I got a deal on some staggered tuners to upgrade my MIM . I have a question about the roman numberals , I understand the height and I think they are right but it goes in and out of tune

Perhaps you got a deal on them because their last owner discovered that they were crap......?

In 44 years of playing I've never felt the need for such over-hyped contrivances.

Arjay

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"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY

What is so over-hyped about having the string holes at different heights? What's the negative?

They don't do the job they were designed to do.
They just don't generate enough downforce on the E and B strings to do away with the string tree and keep a clear sounding open E and B. If you have to use a string tree anyway, may as well not waste your money one em.
Got em on my Custom Classic, Deluxe and Wilkinson ones on my MIM.
Non of em cut the mustard without a stringtree.

BlueFinger you may want to reinstall your stringtree if you've taken it off. I use a old strings ball end as a spacer that goes inbetween the tree and the face of the headstock. Simply put the screw through your tree, then place the ball end over the screw. Simple eh.
If you're experiencing problems directly with tuning, the best thing you can do is be attentive to the wraps around the tuner post. Don't basketweave them so they all crisscross each other. Keep the winds down to a minimum. I pull my string tight on locking tuners. Lock the tuner then tune up. Go through the low E at 6oclock (tuner hole pointing down, when the guitar is headstock pointing up) A@ 5oclock, D@ 4 oclock ETC. You must pull the string tight. It's important with locking tuners to keep winds to a absolute minimum. Their a complete waste of time if you don't, you'll get better performance out of a set of budget vintage style tuners.

Theres easier ways to stabilize tuning than shelling out £35-£70 on a set of tuners that don't do their job. You're far better off to file a standard butterfly string tree's edges than waste your dough.

Remember that other jem they came out with, that locking tuners improve your tone. The increased mass add's bass.
The bloke who dreamt that one up should be writing for Disney.

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No no and no

+1

You said a pageful, brutha!

Arjay

_________________
"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY

The numbers are just what machine it was made on nothing to do with which order to install them in.

Make sure you stretch in your guitar strings and re-tune over and over again till you can do a bend anywhere on the string and it doesn't fall out of tune.

If it doesn't have locking posts:
Wind the strings on in a string locking fashion (see below). This reduces the chance of the string slipping and going flat this way.

I'd still put several winds on the post 4 or so on the high E on a staggered tuner. If it was a full height about 6 is fine.
Then I try to keep about 3 to 4 winds on a the low E and aim somewhere in between for the B, G, D, A strings.