogs! Heck, BC Rich makes an acrylic guitar body! And many Danos were/are made from masonite and plywood - can you say Jimmy Page? Tone has more to do with the hands then it does the wood. Have fun with your Starcaster project!

And it's a good reason.

One of my favorite Strats is built out of an old 90's Squier I had kicking around. To date the body and it's black paint are the only things remaining from the original:



To be sure, starting from scratch it would have been more cost effective to either build from raw wood, or from aftermarket parts, or just to buy an appropriately spec'd guitar off the shelf. But since the chassis was there, why not go to work on it and construct a unique guitar to your own tastes? The scale length thing just adds to the fun and challenge of the job.

Be clear, if the body is constructed for a shorter scale length then a Warmoth conversion neck is NOT the one you need. Those are made to adjust a conventional Strat body to a shorter scale and will intonate wrong on a Starcaster body. You need a neck built to the same scale length as the Starcaster. Or work on the original neck to improve it, if there is indeed anything seriously wrong with it. Is there?

Have we conclusively established what that Starcaster scale length is yet, BTW?

Anyhow. Let the fun begin.

Good luck - C