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Post subject: Setup for a Clapton Strat.
Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 8:29 pm
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My Clapton strat needs put back to the orginial setup, action, Relief etc.
the luthiers I have tried keep putting a standard strat setup on it which leaves the saddle adjustment screws sticking up like sharp knives.
Does anyone know the specs so I can get my strat back to it orginial (Clapton Factory) Settings?
Thanks
Clapton/Dave


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Post subject:
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:03 am
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Fender facotry specs are here: http://www.fender.com/support/stratocas ... _guide.php

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Post subject:
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:26 am
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Thanks
I have this information but I can't find the factory nut height at the first Fret.
Are they all the same? Mine was (adjusted) by someone attempting to do a setup.


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Post subject:
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:37 am
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stumpjd28 wrote:
Thanks
I have this information but I can't find the factory nut height at the first Fret.
Are they all the same? Mine was (adjusted) by someone attempting to do a setup.


How did they adjust it and why?

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Post subject: Nut
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 11:38 am
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The Tech who made the adustments to the setup. His comment was that it strings were too high at the nut.
However I just received an email from Fender Customer Care and they gave the the measurements as follows
Fender (electric) Strings 1-3 .020"
Strings 4-6 .020"
Tolerance (1-3) +0"/-.002"
(4-6) +.002"/-0"

Pretty technical but it is right on the money at .020 by my gage. so I am going to finish it with the rest of the factory specs provided

Thanks for you help
:D
Stumper


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Post subject:
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 5:58 pm
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Well mate, it's a new nut for you. You can always take some away, but you can't put it back.

Personally I find Fenders nut slots to be a bit too high, I tend to take mine down to .012 on the treble side, the bass at .018".

The easy way to measure and safeguard your nut slot cuts is to place a small straightedge across frets 1&2. Then at the side of the first fret use a feeler gauge to measure up from the board to the underside of your straightedge. Add .02" worth of feeler gauges to the existing number of feeler gauges you've used to measure with (if that is what you want it set at). Then put all those feeler gauges at the side of the nut to prevent you from cutting down too far.

When I first started cutting nuts thats how I did it, It never failed.

Also if you're looking for nut files I highly recommend these to start out with.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Norman-Bass-Six-String-Guitar-Nut-File-System-/300466944798?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item45f539bb1e

So insanely easy to use, you'll wonder what all the nut slot fuss is about. I paid out for Hosco files not long back. I wish I hadn't bothered.
Here's a example why.
[img][img]http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll296/nikininja_photo/compstratandtele.jpg[/img][/img]

Those two nut's are my own design shelf nuts. A bit like the Earvana, but far more accurate and less generic. One thing you do have to be when slotting them is accurate to 90degrees of the back of the nut slot. That is fairly easy to do with a 4mm wide Fender nut, or even a gibson nut. You slot them in situ, so you can accurately see how your slot needs to run. With my shelf design you have to slot the nut before you carve the underside radius of the shelf. Then you have to plan your breakpoints to the slots, because their all at different measurements from the first fret. Consequently you have to use a set square and run the file along it to achieve that 90degree to the back of the nut, slot. You just can't do it with traditional files.
Incidentally I was informed of a good source of legal mammoth ivory.
http://www.guitarpartsandmore.com/?nav=products&cat=1&sub=1
Haven't tried em yet. If you do, please report back to us. :wink:

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