When my guitar is tuned properly and I use the tremolo even just a little, I'm out of tune badly. Then I can pull back on it and it gets close to tune again or tuned higher? I just put strings on it, the same way I always did it on my yamaha pacifica fake strat. I never had that problem.

I tried the pencil graphite at the nut, but its still the same. Is a professional setup called for here? Is it better to have blocked if you don't use it?

I take that back I didn't do it the same as I always did on my Pacifica. On the Pacifica I always took all the strings off at once. This time I changed them one at a time and tuned it before I went to the next string. Should I loosen them and let the bridge float back before I tune them or is that just a stupid thought.

The crux of your problem is that there is still disparity between the pulling tension of your strings and tremolo springs per your stylings where fortunately, your Yamaha doesn't have this issue. Something may be mechanically getting hung up also. A genuine pro setup will get you the personal synchronicity of your Yamaha's system. However and this is very important, you must show the tech how you use your tremolo in order for him/her to set the system accordingly.

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You dig?

did you stretch the strings?

I blocked it for now. Next time I have to get professional help I'll deal with it. I had the perfect piece of wood and it didn't affect the action at all. I'm such a beginner anyway it isn't critical at this point.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkj8p4Z3Rjg

It's not hard at all to get your non locking trem to work damn near as good as a locking one. I use a vintage bridge and do all sorts of whammy bar stuff while maintaining tune. Here's how I do it...
Get a pencil, a nail file and some Vaseline. Grind up a nice pile of pencil graphite and mix it up with Vaseline. Basically you're just making a graphite grease that you can buy off the shelf but I like making my own. Don"t ask... An old Carmex lip balm container works great for storing it in your guitar case...
Change your strings... Use a toothpick to apply a small amount of graphite to your bridge saddles and nut slots. You might want to have your local shop guy look at your nut slots to make sure they are cut correctly but odds are they are probably fine so just try the following first. Put a little graphite under the string tree on the headstock as well. If there are two string trees, remove the one that holds the d and g strings (lots of people do this).
Set up the guitar as explained on fenders site. Make sure there is an eighth of an inch gap between the body of the guitar and the underside of your bridge. This is important because when you use a non locking trem you need to be able to give it a flutter (slight, gentle up and down movement) to re-settle the strings. This is normal and you'll learn to do it unconsciously at the end of dive bombs and in between notes if you get good at it. I've found that even my high end double locking Ibanez guitars need this if you are scrutinizing tuning with a tuner after whammy bar acrobatics.
Basically everthing I'm going over here was already gone over by Eddie van Halen in the 70's before there were locking type trems. If you search the internet you will probably come across some articles elaborating on what I'm posting. Hope this gets you pointed in the right direction.

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Hi There.

There has been some very good advice given here, I would just like to add a couple things if I may.

When you tune, listen for any "popping" as you tune, if the string pops and jumps tuning, this is telling you you have a binding issue at the nut.
Either the slot is too narrow of it's just dry, use of pencil lead is a old trick, but it does wear off.
Nut lubes are available and the other posters home brew would work so does fret board oil.
If it still binds then you need to have a Luthier look at the nut, most likely they will need to open it up some. This takes special tools and a trained hand, best to pay a pro to have it done.

Another way to fix this is to get a Fender roller nut, they will not bind.
There are those who feel the roller nut changes the tone and feel of the guitar, I have not had any experience playing one to know, so i will leave that for other to comment on.

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I always change the strings on my Strats one at a time to avoid tuning problems so you did that part right.I also have all my trems flush to the body"decked" which holds tuning much better and I only use the dive function anyway.There could be any number of things causing your problem.There may be too many winds on your string posts-2 are usually enough and 3 at most.Your strings may be binding somewhere else, lube the nut slots(and check that they're not too tight)the string trees,the bridge and where the strings come through the bridge.It's also important to stretch the strings as you tune each one until each string holds its tuning after an agressive bend or whammy action.Make sure each string is holding its pitch before moving on to the next one.You may also need to fine tune the tension on your springs as they can be a source of trouble. If all these steps fail take your guitar to a dependable tech.BTW if you recently changed your string gauge or brand this can make a difference as different brands of the same gauge can have a difference in tension on your strings.

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'65 Strat,65 Mustang,65 Jaguar,4 more Strats,3 vintage Vox guitars,5 Vox amps,'69 Bassman with a '68 2-15 Bassman cab,36 guitars total-15asst'd amps total,2 vintage '60s Hammond organs & a myriad of effects-with a few rare vintage ones.