Hi, I really am confused about my 60s reissue body.I have a neck on it right now that what I was told is a 7.25 radius meaning it is bowed a little bit and I realize 9.5 is a little flatter right?Well the 60s neck fits into another body which supports the 9.5 no problem however the others guitar neck does not fit.Which I wish it would.However, I have been looking for ways to remedy this?Last resort I will see if there is an replacement neck.It seems allparts is my best bet?I do not want one unfinished though.Anyone expirence this?Or own one?Wanting to sell one.Let me know I am interested.Thanks!

Hi freddyfingers82,

If I understand your post correctly, the neck fitting on a different body has nothing to do with the neck radius or neck bow. The neck pocket of the body has to be the right size to accept the 60s neck (2-3/16 inch wide?). The neck radius is the amount of curvature of the fret board from side to side, low on each side, higher in the middle. The 7.25 inch radius has more curve than the 9.5 inch radius. You mentioned "bow" in the neck, and that's different than the radius. The bow would be the amount of "relief" on the neck, or the curvature from top to bottom of the neck.

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Are all of these bodies and necks genuine Fender parts? If so, what's the country of origin on them?

In my experience with swapping things around, I've discovered that the MIM and MIA components are usually dead-nuts interchangeable, with no "hand massaging" required to mate a neck to the body.

However, on the MIJ/CIJ stuff, their necks seem to be a skosh wider at the heel which makes for an extremely snug fit (sometimes too snug) when bolted to an Ensenada or Corona body. Likewise, an American or Mexican neck frequently requires some shim work to interface it with a Japanese body.

HTH

Arjay

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"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY

Hi Fingers: Allparts are one option. Others include:

WD Music
MightyMite
Warmoth
Musikraft
USACG (not Fender licensed)
Sims Customs
Edenhaus

And a few more. Check their websites. The more you look, the more you'll learn.

Cheers - C

First off,thanks everyone.The proboblem the body i have is american and the neck socket on this looks damn near identical to any ive ever seen.But the original neck I have is slimmer than the one I want to use.Basically I have discovered the difference of radius makes the difference.You see I want to keep the original neck.However, I cant play on any neck anymore unless it is scalloped.Im not exactly a shredder but I feel at home there.So i wanted to use the other neck that I have that is scalloped but am afraid of messing it up.The other alternative would be taking it to the only luthier around but this guy would take any 1 - 2 hour job and say he'll be done in a month.It's really that bad.I cant be that long without a guitar!!!

Hi again freddy: but as mentioned above by shimmilou the radius of the fingerboard has nothing to do with how the neck fits into the neck pocket on the body.

I'm wondering whether you're getting the fingerboard radius mixed up with something else - but I'm not sure what.

We need more info. Could you measure the width of both neck heels at the 21st fret, very accurately? Tell us that and we'll take it from there. We're here to help.

Cheers - C

Radius doesn't affect that. It is simply the arc to which the fingerboard has been sanded, possibly you have the term radius mixed up with something else?



I am guessing what you need to look at is the width of the heel. If the fit is close you can remedy it with some simple (but very careful,) sanding, provided you are in anyway handy yourself.

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I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.

Hey Twelvebar: privately, I'm wondering whether this actually concerns the curved end of the neck heel, which might not be exactly matching the curve in the pocket.

If that is the case then we're into all sorts of nurdy discussion of "mouse ears" and such. Which won't be of much interest to Freddy: the important point for him to consider is that any adjustment to that curve needs to be made by someone who knows what they're doing, so that there is no risk of interfering with the neck's scale length in relation to the bridge.

I'm afraid if the tech who says it might take him some weeks is a good one and knows his stuff then you just have to go with him on it. Or learn to feel more comfortable on a neck without a scalloped fingerboard.

Cheers - C

Agreed. I would be loathe to actually try and diagnose the actual issue without the pieces in hand. I also wonder if he has a neck designed with a butt for different kind of neck pocket:
Strat necks have a curved butt to fit:

But other guitars like a tele (or many other Strat copies,) have a square butt to fit a pocket more like this:


which could lead to :


or even it not fitting at all.

Of coarse sometimes things seem like they don't fit because a lot of people aren't familiar with how they're supposed to fit. A friend swore his replacement neck didn't fit his guitar, I went over and it fit like a glove, but he thought the neck should slide in from the side, rather than snap in from the top like a jigsaw puzzle piece.

Unless comfortable with the work, I would also suggest taking it to someone with experience. And actually I would be much more concerned about adjusting the curve and knocking the neck out of true with the body, than shortening the scale length enough that it wouldn't intonate.

but there you go, two very real dangers of tackling it yourself without experience. Not everyone has had the chance to play around with cheap guitars they didn't care about potentially ruining.

Scalloped fretboards are uncharted territory for me. I've only played with one, and only for a few minutes in the store.

_________________
I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.